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Old 02-15-2010, 04:30 AM   #12211
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FDR changes make no difference from 6.4 to 7.2.

The motor is around 55c at the end of the 5 minute run.

The brakes are weak at the beginning, middle and end of the race.

LOL, of course the faster I am going, the longer it takes to stop.
temps are very cool. teh speed and power from such a setup, and everyone wants to know how hot i am. and they cant believe its so cool.

with the brakes, i have only 50 on the speedy, and 80 on the radio.
braking doesnt seem to be a problem. but i do notice its not as good at the end as at the start of the race. but you certainly do need the brakes working with such speed.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:23 AM   #12212
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Tim, just out of interest, let us know also if the brakes feel better on dual drive too, it might give a better idea for everyone what is going on with your setup.

Thanks.

No, sorry if I didnt explain myself properly ... The brakes could feel like there is nothing at low speed as well as high speed. Hope that clarifys what im trying to explain/ask
Dual Drive isn't an option as I need to run it sensored only to get the benefit of v203.

I don't use brakes at low speed as the car setup gets me round the corners without coming to a standstill. I only need brakes from high speed to bring me to cornering speed, which is usually a very quick stab of the brakes when using the SPX.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:35 AM   #12213
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Hi,

I dug out my RS Pro to put into my TC yesterday as my SPX just isn't quick enough to keep up.

I loaded 203 onto it and sure enough, the car was a missile but I'm having to brake about 5 metres before the corner in order to get into the apex, during which time I'm losing about 3 metres to the cars behind me.

Here's a video of the race in question:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I'm the orange TQ car and when at race speed, I was hitting the brakes just under the furthest right basket ball hoop.

I know the problem isn't the motor (Novak Ballistic 13.5) because the SPX would stop the car almost instantly on the lowest brake profile.

I tried resetting the radio throttle position, I tried as someone else suggested, putting the speedo into BL-F/R with max reverse, applying the settings and then changing it back to BL-FW. But there was no change.

Any suggestions for getting good brakes? Could it be a hardware problem?

- Tim.
i have been watching the video. i dont have any probs with brakes with the Tekin. i have stated previously i have it turned down even. the longer you went on the more you got used to the power on that short straight.
where i see you had problems, is about half way down it, the car just accelled really hard, and probbly too hard that close to the corner. other parts of the track , look like you arent getting close to the turbo cutting in, but this certain area its cutting in when you dont want it to. this is making it hard to pull up. if you are happy with the rest of the track with performace, if you have the control over the throttle, try in just that part of the track to not pull the trigger to full throttle, then the turbo will not cut in, and the boost will be working only. i think it is more the turbo cutting in that is making you over shoot. just a visual description of what i can see.
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:45 AM   #12214
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@thancock: i am still experiencing the same problems with the brakes. have re-calibrated transmitter radio etc lots of times. nothing will work.

it shouldn't matter how fast i am going on the straight or when the bloody turbo kicks in or not. brakes are brakes. and when i hit full brakes i want the car to actually brake as much as it possible can or as much as i let it with the settings on the esc. but almost no brakes at all is just aweful. never had this kind of problems with LRP speedos. i will try one more time this weekend on our track to reset the radio (sanwa m11x), bind the radio again, bind the receiver and then see what happens. if it is still not working i will switch to the lrp sxx ss.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:02 AM   #12215
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Do you know if there are any Tekin team drivers in your areas ?

If you were drop an email to Randy Pike he may be able to see who is close by that might have the opportunity to take a look at what the car is doing on the track and perhaps your set ups

[email protected]

I helped several guys in our club that were also having some issues with brakes and in most cases it is generally something minor that needs doing or adjusting.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:23 AM   #12216
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@pattonjnr

The turbo wasn't turned on because the boost provided more than enough acceleration to the next corner. The only place I needed to use brakes was the hairpin at the right of the screen. GM, SPX and SXX users were able to apply the brakes about 2 metres out from the apex, I had to hit the brakes just under the basket ball hoop. You can see in the first few laps that I overshoot the apex while I am figuring out when I need to start braking.

vitomon is correct in his assertion, it shouldn't matter how the car is accelerating or the speed that it is travelling, when I ask for brakes, I expect a similar level of stopping power to what I have been getting from the SPX and what others get from their speedos.

@b4james

Unfortunately, there are no Tekin team drivers of any note in the area, hence why I am hoping someone here may have an idea of what to try next.

- Tim.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:36 AM   #12217
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@pattonjnr

The turbo wasn't turned on because the boost provided more than enough acceleration to the next corner. The only place I needed to use brakes was the hairpin at the right of the screen. GM, SPX and SXX users were able to apply the brakes about 2 metres out from the apex, I had to hit the brakes just under the basket ball hoop. You can see in the first few laps that I overshoot the apex while I am figuring out when I need to start braking.

vitomon is correct in his assertion, it shouldn't matter how the car is accelerating or the speed that it is travelling, when I ask for brakes, I expect a similar level of stopping power to what I have been getting from the SPX and what others get from their speedos.

@b4james

Unfortunately, there are no Tekin team drivers of any note in the area, hence why I am hoping someone here may have an idea of what to try next.

- Tim.
My suggestion before was that you try to calibrate your ESC with the EPA on brakes down to 90% and then crank it up to 100%. It seems it works most of the time, but I suppose you tried this already (though you didn't say it explicitly)?
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:52 AM   #12218
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Ok first time i've had RS issues since running them over a year ago. Loaded the 203 finally into my T4 and B44. Buggy had rip and fast, but then it would randomly turn off throttle but still have steering. If you waited about 15 seconds, then throttle came back on. Next tried T4, pull the trigger and after about a second delay car starts to move then instantly ballooned the tires. Almost like a delayed switch, with on and off. So had the truck RS reflashed by a friend at the track, and seemed good on the bench. Go out to try it and runs then randomly loses throttle but has steering. Wait about 15 seconds, throttle turns back on again. At this point I'm mad, not sure if its my control, or something in common. After dealing with this for multiple qualifiers and changing things, still does it on both. So talk to the guys at the track, one guy had the same issue, other guy had the delayed throttle issue, other guy had something else, car feels great on the bench, once on the ground motor just makes a grinding sound and doesn't move. Turns out, the one guy had to ditch his airtronics servo to a Futaba and no issues since. Other guy was on the phone with Randy and narrowed it down to his servo, KO Propo. He changed to a Futaba and never had issues sense. That has me worried now since I run KO just like the one guy. Well I was smart for my last rounds of mains, reflashed back to version 200 and no issues with either car.

Randy, is there a known issue with v203 and certain servos that maybe give off interference thru the receiver wire causing the RS to shutdown or something with high power draw servos? For now, sticking with v200 until this gets figured out, painful to watch a B44 land upside down mid air over a triple because had no throttle mid air. Dooh!
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:00 AM   #12219
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Ok first time i've had RS issues since running them over a year ago. Loaded the 203 finally into my T4 and B44. Buggy had rip and fast, but then it would randomly turn off throttle but still have steering. If you waited about 15 seconds, then throttle came back on. Next tried T4, pull the trigger and after about a second delay car starts to move then instantly ballooned the tires. Almost like a delayed switch, with on and off. So had the truck RS reflashed by a friend at the track, and seemed good on the bench. Go out to try it and runs then randomly loses throttle but has steering. Wait about 15 seconds, throttle turns back on again. At this point I'm mad, not sure if its my control, or something in common. After dealing with this for multiple qualifiers and changing things, still does it on both. So talk to the guys at the track, one guy had the same issue, other guy had the delayed throttle issue, other guy had something else, car feels great on the bench, once on the ground motor just makes a grinding sound and doesn't move. Turns out, the one guy had to ditch his airtronics servo to a Futaba and no issues since. Other guy was on the phone with Randy and narrowed it down to his servo, KO Propo. He changed to a Futaba and never had issues sense. That has me worried now since I run KO just like the one guy. Well I was smart for my last rounds of mains, reflashed back to version 200 and no issues with either car.

Randy, is there a known issue with v203 and certain servos that maybe give off interference thru the receiver wire causing the RS to shutdown or something with high power draw servos? For now, sticking with v200 until this gets figured out, painful to watch a B44 land upside down mid air over a triple because had no throttle mid air. Dooh!
Its recommended to run a receiver cap with v203, I had a few issues where my receiver would go into failsafe mode, I added a cap and no more problems.
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:05 AM   #12220
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Its recommended to run a receiver cap with v203, I had a few issues where my receiver would go into failsafe mode, I added a cap and no more problems.
who said it was recommended to run a receiver cap,it is recommended to use a booster for 1s.
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:47 AM   #12221
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edit: starting new topic
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:16 AM   #12222
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Originally Posted by B4james View Post
Do you know if there are any Tekin team drivers in your areas ?

If you were drop an email to Randy Pike he may be able to see who is close by that might have the opportunity to take a look at what the car is doing on the track and perhaps your set ups

[email protected]

I helped several guys in our club that were also having some issues with brakes and in most cases it is generally something minor that needs doing or adjusting.
It's simply that the Speedo doesn't have the same aggression in the braking compared to the LRP/GM speedo's
nobody I know that runs tekin (whether it's in TC, off-road, pan car or whatever) has brakes as "sharp" as an LRP/GM at high speed (low speed is ok)

We've not found a way to improve them, although I'm thinking maybe use an additional power cap as this helped with the speed passion speedo's when they had were weak on the brakes (had to set to 100% or you basically had nothing)
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:19 AM   #12223
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Callin all Tekin Specialtist??? her is my set up...i have a problem when i give a small amount of throttle i have a squealing sound from my esc...i changed the sensor wire..i have a digital servo..novak 17.5 ball..drag break 20...rev off...break 90...neutral 10...motor bl-fw..throttle 5...voltage 2...push off...timinmg 50...turbo 10..turbo delay 0.1...end rpm 7000...start rpm 2437...turbo ramp 3.0...spur 100...pinion 41...an im driving a photon...help fellas i got to get rid of the squeal!!!
I had the same problem with my novak motor that I just figured out this week. Advance the timing on the motor one notch and make sure the 3 screws on the endbell holding the sensor in place are tight. This cured mine.
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:25 AM   #12224
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It's simply that the Speedo doesn't have the same aggression in the braking compared to the LRP/GM speedo's
nobody I know that runs tekin (whether it's in TC, off-road, pan car or whatever) has brakes as "sharp" as an LRP/GM at high speed (low speed is ok)

We've not found a way to improve them, although I'm thinking maybe use an additional power cap as this helped with the speed passion speedo's when they had were weak on the brakes (had to set to 100% or you basically had nothing)
thats unusual, never heard of that before, however it has its merits behind not overheating the esc.
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:37 AM   #12225
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It's simply that the Speedo doesn't have the same aggression in the braking compared to the LRP/GM speedo's
nobody I know that runs tekin (whether it's in TC, off-road, pan car or whatever) has brakes as "sharp" as an LRP/GM at high speed (low speed is ok)

We've not found a way to improve them, although I'm thinking maybe use an additional power cap as this helped with the speed passion speedo's when they had were weak on the brakes (had to set to 100% or you basically had nothing)
I think you may be onto something here.

I have heard of RS Pro mod setups commonly use 2 caps, and with 13.5 laptimes being not too far behind mod laptimes in todays age with powerful lipos, it is a distinct possability that 13.5 now shares the same need as a mod motor in some situations where you are geared for speed...

I can see no harm in trying this if you have a spare one to hand Tim!

It would also make sense that not everyone has the problem too, as they may have an additional cap installed to cure the problem.
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