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Old 02-10-2010, 09:11 PM   #12016
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There is an old saying .... When all else fails read the instructions"

The LED sequence is explained in the instruction sheet.

"If LEDs 1,3 and 5 are flickering, it indicates that Voltage Cutoff may be set above battery pack voltage. Check that cutoff is cor-rectly set and that battery is fully charged. Motor or connections to motor are bad. Speed control not plugged into throttle channel on receiver, or receiver plug connection is bad"

Exactly as Randy said
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:40 PM   #12017
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There is an old saying .... When all else fails read the instructions"
You got that right. I had the exact same problem after fiddling with some settings just before a heat. Unfortunately, I didn't have the instructions with me. I ran over to another driver and he grabbed the instructions and came over. He saw that the lights meant LVC so I plugged it up to the computer and found the problem. I had set it to 3 thinking that was three volts. Of course, that's actually 3s. A quick change and I was back in the race.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:19 AM   #12018
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great job fellas....when u dont have the instructions...use your internet...low voltage was the problem...good lookin guys..but the clog problem is still in tack...my esc makes a loud screaching sound at low rpm....blip the throttle an its fine....ok fellas swing away???
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:07 AM   #12019
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great job fellas....when u dont have the instructions...use your internet...low voltage was the problem...good lookin guys..but the clog problem is still in tack...my esc makes a loud screaching sound at low rpm....blip the throttle an its fine....ok fellas swing away???
Well answer my other questions first. I need to know what software? What your settings are? What motor you're using? What wind? Where is the motor timing set? Etc..
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:25 AM   #12020
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The Zero mark in the center has 8 degrees built into it and each notch after that is 8 degrees as well.

EA
Thanks Eric! I had seen the post a few pages back but wanted clarification as i had been told something different by someone at the track.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:33 AM   #12021
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Running basically Schreffler's 13.5 setup with a Duo1 17.5, 6.56 FDR, the Novak Sentry data logger showed it was getting up to 32,250 RPM on a 90 ft x 40 ft carpet track (and that was with a chicane entering the straight!) Crazy fast!
Cheers.

Anyone got any figures for 10.5 and 13.5?
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:16 AM   #12022
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great job fellas....when u dont have the instructions...use your internet...low voltage was the problem...good lookin guys..but the clog problem is still in tack...my esc makes a loud screaching sound at low rpm....blip the throttle an its fine....ok fellas swing away???
Also change your sensor wire.
I got a new sensor wire with one of my motors and it had the same problem. I changed it and the problem was solved.
I have several of them now to have spares.

That the GTB has no problem with the sensor wire is because it only uses to see were the rotor is and goes straight over to sensorless.
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:38 AM   #12023
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well I jumped on the band wagon....had to do it...got me a tekin now


I wanna go fast
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:48 AM   #12024
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I wanna go fast
You will
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:20 AM   #12025
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Cheers.

Anyone got any figures for 10.5 and 13.5?
Damien, i've got some figures from a recent session at maritime if you're interested (10.5 and 13.5)
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:27 AM   #12026
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
Also change your sensor wire.
I got a new sensor wire with one of my motors and it had the same problem. I changed it and the problem was solved.
I have several of them now to have spares.

That the GTB has no problem with the sensor wire is because it only uses to see were the rotor is and goes straight over to sensorless.
That's true, i had oldest SS and
Still working and never fail until now,
Run Every week since the very first time
SS come out never stop running,
and Still Excellent!,
i would like to Thanks to NOVAK USA.
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:42 AM   #12027
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That's true, i had oldest SS and
Still working and never fail until now,
Run Every week since the very first time
SS come out never stop running,
and Still Excellent!,
i would like to Thanks to NOVAK USA.
The new speedo's all need a good sensor wire.
The Speedpassion sensor wire has given me a lot of trouble. With the LRP sensor wire and the Tekin sensor wire I have never got any problems.
With a bad sensor wire you can run a LRP tc but not the LRP SPX and SXX ss. Also the mamba, the Advanced and other speedo's that run completely sensord will give problems.
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:20 AM   #12028
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
The new speedo's all need a good sensor wire.
The Speedpassion sensor wire has given me a lot of trouble. With the LRP sensor wire and the Tekin sensor wire I have never got any problems.
With a bad sensor wire you can run a LRP tc but not the LRP SPX and SXX ss. Also the mamba, the Advanced and other speedo's that run completely sensord will give problems.
I love how the Tekin flashes those two little LED's when you roll the car on the table, so you can know if the sensor is working properly. Helps diagnose problems!
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:48 AM   #12029
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Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Damien, i've got some figures from a recent session at maritime if you're interested (10.5 and 13.5)
Anything would be usefull.

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Old 02-11-2010, 11:54 AM   #12030
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Originally Posted by The Hawaiian View Post
well I jumped on the band wagon....had to do it...got me a tekin now


I wanna go fast
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
You will
but he still wont beat me
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