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Old 02-07-2010, 06:40 PM   #11881
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Originally Posted by cannon View Post
Clinton,

try the change that I suggested last night.

It is strange as you seem to be the only one with brake issues with the new software. Everyone else has too much brake and has turned them down
I found issues when running earlier software versions but since 203 and running light FDR's the brakes are great.

Initially I thought the brakes were weak but after having someone track level watching my car it was actually sliding from the wheels being locked up. Since then I have actually dialled my brakes back 10% and the car is now excellent.

Another thing I think we forget is that we are now pulling up a lot more entry speed than some of the other cars on the track
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:04 PM   #11882
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Originally Posted by HB Moose;
Thats like putting a 400 hp motor in a prius.
We currantly run a 13 turn hobbywing here in
oz

I know some here in oz have tried it with v200
hopfully they will pop in
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:10 PM   #11883
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
I had a race today.
It didn't went well for my car but the Tekin has proven to be incredible fast.

I started with some practice laps and I was following a 5,5T lipo on the straight if I was also driving a 5,5T.
Just incredible.
Than came the nr 1 of the stock class and he had a SXX ss.
He was telling me how he followed the mod drivers and when I told hem that I did the same we drove against each other.
I had a great acceleration and a great top speed. My car accelerated in one line.
It was just incredible.
He was complaining about that he came to short in the infield compared to the SPX but when he saw my car he was impressed.
The car was way to fast for me.
I started with this setup.
Boost 55
Turbo 10
Turbo ramp 3
Turbo delay 0
Start RPM 5600
End RPM 22500
Throttle 5
Brake 90%
Motor LRP X11 10,5T

Later I changed the setup because I was more off the track than on the track.
I changed the Turbo ramp to 2 and the boost to 45.
Top speed was almost the same but the car was easier to drive. It was smoother in the infield.
Later I changed to 50 Boost and Start RPM 5100 and end RPM 17000.
The car was a bit more aggressive but still very good to drive.
I qualified the 3th qualification first in the B.
This was because of problems with my car.
I broke several car parts and later I had to use Xray parts and didn't had any down stops in the last final.
In the first final I made a mistake and I was last but I drove to the first place if the others were standing still. I was leading the race and I ht the inside of the wall. After that my car was a wreak and I didn't finish the race.
The second run I was leading the race and after 1 lap my car broke down.
It couldn't handle the Tekin power i think.
The last race I was using spare parts of an Xray because I was running out of TOP parts.
I finished the last final with losing 3 laps because of a loose shock.
The mounted back and even with no downs stops I was one of the fastest. I had problems with keeping my car on the track but every body came to me and my club member that our cars were incredible fast.

The SXX ss wasn't the big thing today.
He was having problems with driving a way. His speedo made a noise if it couldn't find a sensor.
Even he was more impressed of the Tekin than the SXX ss.

With the first setup the motor became above the 180F and with the second it was lower but with the last it was again a bit higher but every body is driving there with there LRP X11 against the 200F
The motor runs than better.
One driver stops straight away after he is finished because he is running on the edge of what the motor can handle.
Hi mikky32,

Thanks for your setup info.

May I ask what FDR/Rollout are you using for your setup? What is the size of the track and straight away? Many thanks!
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:23 PM   #11884
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How does the lipo cutoff work on this? I need to make sure and get it set up right. Do you choose the volts or is it set by cell?
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:28 PM   #11885
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How does the lipo cutoff work on this? I need to make sure and get it set up right. Do you choose the volts or is it set by cell?
With just the ESC, you can choose cutoff based on #of cells. If you have hotwire (computer interface), you can custom set voltage cutoff.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:39 PM   #11886
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Awesome, I havent got it yet.. but I am going to love this thing.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:40 PM   #11887
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i ran my rs pro in TC 17.5 today for the first time (been running a tc spec)
all i can say is wow!!
i got way more than i can handle
i have a novak 17.5 set to center (moved it to the center point of its movement)
geared to 6.4 fdr
boost 53
2900ish -9500ish
turbo 7
delay .2
ramp 2
0% expo in radio
it was wild to drive.
out track is 96 x 55 one long strait and 2 80' arcs.
motor came off at 160 2 consective heats
thow my driving was horrable!
hardly ran with over 25% throttle except fopr those three areas and still never pullet it back all the way for more than .3 sec on the strait(guessing)

the throttle didnt feel fluid. at any given throttle it kept excelerating
any suggestions to improve throttle response
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:55 PM   #11888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
i ran my rs pro in TC 17.5 today for the first time (been running a tc spec)
all i can say is wow!!
i got way more than i can handle
i have a novak 17.5 set to center (moved it to the center point of its movement)
geared to 6.4 fdr
boost 53
2900ish -9500ish
turbo 7
delay .2
ramp 2
0% expo in radio
it was wild to drive.
out track is 96 x 55 one long strait and 2 80' arcs.
motor came off at 160 2 consective heats
thow my driving was horrable!
hardly ran with over 25% throttle except fopr those three areas and still never pullet it back all the way for more than .3 sec on the strait(guessing)

the throttle didnt feel fluid. at any given throttle it kept excelerating
any suggestions to improve throttle response
A couple of things to try..........Make the rpm spread a little bigger and raise the start to around 4500. Maybe 4500 - 15,000 or so. This will allow the timing to be added over a wider range which should smooth it out some and it will start coming in a little later out of the corner. Other thing is throttle profile. If you have it set on 3,4 or 5 you might find 1 or 2 more infield freindly. Like adding throttle expo in your radio.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:03 PM   #11889
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Anyone here has a Set up for RC Addict in Thailand?
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:13 PM   #11890
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Originally Posted by Official View Post
Anyone here has a Set up for RC Addict in Thailand?
Not sure if a lot of Tekins have been on that track yet.

Look for the Australians when at the track. A lot of them are using Tekins so they may have a few ideas after practice
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:15 PM   #11891
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Originally Posted by SteveL View Post
A couple of things to try..........Make the rpm spread a little bigger and raise the start to around 4500. Maybe 4500 - 15,000 or so. This will allow the timing to be added over a wider range which should smooth it out some and it will start coming in a little later out of the corner. Other thing is throttle profile. If you have it set on 3,4 or 5 you might find 1 or 2 more infield freindly. Like adding throttle expo in your radio.
Depending on the track layout, you might want to consider using a longer turbo delay. Using a value of .2 feels like you're using the turbo boost almost instantaneously. +1 on the larger RPM spread and using a less aggressive throttle profile, since it will tame the throttle response. You could also experiment with using a little drag brake, but watch the motor temps while you test different drage brake settings.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:38 PM   #11892
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Originally Posted by hardmankam View Post
Hi mikky32,

Thanks for your setup info.

May I ask what FDR/Rollout are you using for your setup? What is the size of the track and straight away? Many thanks!
+1
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:39 PM   #11893
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Is anyone who got problem as me
My Rs-PRO with 203 software with sensorless motor after 10 packs runing than stop working
I am trying to re-calibration it but there are not any sound during the calibration, all the LED lights are normal without any error lights. now, The ESC is working fine but motor just do not runing at all. ESC seems dead already???
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Last edited by Jameschen; 02-08-2010 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:04 AM   #11894
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I experienced something with my RS in a 2wd buggy today that stumped me.

Over some of the larger jumps on our track, if I flat landed it or cased the jump, the esc lost power or worse began this awful cog, screech noise. Made sense to me as I expected the sensor wire was bouncing loose and defaulting to dual mode instead of sensored in 203 or was only partially unplugging and was having all kinds of problems reading the sensors. The part that stumped me was when I tried to replicate the problem on the bench. If I ran the car with the sensor plugged in securely, all is well on the bench. If I turned it all off, unplugged the sensor wire, and then turned it back on, esc functioned properly, except there was the obvious reduction i power. The esc ran smooth however with no noises or cogging. If I plugged the sensor wire in with everything still on after a second of on and off throttle, the esc transitioned back into sensored, just like I expected.The problem came when the esc was turned on with the sensor wire plugged in, and then it became unplugged. Once unplugged, it did not transition to dual mode, it just screeched and cogged regardless of how many on/off throttle sequences I gave it (hoping to jump it back into sensored mode). Even when I plugged it back in without turning it on and off it still stayed i "screech mode".

I tried this with a couple sensor wires thinking it might just be an intermittently bad wire, but same results. Anyone else experience this?
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:37 AM   #11895
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I experienced something with my RS in a 2wd buggy today that stumped me.

Over some of the larger jumps on our track, if I flat landed it or cased the jump, the esc lost power or worse began this awful cog, screech noise. Made sense to me as I expected the sensor wire was bouncing loose and defaulting to dual mode instead of sensored in 203 or was only partially unplugging and was having all kinds of problems reading the sensors. The part that stumped me was when I tried to replicate the problem on the bench. If I ran the car with the sensor plugged in securely, all is well on the bench. If I turned it all off, unplugged the sensor wire, and then turned it back on, esc functioned properly, except there was the obvious reduction i power. The esc ran smooth however with no noises or cogging. If I plugged the sensor wire in with everything still on after a second of on and off throttle, the esc transitioned back into sensored, just like I expected.The problem came when the esc was turned on with the sensor wire plugged in, and then it became unplugged. Once unplugged, it did not transition to dual mode, it just screeched and cogged regardless of how many on/off throttle sequences I gave it (hoping to jump it back into sensored mode). Even when I plugged it back in without turning it on and off it still stayed i "screech mode".

I tried this with a couple sensor wires thinking it might just be an intermittently bad wire, but same results. Anyone else experience this?
Yesterday i had the exact same thing happening to me in a race. After i crashed my electronics were dead. When i went back to the pits and turned it on it was fine again. In the final my car was running fine for 3 minutes or so and then it just dropped dead on the track again. When i pulled the throttle a few times there were some screeching noises and it just stutterd and sometimes it went forwards again till a few feet and dropped dead again. I never had this before. AFter checking on the bench again i checked the sensors and they seemd to be fine (all three lid up one after each other when turning the wheel. When pulling the throttle and pulling some wires of the sensor i sometimes could reproduce that same screeching noise. It seems that if it screeching it doesn't read a sensor anymore but it doesn't go into sensorles mode. Maybe cause it is still reading 2 sensors or something. I don't know if that is correct but at least it seems like that. Not totally sure what happend there. I will dismantle the electronics and check everything and resolder everything and replace the sensore wire as well just to be sure.

Last edited by 2wdrive; 02-08-2010 at 12:48 AM.
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