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Old 02-02-2010, 11:56 AM   #11641
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
The theoretical way to do it is quite clear and very simple. Get the right timing at the right RPM. The devil is in the detail. We don't have any info of actual RPM and this is the primary input in the setup procedure. That's where things like the datalogger can help.
Let's look at the first part of that:

"The theoretical way to do it is quite clear and very simple. Get the right timing at the right RPM."

Yes absolutely right. But now let's look at the second part.

"We don't have any info of actual RPM and this is the primary input in the setup procedure. That's where things like the datalogger can help."

Well yes, the data logger can tell you what RPM the motors is turning at various points on the track but how does that help you with the first part? Do you know what the right amount of timing is for every rpm level? What is really needed to fully optimize a ramped timing system is not so much a data logger, but a dyno. Specifically, one that dynos the motor/speedo combo.

And even with that, how will you fine tune with a non-laptop, push button speedo? They do the exact same things, they just aren't as adjustable.

I really think you are way too worried about burning stuff up. 203 actually seems easier on motors than previous versions and other speedos.
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:56 AM   #11642
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
3. Your suggestion assumes you stumble across a baseline setup that works for you at your track nad you don't burn anything up trying it the first time, then that you guess right what needs to be changed (and again you don't burn anything up), then that you have a computer with you and that you can do all that in 20 minutes of racing a week.

I confess, you're way better than me.

The theoretical way to do it is quite clear and very simple. Get the right timing at the right RPM. The devil is in the detail. We don't have any info of actual RPM and this is the primary input in the setup procedure. That's where things like the datalogger can help.

But the most disappointing part is that we need to solve a problem by guessing because we don't have all the data we need to use reason and logic. This is perhaps one of the most effective ways to discourage people to even try.

Dude, enjoy the C main, that's all I have to say. Your argument makes no sense, the software is not super sensitive waiting to explode. My first day out with it, I sent settings all over the place, ran the car for a minute or two and checked temps, when you have it WRONG, the car feels wrong, so chances are you won't even stick with it. In the end most people are running 1 of 2 setups, which have all been discussed here many times, either gear very low and throw a lot of timing/boost at it, or gear a bit higher and back down on the other settings.

If you really don't want a tekin, don't buy one, but come here telling us why, cause we don't care, they've proven beyond a shadow of a doubt to be the best overall solution, any every time they get 1 upped, they go back and make it faster, and guess what, you didn't have to buy a new unit..
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:04 PM   #11643
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Because it costs money I have to work for?
I wont argue that at all. What I am saying is that you should not be blowing stuff up at all.

Let's look at nitro racing for instance. It is quite easy to blow up a 700 dollar motor on the break-in bench. I know I can't afford that and I bet you can't either. So, should I not race then? My choice is to be careful and follow good advice. Doing that, I don't blow stuff up. If you think the only way to win is to run 80% nitro, super lean at 400 degrees then you will blow stuff up.

Every speedo out there is capable of burning up motors. If the threat of that is to much to stand, don't race. It's that simple. If you want to race, ask questions, read and go conservative. You will be fine.

If messing with settings is too much for you, either get someone at your track that knows what they are doing to set it up for you, or get a different speedo. Me, I like settings and experimentation so I'm sticking with Tekin but not everybody is into that.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:06 PM   #11644
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I have never blown anything up (yet). But I have seen people go through two speedies and two motors in one race (that's about 1k AU$ in one day). I can not afford that, sorry.
just out of curiousity, do you know how those guys blew up their motors/speedos?? and were they tekin's stuff?

I know I had ZERO test time with my v203 software and threw a setting on it that one of my buddies used, tweaked it a little for my driving style - and the thing just flat out ripped on the track...my first 'test' with the car/speedo/motor all came on the same day - the four hours before racing started...I didn't bake a motor or speedo and the motor came off cool each run (8 minutes in 12th scale)

its VERY hard to blow up both a motor and a speedo from just trying new settings...now doing silly things, like plugging things in backwards, or blown bearings, etc, THAT makes it easy to kill something...but everything I've seen the motor will go BEFORe the speedo

i get the whole thing about spending hard-earned cash of equipment, I pay for everything i've every ran (tekin driver or not), so I don't like replacing stuff that blows up because it ultimately going to come outta my bank account..

how about giving some of the guys here some info about where you're running, what you're running and maybe (just maybe) we can give you a good safe starting point?
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:13 PM   #11645
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Dude, enjoy the C main, that's all I have to say. Your argument makes no sense, the software is not super sensitive waiting to explode. My first day out with it, I sent settings all over the place, ran the car for a minute or two and checked temps, when you have it WRONG, the car feels wrong, so chances are you won't even stick with it. In the end most people are running 1 of 2 setups, which have all been discussed here many times, either gear very low and throw a lot of timing/boost at it, or gear a bit higher and back down on the other settings.

If you really don't want a tekin, don't buy one, but come here telling us why, cause we don't care, they've proven beyond a shadow of a doubt to be the best overall solution, any every time they get 1 upped, they go back and make it faster, and guess what, you didn't have to buy a new unit..

I told you mike, you good at this..hahah you know what...

Back to the point, I only burned 2 BL moto so far since I came back racing RC 1 year ago and that's with a LRP TC ESC, cause I had to gear up so low my motor was running 180F all the time. we all had to do that to keep up with a Tekin RS.

like ole saying, if you cant beat em, join em..so I did, my motor last week at super highbite track ran 130F max after 6min race...of cos with da RS.

with da Tekin you will have a less chnace blow anything up, btw do they really blow/explode up in da air?
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:17 PM   #11646
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I would hope that people wouldn't be that put off by the RS. We have some of the best support systems in the industry. Multiple forums, emails,etc are in place to guide a Tekin user/customer in the right direction.

There is a lot of info that can be found here:

www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html

Our team guys regularly are on here and other forums supporting the product.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:26 PM   #11647
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i know a lot of guys run the rs in onroad, but how does the speedo work for offroad?
will the speedo hold up with all the jumping and landing hard?
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:29 PM   #11648
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Yes of course. If you go to our website we've won a lot of offroad events.

The RS is stellar in any 1/10 setting,period.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:31 PM   #11649
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"We don't have any info of actual RPM and this is the primary input in the setup procedure. That's where things like the datalogger can help."
A Tekin 10.5, with the esc on basic settings and a 12.5mm rota, revs at just under 30,000 RPM.

A Tekin 10.5, with the esc set to 55 and 0 turbo and a 12.5mm rota, revs at just over 85,000 RPM (13mm rota revs at 74,600RPM).

A Tekin 10.5, with the esc set to 55 and 20 turbo and a 12.5mm rota, revs just over 97,000 RPM.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:38 PM   #11650
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
I would hope that people wouldn't be that put off by the RS. We have some of the best support systems in the industry. Multiple forums, emails,etc are in place to guide a Tekin user/customer in the right direction.

There is a lot of info that can be found here:

www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html

Our team guys regularly are on here and other forums supporting the product.
I'm not put off at all, though I could see how some could be. For instance, I had absolutely no idea where to start with settings. Fortunately we have this forum. Found a set-up from someone else running the same thing (1/12th, 1s, 10.5) put it in the car and was setting TQ laptimes right off the bat. I have had to make very few adjustments since, though I'm looking forward to trying something fairly different for the next race.

It's not so much that it's difficult. Once you start messing with it, it's pretty simple but it is a bit intimidating for the first time or less knowledgeable racer. I'm not sure what more could be done about it though. The only thing I can think of would be "Easy Buttons". I think you mentioned something like this earlier.

Basically, ship the speedo with 203 installed and have a safe but good base set-up for all common racing types available with the push buttons on the esc. Might not be doable, but would be nice. Me, I'll stick with the laptop
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:40 PM   #11651
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Originally Posted by RSCosworth View Post
A Tekin 10.5, with the esc on basic settings and a 12.5mm rota, revs at just under 30,000 RPM.

A Tekin 10.5, with the esc set to 55 and 0 turbo and a 12.5mm rota, revs at just over 85,000 RPM (13mm rota revs at 74,600RPM).

A Tekin 10.5, with the esc set to 55 and 20 turbo and a 12.5mm rota, revs just over 97,000 RPM.
None of which really means anything for on track performance. Plus, I was quoting someone else there.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:50 PM   #11652
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Yes of course. If you go to our website we've won a lot of offroad events.

The RS is stellar in any 1/10 setting,period.
I'll second that. I run a standard RS in my TC with a 13.5 (Redline of course), an RS Pro in my B44 with an 8.5 (another Redline), and my boy runs an R1 with a silver can (not a Redline!) in his B44.

They all work flawlessly, and are so easy to install and maintain. I muck about with my settings a fair bit, but always do a run and check motor tempos 1/2 way through, and at the end. If it's hot, I re-gear or take the timing back. If you run on 80 deg C constantly and don't give yourself a margin for fluctuation, expect to wreck stuff sooner or later. I have 60 to 70 deg C as my upper limit, and then work on my driving if i'm not fast enough
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:04 PM   #11653
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The Rs is magic and f****** quick.

Last edited by RSCosworth; 02-02-2010 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:26 PM   #11654
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Idiot with a Tekin coming through....

Can someone give me a crash course on the basics of these speedos? I just bought one and going to put it in an 09 xray with a 104 spur. Running 57mm foams. Where should I start on pinions? Also what changes should be made to run rubber tires. Any and all info/help is appreciated....

Thanks in advance...
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:20 PM   #11655
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This thread is an (overwhelmingly) awesome source of knowledge and information. Before I continue with any more questions I'd like to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and debating in a mature matter. I'd especially like to thank those who have PM'd me to share their setups and bounce theory back and forth!

Alright, so on to my next theory. From what I have seen, besides a few "different" setups such as Schreff's Snowbirds setup, it seems like there is a general consensus on a lot of the main aspects of the setup. So my question now is:

When I put my car on the track and I know the setup on the speedo is close, but not perfect, do I keep going back to the ESC settings on the Hotwire and continually tweak that? Or is there a point where the ESC is close and I should start experimenting with gearing again?

With the SPX the process was pretty much: set to profile 8, maybe adjust the timing on the motor a little, and it was mostly gearing for temps. Now there are so many more variables that I'm not sure where the starting points are anymore.
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