Tekin RS ESC sensored
Voltage (as read back by the charger) is 3.8v immediately after a run. Pack(s) take between 1900 and 2100 mAh upon recharge.
If the motor isn't fading due to heat, why the drop off? If the settings aren't right, why would it run great for the first 5 minutes? I could understand if the motor was above 180 degrees, but not 105 - 115 degrees.
How much are you putting back into your battery ?
And no voltage cuttoff ... Hmmm.
Still getting full throttle turbo after 8 min ??
What is your temp at 5 minutes ?
And no voltage cuttoff ... Hmmm.
Still getting full throttle turbo after 8 min ??
What is your temp at 5 minutes ?
Cross posted from the 1s LiPo thread, since this one gets a lot more traffic.
OK, here is a weird problem...
1/12 scale, Tekin RS Pro V203, 1s LiPo, voltage booster 17.5 Duo 1 motor. Zero degree timing on motor, max boost, max turbo, 0.3 delay, default start and end RPM, no voltage cutoff, neutral 10, brake strength 100, drag brake 5, rollout 3.10 inches.
Car runs great for about 5 minutes, then falls on it's face badly, slower by around 3 seconds per lap (10.5 fast lap, to 13.5 seconds at the end). Motor is only 106 degrees after entire 8 minutes. ESC was cold, so no chance of it overheating. Case, as well as posts weren't even warm.
Swap out motor to brand new 17.5 Duo 2, try different battery, different voltage booster. Same thing. Motor is only 115 degrees after 8 minutes. Not losing control (like if regulator was dropping out).
Otherwise, car was very fast. Leading race, had a lap up over 3rd place, but he was able to make it up, pass me, and finished 1 lap up over me. I can see dropping off a few tenths, but not 30%.
Any ideas?
OK, here is a weird problem...
1/12 scale, Tekin RS Pro V203, 1s LiPo, voltage booster 17.5 Duo 1 motor. Zero degree timing on motor, max boost, max turbo, 0.3 delay, default start and end RPM, no voltage cutoff, neutral 10, brake strength 100, drag brake 5, rollout 3.10 inches.
Car runs great for about 5 minutes, then falls on it's face badly, slower by around 3 seconds per lap (10.5 fast lap, to 13.5 seconds at the end). Motor is only 106 degrees after entire 8 minutes. ESC was cold, so no chance of it overheating. Case, as well as posts weren't even warm.
Swap out motor to brand new 17.5 Duo 2, try different battery, different voltage booster. Same thing. Motor is only 115 degrees after 8 minutes. Not losing control (like if regulator was dropping out).
Otherwise, car was very fast. Leading race, had a lap up over 3rd place, but he was able to make it up, pass me, and finished 1 lap up over me. I can see dropping off a few tenths, but not 30%.
Any ideas?
Putting 1900 - 2100 mAh back into the ThunderPower 5000 or Speedzone 5200. No chance of over discharging these packs in 8 minutes with a 17.5. I'm not even using 50% of the capacity. Pack reads back as 3.8v when put back on the charger immediately after the run.
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Doubtful that the neutral is drifting. Same radio works fine with rubber and foam TCs both running RS Pros, both with same basic settings, neither of which suffer from this issue.
Voltage (as read back by the charger) is 3.8v immediately after a run. Pack(s) take between 1900 and 2100 mAh upon recharge.
Voltage (as read back by the charger) is 3.8v immediately after a run. Pack(s) take between 1900 and 2100 mAh upon recharge.
-check
Maybe do a master reset on the speedo and recalibrate (good chance you've tried this).......
Tech Adept
Confused!!!
Do the RPM settings affect the timing etc even if the turbo is not being used?
If so what should the start and max RPM range be for a Speed Passion 13.5 ver.3?
Medium tractio carpet with a 30m straight I was geared at about 5ish?
Thanks for your advice in advance
Do the RPM settings affect the timing etc even if the turbo is not being used?
If so what should the start and max RPM range be for a Speed Passion 13.5 ver.3?
Medium tractio carpet with a 30m straight I was geared at about 5ish?
Thanks for your advice in advance
Has anyone tried Barry Bakers setup using a 13.5 Redline, I know he was using a checkpoint but wondered how it would go with the Redline.
and you've done the EPA trick when caibrating ?
Check your motor temp before it slows down ( 5 minutes in )
Maybe try backing off from max everything to 50 and 10 and Lower the ramp rate one notch ? Or have you tried everything above ?
Just trying to help...
Check your motor temp before it slows down ( 5 minutes in )
Maybe try backing off from max everything to 50 and 10 and Lower the ramp rate one notch ? Or have you tried everything above ?
Just trying to help...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
I know this has already been answered... But I cannot find it...
Is the 12 degree mark on the Tekin 17.5 actually 12 degrees? Or something else?
Is the 12 degree mark on the Tekin 17.5 actually 12 degrees? Or something else?
For all intensive purposes it's 12. We don't discuss the "early read" that we used to anymore.
Barry's 13.5 setup works killer on our Redline motor.
Barry's 13.5 setup works killer on our Redline motor.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
I don't care for the 3.0 ramp rate and the .2 delay for your turbo. That's too much timing too fast. I know this to be true because your motor temps are higher than they should be for this software/setup. That on top of the issue of "fade" is telling me this is the case.
Since your'e running TC I would like you to try this setup:
Start rpm of 5096
End rpm of 16,000
Timing boost set to 45
Motor timing set to 10
No turbo to start out, you MUST find the right gearing first.
How big is this track? How long is the straight away? What motor are you running? Where are you geared?
Since your'e running TC I would like you to try this setup:
Start rpm of 5096
End rpm of 16,000
Timing boost set to 45
Motor timing set to 10
No turbo to start out, you MUST find the right gearing first.
How big is this track? How long is the straight away? What motor are you running? Where are you geared?
geared at a 6.75 with an orion 13.5 motor
what ramp is likeable
CarbonJoe, some people doubt me when I say this and some have even blasted me for it (in other threads) but seriously, try a good receiver pack and see if that solves the problem.
A guy at the local track had the same issue because his 50mah receiver pack would only last about half the run. After that he still had perfect control, but laptimes fell off dramatically.
I had the same thing happen to me with a friends car when a wire on the receiver pack broke.
If the booster can't keep up with demand after main pack voltage falls off a bit, I would think the same thing could happen.
A guy at the local track had the same issue because his 50mah receiver pack would only last about half the run. After that he still had perfect control, but laptimes fell off dramatically.
I had the same thing happen to me with a friends car when a wire on the receiver pack broke.
If the booster can't keep up with demand after main pack voltage falls off a bit, I would think the same thing could happen.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
second that idea!
also what size track are you running on? i can understand running max timimg (because i do) but running max boost as well? the track i run on is 74x36 and my settings are:
WGT 1s 13.5 duo
50 drag
4 tp
max timing
7 turbo
.2 delay
7001 end
2437 start
3 ramp
temps 148 (134 without drag)
so far i have the current track record and managed the quickest lap (and fade is very minimal)
others at the track are running what magnet top mentioned above and they are VERY fast as well.
I'll try some of these suggestions at practice Wednesday. I'd like to understand *why* this is happening. I also have an SMC Rx pack that I'll try.