Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Hi Guys:
Running a TC, 2S, 17.5 Novak SS Pro, V.203, FDR = 5.0 (track approx 75'X34'), timing boost = 50, turbo = 10. Spektrum receiver
Due to my new settigs mentioned above with V.203, I recently added a motor fan (integy) to keep motor cool, just ran 2 qualifiers with no problem, 1st race there was two moments where the car cogged or hesitated momentarily. Didn't happen on the next race, albeit, I did lower the timing boost to 40.
Some say the sensor harness might have been involved, some say that perhaps a capacitor may help.
Could this be due to the spektrum receiver going below min voltage, therefore shutting on and off? In this case, the capacitor could help? Temps on the motor are not too high....
Any comments / advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
Running a TC, 2S, 17.5 Novak SS Pro, V.203, FDR = 5.0 (track approx 75'X34'), timing boost = 50, turbo = 10. Spektrum receiver
Due to my new settigs mentioned above with V.203, I recently added a motor fan (integy) to keep motor cool, just ran 2 qualifiers with no problem, 1st race there was two moments where the car cogged or hesitated momentarily. Didn't happen on the next race, albeit, I did lower the timing boost to 40.
Some say the sensor harness might have been involved, some say that perhaps a capacitor may help.
Could this be due to the spektrum receiver going below min voltage, therefore shutting on and off? In this case, the capacitor could help? Temps on the motor are not too high....
Any comments / advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Thanks Mark , got with Arvin today , he forgot the computer ,lol. Yeah I got the fan and yeah it's alot better. 9.5's dogg Arvin hit em to. Thanks for taking the time to help. Lots of Luck at the Birds Mark !!
Tech Regular
You also mentioned that the Novak SS has 25 deg stock timing....according to Mark Brown, it is around 15 degrees, perhaps a mistake by Mark? perhaps my misunderstanding?
What about voltage drop too large on the receiver? I have first generation spektrum receiver.
Thx!!!
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
what color ring black or orange.
i see it yellow so it may be 15.take in consideration v200 max timing was 30 203 max is around 56
i see it yellow so it may be 15.take in consideration v200 max timing was 30 203 max is around 56
Tech Regular
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
Tech Regular
When you say dirty sensor board, are you talking about the female portion of the connection on the ESC?
Unfortunately for me, I cannot replace the sensor wire on the SS Pro....crap, perhaps unplugging it and just blowing it out with a compressor would help?
LCV on receiver, is this a normal occurrance when using a 17.5? many racers use one? perhaps the newly installed motor fan didn't help, what do you think?
Maybe I need to upgrade to a Ballistic motor, opinions?
Thx
I would upgrade to a Tekin Redline!
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
Hi Guys:
Running a TC, 2S, 17.5 Novak SS Pro, V.203, FDR = 5.0 (track approx 75'X34'), timing boost = 50, turbo = 10. Spektrum receiver
Due to my new settigs mentioned above with V.203, I recently added a motor fan (integy) to keep motor cool, just ran 2 qualifiers with no problem, 1st race there was two moments where the car cogged or hesitated momentarily. Didn't happen on the next race, albeit, I did lower the timing boost to 40.
Some say the sensor harness might have been involved, some say that perhaps a capacitor may help.
Could this be due to the spektrum receiver going below min voltage, therefore shutting on and off? In this case, the capacitor could help? Temps on the motor are not too high....
Any comments / advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
Running a TC, 2S, 17.5 Novak SS Pro, V.203, FDR = 5.0 (track approx 75'X34'), timing boost = 50, turbo = 10. Spektrum receiver
Due to my new settigs mentioned above with V.203, I recently added a motor fan (integy) to keep motor cool, just ran 2 qualifiers with no problem, 1st race there was two moments where the car cogged or hesitated momentarily. Didn't happen on the next race, albeit, I did lower the timing boost to 40.
Some say the sensor harness might have been involved, some say that perhaps a capacitor may help.
Could this be due to the spektrum receiver going below min voltage, therefore shutting on and off? In this case, the capacitor could help? Temps on the motor are not too high....
Any comments / advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
Do not run v203 without a cap on it.....
1-I do not remember how much you can vary the timing on the Novak motors, but set it at zero if possible. That will keep motor temps as low as possible. If you can't set it that low, get a Tekin Redline 17.5, mine have been rockets.
2-I have seen a cogging effect a couple of times. 1st is usually a bad sensor wire, switch to a new one and go from there. Next, the turbo set at 10* is a lot, and depending on your set-up, it can hit pretty hard, I would drop that to 0* for now. I don't believe you need that much on such a short track. What are your rpm settings?
Tech Regular
Good point Randy! I should also start thinking about purchasing a spare RS Pro....but it seems to be out of stock everywhere...is Tekin having demand issues at the factory?
Thanks!!!
BTW...even thought the car bogged a couple of times, I took the victory anyway..awesome product!!!
Thanks!!!
BTW...even thought the car bogged a couple of times, I took the victory anyway..awesome product!!!
Tech Regular
Do not run v203 without a cap on it.....
1-I do not remember how much you can vary the timing on the Novak motors, but set it at zero if possible. That will keep motor temps as low as possible. If you can't set it that low, get a Tekin Redline 17.5, mine have been rockets.
2-I have seen a cogging effect a couple of times. 1st is usually a bad sensor wire, switch to a new one and go from there. Next, the turbo set at 10* is a lot, and depending on your set-up, it can hit pretty hard, I would drop that to 0* for now. I don't believe you need that much on such a short track. What are your rpm settings?
1-I do not remember how much you can vary the timing on the Novak motors, but set it at zero if possible. That will keep motor temps as low as possible. If you can't set it that low, get a Tekin Redline 17.5, mine have been rockets.
2-I have seen a cogging effect a couple of times. 1st is usually a bad sensor wire, switch to a new one and go from there. Next, the turbo set at 10* is a lot, and depending on your set-up, it can hit pretty hard, I would drop that to 0* for now. I don't believe you need that much on such a short track. What are your rpm settings?
Start RPM = 4500, End RPM = 12,500
Sitting trackside and after practicing and running 1 round of qualifying all I can say is FUN,FUN,FUN. I myself am slightly off pace (car set up) but the speedo settings are fun to play with. gearing, turbo, and rpm settings seem to be what everyone is mostly playing with. My boy "TEAM PINK" is TQ and geared 5.6 while others who are fast are at 6.4 That's a huge difference but everyone has different driving styles and car set up's. They are only taking the top 7 into the A-main so I have to step it up to make it. You guys should see all the Tekins being run out here.
last night racing i made some changes on the speedo. I turned everything off then back on again and I only had servo movement, but not throttle. I thought it might be that the radio needed to be re-calibrated, but once I tried to re-calibrate, the speedo never found the neutral point.
I hooked the hotwire back up, hit apply settings again, closed out everything, turned everything back on and then the car worked.
Does anybody have any idea what might have been going on? I have also had the speedo lose the calibration once after a setting change. Is this normal?
I hooked the hotwire back up, hit apply settings again, closed out everything, turned everything back on and then the car worked.
Does anybody have any idea what might have been going on? I have also had the speedo lose the calibration once after a setting change. Is this normal?
If your radio is close to the car (as it would be on the bench), the Tx might be overloading the Rx. This could cause the ESC to not see the neutral signal. If the ESC doesn't see neutral at powerup, it won't arm, so the motor won't run. If you move the Tx a few feet away, I'd bet that it would be just fine. Been there, done that.