Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I've just updated to v203 I haven't raced it yet (will be tomorrow)
I think I'm starting my head around the whole start and end rpm, I'm hoping that my settings will act as good base setup. I've attached a pic of the settings. Motor is Tekin Redline 17.5
But one thing that I'm wondering about is why my ESC Model coming up as RS Beta I bought the ESC new from a hobby shop, I personally wouldn't expect it to come up as a Beta ESC.
I think I'm starting my head around the whole start and end rpm, I'm hoping that my settings will act as good base setup. I've attached a pic of the settings. Motor is Tekin Redline 17.5
But one thing that I'm wondering about is why my ESC Model coming up as RS Beta I bought the ESC new from a hobby shop, I personally wouldn't expect it to come up as a Beta ESC.
Tech Regular
Hey Guys - has anyone posted a setup for a 17.5 Speedpassion V3 - running TC on medium sized asphalt track (90x45 ish). I've been working on setups on mine and a friends Duo2. With the same setup mine doesn't do nearly the rpms as the Duo2. Setup we have now has turbo 50, timing 10, rpm 4500 - 10,000, Sensored, Have only bench tested so far. No track testing, so only basing perception on rpms at full throttle.
My speedpassion motor seems to be influenced more by increases in timing boost than in Turbo...
Any thoughts?
Thanks - MarkG
My speedpassion motor seems to be influenced more by increases in timing boost than in Turbo...
Any thoughts?
Thanks - MarkG
Tech Regular
When are you guys coming out with this?
That is fantastic!!!!!
Where i can get it!!!!!!
Where i can get it!!!!!!
I heard of the sentry, but do not know anyone that has tried it and so do not know how reliable data can be obtained. But I guess that could be a great way to understand much more our ESC.
Thanks
Tech Fanatic
I would have to say No from my recent bench testing while hooked up and logging with the Novak Sentry.
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
What I found is that the timing boost does not seem to do anything below 30-deg of timing. I check the max rpm with the Sentry at 0, 10, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 deg of timing, and not until I reach 30-deg did I see an rpm increase, and only by 500rpm's on a 13.5 Duo2 1S, and 2500rpm's on a 13.5 Ballistic 2S.
When I added Turbo timing to both setup's, the rpm's increased drastically, and varied depending on base timing, boost timing, and turbo timing.
This goes back to the old 27T days, when people would come onto forums like these and say "I bought a Trinicheckeedy Monster-Mega Woosher, and it only does 24,000 rpm on my cells. My Johnsoatlas does 32,000 rpm, so I'm using that." We all watched in amusement as aforesaid, self-qualifed motor guru is blown into the weeds by the lower-revving motor!!
I am sure it is interesting, and I hope you enjoy your voyage of discovery, for science and research's main purpose is discovery. You might have to forgive VRacing and me if we do ours on the track... with the motor under load... with different ratios...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
So it's seems that the sweet spot for timing boost is between 40 and 50. What would happen should the car (TC) be overgeared (without knowing), is this just a case of poor acceleration, or mostly a potential overtemp situation?
I find it challenging trying to find the appropriate gearing. Currently I my timing boost is at 20, turbo 20, but my FDR = 4.0 (TC 2S, 17.5, track 75X40). Temps are good, acceleration seems good, but I am apprehensive to inbcrease the timing boost to 40 or 50.
Any suggestions for testing? Change gearing prior to testing high timing boost, or test with existing gearing (high timing boost) and check motor temp often?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
I find it challenging trying to find the appropriate gearing. Currently I my timing boost is at 20, turbo 20, but my FDR = 4.0 (TC 2S, 17.5, track 75X40). Temps are good, acceleration seems good, but I am apprehensive to inbcrease the timing boost to 40 or 50.
Any suggestions for testing? Change gearing prior to testing high timing boost, or test with existing gearing (high timing boost) and check motor temp often?
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
MH
Not to far back in posts, someone had mentioned that setting the gearing to be dead on at 30 tim. boost, after thats acheived,crank it up to 50 and go for it!!! Makes sense if you kick the theory around in your head for a bit. Pretty sure he said advice came from randy,or equivelant tekin representative.. I pla to try this metho of tuning myself, just as soon as i get to a track!
Tommy
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I've used my sentry a bit, and the graphing in the software seems kinda shoddy. Looking at the XML logs, it seems there's lots of samples for the RPM data, but the graph doesn't seem to show every sample point, so it's tough to drill down to detail for looking at accelleration rates. The data can be coaxed into Excel, but I haven't played with that too much yet.
The motor temperature loop is kinda interesting, but I'm not positive how accurate it is. I've noticed at the end of the race, in the time it takes me to get off the stand and pick up my car, the temp will increase quite a bit. For example, it might show 90-100* degrees on the last lap or two, and then at the very end of the trace (after I click the stop button), it might say 130*. It seems like maybe the temp sensor doesn't quite touch the motor, and thus cools a lot while the car is running. Either that or the motor just heat-soaks once it stops moving.
Reading feedback on the sentry elsewhere on the this board, it seems like most people feel that the sample rate is too low for the acellerometer data to be useful for chassis tuning. The software doesn't have any provisions for calibrating the acellerometers, either.
-Mike
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
+1 with VRacing - this is an exercise in futility. DC electric motors retard under load. The more load, the more they retard. The load they see is related to the track, which is why a setting for one track can be sub-optimal on another track.
This goes back to the old 27T days, when people would come onto forums like these and say "I bought a Trinicheckeedy Monster-Mega Woosher, and it only does 24,000 rpm on my cells. My Johnsoatlas does 32,000 rpm, so I'm using that." We all watched in amusement as aforesaid, self-qualifed motor guru is blown into the weeds by the lower-revving motor!!
I am sure it is interesting, and I hope you enjoy your voyage of discovery, for science and research's main purpose is discovery. You might have to forgive VRacing and me if we do ours on the track... with the motor under load... with different ratios...
This goes back to the old 27T days, when people would come onto forums like these and say "I bought a Trinicheckeedy Monster-Mega Woosher, and it only does 24,000 rpm on my cells. My Johnsoatlas does 32,000 rpm, so I'm using that." We all watched in amusement as aforesaid, self-qualifed motor guru is blown into the weeds by the lower-revving motor!!
I am sure it is interesting, and I hope you enjoy your voyage of discovery, for science and research's main purpose is discovery. You might have to forgive VRacing and me if we do ours on the track... with the motor under load... with different ratios...
Ok i will try it, seems something easier to use and read!
Hope so!
Thank you!
But i have a problem with my ESC, let's look at it:
what happens is that along a turn or during deceleration, the car stopped abruptly as if I pulled the brakes strong and then when i'm going to accelerate my car doesn't move and a strange noise come out from the motor.
After a brief moment the car starts immediately but it has happened to remain accelerated and out of control.
I tried different things, I replaced the cord and clean the sensor, I changed the motor, I changed the receiver, I resetted the ESC and I recalibrated the radio, but I have not eliminated the problem.
My car runs perfectly and has no mechanical problems so I tried another ESC.
The problem is gone.
What happens and what can i check?
Thank for your advices
Hope so!
Thank you!
But i have a problem with my ESC, let's look at it:
what happens is that along a turn or during deceleration, the car stopped abruptly as if I pulled the brakes strong and then when i'm going to accelerate my car doesn't move and a strange noise come out from the motor.
After a brief moment the car starts immediately but it has happened to remain accelerated and out of control.
I tried different things, I replaced the cord and clean the sensor, I changed the motor, I changed the receiver, I resetted the ESC and I recalibrated the radio, but I have not eliminated the problem.
My car runs perfectly and has no mechanical problems so I tried another ESC.
The problem is gone.
What happens and what can i check?
Thank for your advices
Without going all the way through the thread again, does anyone have a starting point for 10.5 on medium to large track with 203 software.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Ok i will try it, seems something easier to use and read!
Hope so!
Thank you!
But i have a problem with my ESC, let's look at it:
what happens is that along a turn or during deceleration, the car stopped abruptly as if I pulled the brakes strong and then when i'm going to accelerate my car doesn't move and a strange noise come out from the motor.
After a brief moment the car starts immediately but it has happened to remain accelerated and out of control.
I tried different things, I replaced the cord and clean the sensor, I changed the motor, I changed the receiver, I resetted the ESC and I recalibrated the radio, but I have not eliminated the problem.
My car runs perfectly and has no mechanical problems so I tried another ESC.
The problem is gone.
What happens and what can i check?
Thank for your advices
Hope so!
Thank you!
But i have a problem with my ESC, let's look at it:
what happens is that along a turn or during deceleration, the car stopped abruptly as if I pulled the brakes strong and then when i'm going to accelerate my car doesn't move and a strange noise come out from the motor.
After a brief moment the car starts immediately but it has happened to remain accelerated and out of control.
I tried different things, I replaced the cord and clean the sensor, I changed the motor, I changed the receiver, I resetted the ESC and I recalibrated the radio, but I have not eliminated the problem.
My car runs perfectly and has no mechanical problems so I tried another ESC.
The problem is gone.
What happens and what can i check?
Thank for your advices
If you're interested in the Sentry, check the price of ordering it straight from Novak. I think it's discontinued and they're clearing out stock. I got the pro for like $90 (normal price is $160), a couple months ago. It comes with extra temp sensors and a current sensor.
I've used my sentry a bit, and the graphing in the software seems kinda shoddy. Looking at the XML logs, it seems there's lots of samples for the RPM data, but the graph doesn't seem to show every sample point, so it's tough to drill down to detail for looking at accelleration rates. The data can be coaxed into Excel, but I haven't played with that too much yet.
The motor temperature loop is kinda interesting, but I'm not positive how accurate it is. I've noticed at the end of the race, in the time it takes me to get off the stand and pick up my car, the temp will increase quite a bit. For example, it might show 90-100* degrees on the last lap or two, and then at the very end of the trace (after I click the stop button), it might say 130*. It seems like maybe the temp sensor doesn't quite touch the motor, and thus cools a lot while the car is running. Either that or the motor just heat-soaks once it stops moving.
Reading feedback on the sentry elsewhere on the this board, it seems like most people feel that the sample rate is too low for the acellerometer data to be useful for chassis tuning. The software doesn't have any provisions for calibrating the acellerometers, either.
-Mike
I've used my sentry a bit, and the graphing in the software seems kinda shoddy. Looking at the XML logs, it seems there's lots of samples for the RPM data, but the graph doesn't seem to show every sample point, so it's tough to drill down to detail for looking at accelleration rates. The data can be coaxed into Excel, but I haven't played with that too much yet.
The motor temperature loop is kinda interesting, but I'm not positive how accurate it is. I've noticed at the end of the race, in the time it takes me to get off the stand and pick up my car, the temp will increase quite a bit. For example, it might show 90-100* degrees on the last lap or two, and then at the very end of the trace (after I click the stop button), it might say 130*. It seems like maybe the temp sensor doesn't quite touch the motor, and thus cools a lot while the car is running. Either that or the motor just heat-soaks once it stops moving.
Reading feedback on the sentry elsewhere on the this board, it seems like most people feel that the sample rate is too low for the acellerometer data to be useful for chassis tuning. The software doesn't have any provisions for calibrating the acellerometers, either.
-Mike
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
I've just updated to v203 I haven't raced it yet (will be tomorrow)
I think I'm starting my head around the whole start and end rpm, I'm hoping that my settings will act as good base setup. I've attached a pic of the settings. Motor is Tekin Redline 17.5
But one thing that I'm wondering about is why my ESC Model coming up as RS Beta I bought the ESC new from a hobby shop, I personally wouldn't expect it to come up as a Beta ESC.
I think I'm starting my head around the whole start and end rpm, I'm hoping that my settings will act as good base setup. I've attached a pic of the settings. Motor is Tekin Redline 17.5
But one thing that I'm wondering about is why my ESC Model coming up as RS Beta I bought the ESC new from a hobby shop, I personally wouldn't expect it to come up as a Beta ESC.
As for your settings. I am guessing you are running touring car. Also the track size depends on your settings. One thing I would do would be start your RPM around 50 and Turbo at 0 for now. Also add a bit more Push to the car if you can drive it. Pay very close attention to your motor temp. Temp after every 2 min. and adjustments.
Hey Guys - has anyone posted a setup for a 17.5 Speedpassion V3 - running TC on medium sized asphalt track (90x45 ish). I've been working on setups on mine and a friends Duo2. With the same setup mine doesn't do nearly the rpms as the Duo2. Setup we have now has turbo 50, timing 10, rpm 4500 - 10,000, Sensored, Have only bench tested so far. No track testing, so only basing perception on rpms at full throttle.
My speedpassion motor seems to be influenced more by increases in timing boost than in Turbo...
Any thoughts?
Thanks - MarkG
My speedpassion motor seems to be influenced more by increases in timing boost than in Turbo...
Any thoughts?
Thanks - MarkG