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Old 01-13-2010, 03:34 PM   #10576
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OK I can recreate the boost rpms going back to default. The only way I can make it happen is to not fully select the start rpm after hitting 'calc rpm's'. There is a ghost box around the rpm's that has to also be black background and may take more than 1 click. There may be more to it, but it seems as long as you click the start rpms a few times and make sure it is selected and highlighted it works correctly. We will put in some checks and balances to make sure it cannot happen.
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:44 PM   #10577
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
mikky, you've been saying that since the BD first made waves and that is not how it works. It works like any other brushless speedo and uses dynamic timing that was more effective than v200 but not as effective as 203. The only thing "different" about it is that when you run a receiver pack in 1s it has a plug to use the internal bec on the BD so that you don't have to use a separate one.
This is how it's told me.
The thing I now is, is that the top speed is lower than that from the Tekin.
The Tekin has the most power in the top speed. Thanks to the Turbo, the speedo keeps accelerating faster than the other speedo's. The Turbo ramp is fantastic.

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OK I can recreate the boost rpms going back to default. The only way I can make it happen is to not fully select the start rpm after hitting 'calc rpm's'. There is a ghost box around the rpm's that has to also be black background and may take more than 1 click. There may be more to it, but it seems as long as you click the start rpms a few times and make sure it is selected and highlighted it works correctly. We will put in some checks and balances to make sure it cannot happen.
I got it once and I was thinking that I didn't connect the hotwire not right. I didn't had the connector from the speedo fully in the hotwire plug.
Now it works fine.

I always check if he saved the settings to my speedo.
This way I'm sure that it went right.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:10 PM   #10578
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My understanding has been the speed control is looking for the trigger to be at "neutral" for X amount of time before reverse is engaged. Repeated quick stabs won't engage reverse.
Thanks Krio. That's my understanding as well. I'd like to know how long the reverse delay/time out/whatever you want to call it is.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #10579
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Originally Posted by TeamTekin View Post
OK I can recreate the boost rpms going back to default. The only way I can make it happen is to not fully select the start rpm after hitting 'calc rpm's'. There is a ghost box around the rpm's that has to also be black background and may take more than 1 click. There may be more to it, but it seems as long as you click the start rpms a few times and make sure it is selected and highlighted it works correctly. We will put in some checks and balances to make sure it cannot happen.
Yep, I've had it once also but never managed to recreate it. That was from setting the ESC for 5 different people too! Happy it can be recreated. Far easier to fix when you know the reason!

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Old 01-13-2010, 04:42 PM   #10580
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Brian, I hope this will clarify it for your buddies.

Turbo Boost is independent of anything else you set on the speedo. Turbo Boost is activated as soon as the speedo detects full throttle throw, or 'wide open throttle' (WOT) as Randy calls it! So, if you set Turbo Boost at 10, with a delay of 0.5, then the speedo will give the motor 10 degress of timing after WOT has been held for 0.5 secs.

The problem is that if you pile too much timing into the motor at low revs, it cannot gain speed, and converts all the energy from the cells it can't use into heat - hence the temps go up.

Get your infield speed and acceleration right first, so the car is picking up well off the turn. Balance gear ratio and Timing Boost to do this. Once that is done, you can add in Turbo Boost to get more straightaway speed.

It's really very simple, but sometimes explanations are liable to make it seem complicated! I hope this helps.
Just to be perfectly clear . . .
I think the following is a better representation of the highlighted text.

So, if you set Turbo Boost at 10, with a delay of 0.5, then the speedo will begin to give the motor 10 degress of timing after WOT has been held for 0.5 secs.

hopefully the explanation of the explanation doesn't confuse!
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:19 PM   #10581
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i want to know what battery will give 1.21 Gigawatts of power what a lightning pack from smc
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My system after doing the update and setting it up. does not show v203 only 200, 198 and some other one that i dont recall right now. Well i used the 200 and all my settings were accepted on the esc. I went to calibrate radio and after calibration it just has the red lights blinking.. i guess its supposed to find neutral again and its not... any suggestions. it was working fine....with the previous version? also is it supposed to show 203 or just the 200??? thanks

okay so the vista riddle was solved thanks.... but i still cant calibrate my radio..it just blinks after the calibration.
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:23 PM   #10582
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I am a bit confused if the Hotwire setup is buggy on me, or is supposed to be like this; maybe someone can lend a hand.

I am trying to use the Jeff Cuffs setup, in which the Start RPM is 2000, the End RPM is 7000; 3.0 ramp rate.

Issue I am having is if you select a END RPM of 7000, and then click "Calc RPM" I'm given a bunch of odd numbered choices, 2473 being the only one close to 2000 - and I cannot input my own number for the start RPM. I can only pick one from the list that pops up after clicking "Calc RPM"

Is it functioning correct?
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:32 PM   #10583
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Try turning your throttle to "reverse" mode on you radio and then recalibrate with the esc.

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okay so the vista riddle was solved thanks.... but i still cant calibrate my radio..it just blinks after the calibration.
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:32 PM   #10584
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you are correct WES
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:40 PM   #10585
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Try turning your throttle to "reverse" mode on you radio and then recalibrate with the esc.
I just tried that..and it made me do it backwards,, in regards to instead of hitting throttle i had to hit break and then i hit throttle when i am supposed to hit break. Either way after that it still kept on blinking.. lights blinking are 1 3 5. thanks for any help
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:14 PM   #10586
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I just tried that..and it made me do it backwards,, in regards to instead of hitting throttle i had to hit break and then i hit throttle when i am supposed to hit break. Either way after that it still kept on blinking.. lights blinking are 1 3 5. thanks for any help
Previously in this thread, it's been said that 1 3 5 is the low voltage cutoff indicator.

On the general question of radio calibration, I've found that if your full brake is too low, it won't accept it. I had this happen when I reset my radio to defaults, and that included a brake thumb adjuster endpoint of 50%. Once I bumped that up, it worked fine.

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Old 01-13-2010, 06:32 PM   #10587
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Originally Posted by RC4ODC View Post
okay so the vista riddle was solved thanks.... but i still cant calibrate my radio..it just blinks after the calibration.
Had the exact same thing happen last night installing a brand new RS in my TC. The one in my 1/12 scale installed flawlessly the first time. It kept not finding nuetral regardless of what the nuetral setting was at (anywhere from 5-20). I just happened to try a different model in the transmitter that had not been used before and it calibrated right off the bat. Have no idea why, but it worked so if you have mulitple models available in your transmitter, just try one that has the factory default settings still there. Might work.

While I was trying to get it installed in the beginning, I noticed that if I went to the dual rate/expo screen on the radio and pulled the trigger, you could see the slide bar on the graph move and once I got to about 1/2 throttle, the esc started to beep like it was finding nuetral, then beep again as I had full throttle, and beep a third time when I let go to center. Again, this was with the nuetral setting at 5 in the esc and expo turned off in the radio. All end points were at 0.


PS. I have not had an occassion where the setting did nto stick. You guys scared me in to checking both cars!

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Old 01-13-2010, 06:49 PM   #10588
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Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe View Post
I am a bit confused if the Hotwire setup is buggy on me, or is supposed to be like this; maybe someone can lend a hand.

I am trying to use the Jeff Cuffs setup, in which the Start RPM is 2000, the End RPM is 7000; 3.0 ramp rate.

Issue I am having is if you select a END RPM of 7000, and then click "Calc RPM" I'm given a bunch of odd numbered choices, 2473 being the only one close to 2000 - and I cannot input my own number for the start RPM. I can only pick one from the list that pops up after clicking "Calc RPM"

Is it functioning correct?
you can only pic what is set,even the end rpm will change by a small amount after your done and reconnect the hotwire
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:04 PM   #10589
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I just tried that..and it made me do it backwards,, in regards to instead of hitting throttle i had to hit break and then i hit throttle when i am supposed to hit break. Either way after that it still kept on blinking.. lights blinking are 1 3 5. thanks for any help
Make sure any ABS is off on the radio if yours has that option and after you switch the throttle reverse you have to recalibrate the ESC.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:21 PM   #10590
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Reverse engineering these HID commands is a pain in the balls. Any chance you guys would release the protocol in case someone wanted to toy around with making their own software for other platforms?

Interesting chip in the Hotwire, certainly not the usb/serial bridge I was expecting.
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