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Old 01-04-2010, 11:58 AM   #9916
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Originally Posted by pakk View Post
There have been a few posts on battery fade. I have experienced it and I have seen others experience it this weekend.

What is causing excessive battery fade?

Is it too much RPM? Too much timing? Too much timing too fast?
I saw someone else mention they're taking more juice out of the pack over a run than they were before. If the new software is less efficient at driving the motor, and uses more juice, then it seems like you'd get deeper into the pack's discharge curve and have less available voltage at the end of a run than before.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:05 PM   #9917
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
what formula do you use to translate kv rating into RPM?
Kv is basically 1000 revolutions per volt. so take the kv rating multiply by voltage of your pack.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:20 PM   #9918
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:23 PM   #9919
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Originally Posted by kawirider View Post
the difference in the speed is pretty surpising, especially in touring car.
Yeah in practice on Thursday I was able to click off a couple 9.3's with a 17.5. That was with making some quick what I think would work settings. I am going to head over later today or tomorrow to do some practice and get both the car and software dialed in.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:27 PM   #9920
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Kv is basically 1000 revolutions per volt. so take the kv rating multiply by voltage of your pack.
So then does anyone know the kv rating of the Duo2 17.5? Tried looking on Team Epic's site and couldn't find it.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:00 PM   #9921
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a guy last nite at the track, he had the kinda the same issue. he would rev the car on the bench and then the light in the personal transponder would dim out for a second or 2, then the booster would flash red for a few seconds and then it was ok for a while. the radio system seemed to be fine when this happened though. i run a reciever pack myself.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:00 PM   #9922
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so it's a little glitch? if we simply use .1 it wont engage till after end rpm is reached + .1 but with 0 it just jumps to adding turbo regardless of rpm?
I think this has been answered, but I hope this will clarify...

Turbo Boost comes in when you hit full throttle. It doesn't matter what is happening with Timing Boost, or rpm settings. Set your Turbo Boost to 0.0 secs delay, and 3.0 ramp, and as soon as you hit the throttle stop, the Turbo comes in a 6 deg/tenth of a second. This will be in addition to any other timing, and the chances are you will overwhelm the motor, and it will go slower as well as generating a lot of heat.

Take Randy's advice and turn the Turbo Boost off. For any straight less than 80' long, it is unlikely to be any benefit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
There have been a few posts on battery fade. I have experienced it and I have seen others experience it this weekend.

What is causing excessive battery fade?

Is it too much RPM? Too much timing? Too much timing too fast?
I hope this explanation will help understand battery fade...

When a permanent magnet electric motor revs up, it retards the timing. The interaction of the magnetic fields (coils and rotor) changes such that the effect is to reduce the advance.

If you add too much advance at low rpms then the motor can't deal with it. The coils fire in the wrong place with respect to the rotor magnetic fields, the rotor doesn't go faster, but the speedo continues to pile in the energy. The only thing the energy can do is convert to heat, and the high current drain goes on and on, instead of reducing as the revs rise.

What v203 is doing is letting you put in as much timing as the motor can use (and some other clever tricks, I am sure! ) through the 'rpm' settings, and letting you use more timing. However, if you use all of everything, then you will put in more timing than you can use, generate more heat through drawing more current, and then notice a drop-off. That's excluding the effect of too much heat in the motor, which will also cause drop off.

Whilst all this interaction and Q and A is interesting, it seems to me that if you get any serious drop-off, you have done something wrong. Some drop-off is inevitable due to reduced battery voltage, but we used to get that with NiMh anyway, so it's nothing new.

Let's remember that the AE BD had no turbo, yet smoked almost everyone in Vegas and Cleveland. I believe Tekin have sussed out what they were doing, and improved on it. So, why would I use Turbo Boost? Only because the straight was long enough, the motor was at maximum rpm already and used all the timing available, and could use more. With correct gearing, Timing Boost and rev range, there should be no need for Turbo Boost.

Nonetheless, it is very important to remember that if you see a noticeable drop-off, you're doing something wrong. Try and do without Turbo Boost indoors, and you will find that things improve, especially lap times and drop-off. Just my 2c, and I hope it helps.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:13 PM   #9923
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What is a good setup for an RS with a Ballistic 17.5 for a TC? End bell timing setting? Hotwire settings?
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:27 PM   #9924
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OK I've gone over this thread and loaded my cars with V203.

From all of this, this is what I take from it with V203 software:

1. Keep static motor timing small (0 to 10deg max!) (you want the torque at the start till boost kicks in)
2. Boost between 35 and 50 (less with lower turn)
3. RPM window to match approx speed of car through average corner speed
(ex: car is 10km/h in the corners = ~2560RPM on a 12th scale with 65 MMPR, start turbo ramp there...end near top speed 3/4 down the longest straight...adjust accordingly). 17.5TC 5000ish to 15000ish
4. Turbo only as last bit on long straight..no less than 0.5s delay.
5. Throttle profile to your driving style (best to use linear)
6. Some drag brake (brushless rolls freely). 10ish in 12th, 20-30ish in TC
7. Turbo ramp 1 or 2
8. 13.5 12th ~ 60 to 70mmpr (per track); 17.5TC ~ 5 to 6 FDR. Adjust per track.

Let me know if this makes sense to all of you out there.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:38 PM   #9925
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Im running touring car with an xray T2 009, I have bought an rs pro and loaded the new v203 software. has any one run a Novak Ballistic 13.5 with the new software ??? Im running on a high grip carpet track with rubber tyres. The lap times are around 13 - 14 seconds and the track lay out changes every meeting.
I need a good base set up to start with and overal gear ratio would be good. Im scarred I will fry a motor. We dont get the chance for any practise at this track so any help would be really help full
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:38 PM   #9926
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
So then does anyone know the kv rating of the Duo2 17.5? Tried looking on Team Epic's site and couldn't find it.
I would like to know the same! Anybody?
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:17 PM   #9927
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I would like to know the same! Anybody?
Weren't the spec's supposed to be on the side of each Epic Duo 2 box?
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:23 PM   #9928
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Mine wasn't in a box.
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:24 PM   #9929
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Mine wasn't in a box.
I will look at my box when I get home and post the specs, that is unless someone beats me to it.
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:26 PM   #9930
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