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Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored

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Old 12-13-2009, 01:02 PM
  #8596  
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there was some one using a mac,he had a program to run the hotwire software but cant remember who
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cannondale1974 View Post
I agree it's a bit of a pain to unplug the connector from the receiver every time you want to hook up to the hotwire. Is it possible to splice in a Y connector and leave the ESC connector plugged into the receiver all the time?

Anyone have any input on this? Thanks.
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
there was some one using a mac,he had a program to run the hotwire software but cant remember who
I'd like to see this. I know a lot of people that would
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Cannondale1974 View Post
Anyone have any input on this? Thanks.
I thought about the same but I did not know if the receiver would not impact the data transfer as the receiver would remain connected.
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by oze View Post
I thought about the same but I did not know if the receiver would not impact the data transfer as the receiver would remain connected.
Exactly. I'd love to get Randy at Tekin's opinion on this.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cannondale1974 View Post
Exactly. I'd love to get Randy at Tekin's opinion on this.
Somewhere it was posted where someone tried this, and they found that the power consumption of the receiver, and servo was more than the usb port could provide.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cannondale1974 View Post
I agree it's a bit of a pain to unplug the connector from the receiver every time you want to hook up to the hotwire. Is it possible to splice in a Y connector and leave the ESC connector plugged into the receiver all the time?
You can't have the receiver connected and powered up because it will put out signal and hoze things up. If you want to use a y harness it's going to have to have a switch that will disable the receiver (splice a switch in the positive lead to the receiver). I haven't tried this but it should work.

I just unplug from the receiver personally. It's not a big deal for me.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
Your speedo is seeing the wrong motor type. If you're running brushless, it thinks you are hooked up to a brushed motor. Check all of your solder joints to make sure that there are no bridges to ground out different poles. That should take care of it.

nope I double checked
bl-fw, checked all solder clean, no bridges

still 4 lights flashing and not chimes/beeps even when recal????

still no workie
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Old 12-13-2009, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Casey Belarde View Post
nope I double checked
bl-fw, checked all solder clean, no bridges

still 4 lights flashing and not chimes/beeps even when recal????

still no workie
Which LEDs are flashing? Knowing which ones are lit will help us sort out the problem.

The only thing I could recommend is checking the LiPo voltage cutoff - I know several people ran into a similar problem if the cutoff was set for 3S instead of 2S, which could cause the ESC to stop responding.
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Which LEDs are flashing? Knowing which ones are lit will help us sort out the problem.

The only thing I could recommend is checking the LiPo voltage cutoff - I know several people ran into a similar problem if the cutoff was set for 3S instead of 2S, which could cause the ESC to stop responding.
He stated that the first two, and last two are flashing,,, indicating wrong motor.

I would try a factory reset, described in the owners manual, and than reset your settings with hotwire.
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Casey Belarde View Post
nope I double checked
bl-fw, checked all solder clean, no bridges

still 4 lights flashing and not chimes/beeps even when recal????

still no workie
I had the same problem initially. I ended up taking the wires off completely and found a small sliver of solder that had dropped to the bottom of the poles. Removed the sliver, problem solved. If there is excess on the motor, it will do the same thing.
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Old 12-13-2009, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
I had the same problem initially. I ended up taking the wires off completely and found a small sliver of solder that had dropped to the bottom of the poles. Removed the sliver, problem solved. If there is excess on the motor, it will do the same thing.
ok i wil double check
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Old 12-13-2009, 06:08 PM
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Led's 12 and 67 show wrong motor type. This could be caused by a bad motor, bad esc, bad wiring.

Check the esc with a known good motor first.
Sounds like you already checked the wiring...
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Led's 12 and 67 show wrong motor type. This could be caused by a bad motor, bad esc, bad wiring.

Check the esc with a known good motor first.
Sounds like you already checked the wiring...

led's 12 and 67 the same as DB,BS,MT,VC?????

I have tried all my motors and no luck, sometimes if I roll the motor over it does it's normal thing with the flashes anyway but no sound, then when pulling throttle all led light up then flash normal but motor inop

could it be just a bad ESC or a fluke that all 3 motors went T.U ???

thanks for all the help
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:59 PM
  #8610  
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Originally Posted by Casey Belarde View Post
led's 12 and 67 the same as DB,BS,MT,VC?????

I have tried all my motors and no luck, sometimes if I roll the motor over it does it's normal thing with the flashes anyway but no sound, then when pulling throttle all led light up then flash normal but motor inop

could it be just a bad ESC or a fluke that all 3 motors went T.U ???

thanks for all the help
can you post a pic of your wiring?? did you get the a-b-c part correct on the motor to speedo?? do you have a bad sensor wire?? will the esc work with the hot wire?? jeremy
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