R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-11-2009, 04:34 PM   #8551
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 561
Default ARRGHH! Frustrated (my own fault)

Well fellas, spent all night getting the EVO 5 MS ready, wiring in the new Tekin RS and Yokomo 10.5 brushless motor, only to get thwarted by the damn ESC connector that goes into the receiver!

After I got it all hooked up I was like, duh, unplug the ESC from the receiver so I can plug it into the Hotwire and program my initial settings...

Of course the connector is new so it fit in the receiver very snug and I broke the damn thing trying to get it out! I couldn't get it out using my hands so I used a set of needle nose pliers to try and wiggle it out. Started to work until I slipped my pliers across the face of the connector which broke one of the tabs that holds the pin in it!

ARRGH!

I have some spare connectors, and what do you know, none of them "catch" the pins.

I'm just frustrated because I was so looking forward to racing tomorrow. Tomorrow is our first race using new 2010 fiscal year rules in Expert class, which now allow the Yokomo 10.5 brushless motor in addition to any 23T brushed motor - only catch is that the 10.5 is limited to a final drive of 6.0 or higher (gear ratios for 23T are usually 5.8 for our track). Plus, it's a non-points race, so it's a chance to see how the car will do in competition without affecting the season leaderboard.

I rebuilt my EVO 5 MS from the ground up, and changed my one-way for a spool up front - figured everyone will be so fast with the 10.5 they'll have to let off way to early on the main straight to make the first turn using a one-way, and with a spool I can can stay on the power for longer and get by by late-braking them into the corner (it used to work when I raced Nitro touring with gear diffs). I may be fighting understeer though into the corner with the spool up front, but we'll see.

Anyway, yeah, I'm a little frustrated. I think my LHS carries the KO propo connectors w/pins. I'll check it out today, but I won't have any testing done at the track to be prepared for tomorrow.

I'm bummed because I'm the only one who is using an ESC with advanced timing controls, and until everyone catches on, I may have a slight advantage It's weird, here in Japan, they'll all use the latest chassis, tire warmers, etc, etc, but for some things, we're way behind - for example, our rules call for NiMh's still, and are limited at 3700mah at that. There is only one battery even worth running at 3700, and that's the Atlantis 3700, from Intellect Japan. EVERYONE runs them - I don't even think you can get them outside Japan, and no one else makes a 3700 worth running that I know of. At least when I'm getting beat, it's not because of the power source, so it makes for some close racing.

I'll let you know how it all pans out once I get my connector sorted. Maybe it was a sign, telling me to shorten up the ESC wires while I'm at it.



- Paulie
pgeldz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 06:32 PM   #8552
Company Representative
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,742
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pgeldz View Post
Well fellas, spent all night getting the EVO 5 MS ready, wiring in the new Tekin RS and Yokomo 10.5 brushless motor, only to get thwarted by the damn ESC connector that goes into the receiver!

After I got it all hooked up I was like, duh, unplug the ESC from the receiver so I can plug it into the Hotwire and program my initial settings...

Of course the connector is new so it fit in the receiver very snug and I broke the damn thing trying to get it out! I couldn't get it out using my hands so I used a set of needle nose pliers to try and wiggle it out. Started to work until I slipped my pliers across the face of the connector which broke one of the tabs that holds the pin in it!

ARRGH!

I have some spare connectors, and what do you know, none of them "catch" the pins.

I'm just frustrated because I was so looking forward to racing tomorrow. Tomorrow is our first race using new 2010 fiscal year rules in Expert class, which now allow the Yokomo 10.5 brushless motor in addition to any 23T brushed motor - only catch is that the 10.5 is limited to a final drive of 6.0 or higher (gear ratios for 23T are usually 5.8 for our track). Plus, it's a non-points race, so it's a chance to see how the car will do in competition without affecting the season leaderboard.

I rebuilt my EVO 5 MS from the ground up, and changed my one-way for a spool up front - figured everyone will be so fast with the 10.5 they'll have to let off way to early on the main straight to make the first turn using a one-way, and with a spool I can can stay on the power for longer and get by by late-braking them into the corner (it used to work when I raced Nitro touring with gear diffs). I may be fighting understeer though into the corner with the spool up front, but we'll see.

Anyway, yeah, I'm a little frustrated. I think my LHS carries the KO propo connectors w/pins. I'll check it out today, but I won't have any testing done at the track to be prepared for tomorrow.

I'm bummed because I'm the only one who is using an ESC with advanced timing controls, and until everyone catches on, I may have a slight advantage It's weird, here in Japan, they'll all use the latest chassis, tire warmers, etc, etc, but for some things, we're way behind - for example, our rules call for NiMh's still, and are limited at 3700mah at that. There is only one battery even worth running at 3700, and that's the Atlantis 3700, from Intellect Japan. EVERYONE runs them - I don't even think you can get them outside Japan, and no one else makes a 3700 worth running that I know of. At least when I'm getting beat, it's not because of the power source, so it makes for some close racing.

I'll let you know how it all pans out once I get my connector sorted. Maybe it was a sign, telling me to shorten up the ESC wires while I'm at it.



- Paulie
you can put a Y connector or stick a battery tape over the connector to pull.
SweepRacingUSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 07:14 PM   #8553
Tech Elite
 
tallyrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: palm city, fl
Posts: 2,594
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

I superglued a little lexan tab on my plug.
__________________
WWW.STORMERHOBBIES.COM helping keep pan cars alive!

Turns out not where, but who your with that really matters... DMB
tallyrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 08:02 PM   #8554
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 561
Default

Well, when I first started pulling on it, my finger nail cut into the wire casing and now I have some exposed wire before where the pin is crimped on.

I'll just re-do it with a new connector, crimp it AND solder, and then I'll use battery tape for next time.

Plus, I believe the KO connectors don't have the little guide tab on the side, which should make it easier to actually pull out.

I'm headed to my LHS now actually.



- Paulie
pgeldz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 03:08 AM   #8555
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Behind my Tx
Posts: 214
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default Is there a limit to timing advance?

I am not sure how to put my question clearly in writing so here goes.

My question is whether there is a maximum amount of timing advance/retard we can apply to any motor. We know a full turn is 360 degrees so 361 degrees is basically 1 degree. So since there are a few poles in each motor, is this theory applicable in a motor?

For EXAMPLE if we advance to a certain timing (say X) beyond say 60 degrees the actual timing advance will be:

Actual Timing = X deg - 60 deg?

Hope someone understands what I am trying to ask.

Sorry if I was wasting your time.
radwerx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 03:41 AM   #8556
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,940
Default

Is there anywhere a datasheet with KV ratings for Tekin redline motors? I can't believe they don't have one on their website, but I can't find it.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 04:01 AM   #8557
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by radwerx View Post
I am not sure how to put my question clearly in writing so here goes.

My question is whether there is a maximum amount of timing advance/retard we can apply to any motor. We know a full turn is 360 degrees so 361 degrees is basically 1 degree. So since there are a few poles in each motor, is this theory applicable in a motor?

For EXAMPLE if we advance to a certain timing (say X) beyond say 60 degrees the actual timing advance will be:

Actual Timing = X deg - 60 deg?

Hope someone understands what I am trying to ask.

Sorry if I was wasting your time.
Basic idea is not to exceed 45 - 48 degrees of timing on the combination of motor, boost and turbo. 30 - 35 degrees max on esc timing
Motor timing we dont know exactly what the motor timing is so on fixed timing motors most of which is around 12 degrees.
motor timing + boost + turbo = 50 degrees max on a fast track.
If you keep adding timing you will notice a high speed cogging/jerking action, this will be where the esc is carrying timing into the next phase which will overheat and cause failure.
As soon as you notice this on the main straight id suggest backing timing by 4 to 5 degrees
__________________
Casterracing ZX1.5R
casterracing EX-1 Pro, SP Silver Arrow
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 17.5, SP GT Pro 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 4.5 V2, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 13.5, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
razzor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 05:39 AM   #8558
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,140
Trader Rating: 114 (100%+)
Default

SOFTWARE - one thing that I with TEKIN would fix!

How about making the softwares GUI more intuitive? It takes up half the screen with these cartoon graphics and sometimes you have to click on things twice to make them happen. How about a nice, simple and clean interface? Simple sliders and real buttons work wonders!
Chris Furman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 06:46 AM   #8559
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Behind my Tx
Posts: 214
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
Basic idea is not to exceed 45 - 48 degrees of timing on the combination of motor, boost and turbo. 30 - 35 degrees max on esc timing
Motor timing we dont know exactly what the motor timing is so on fixed timing motors most of which is around 12 degrees.
motor timing + boost + turbo = 50 degrees max on a fast track.
If you keep adding timing you will notice a high speed cogging/jerking action, this will be where the esc is carrying timing into the next phase which will overheat and cause failure.
As soon as you notice this on the main straight id suggest backing timing by 4 to 5 degrees
Thanks man. Exactly what I needed to know. So do you happen to know the motor timing for an SP Ultrasportsman 11.5T? Thanks man.
radwerx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 09:02 AM   #8560
Tech Master
 
cyanyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: KL, MY.
Posts: 1,039
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by radwerx View Post
Thanks man. Exactly what I needed to know. So do you happen to know the motor timing for an SP Ultrasportsman 11.5T? Thanks man.
12 degrees.
__________________
/Adrian.

RC FB Pages Subscribed:
facebook.com/EPBuggy
facebook.com/AllStarChampionship
cyanyde is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 09:39 AM   #8561
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 997
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Stuttering start

I wonder if anybody can help. Running a Tekin RS, Tekin 17.5 12th scale for two race nights. After 4 qualies, at the start of the main the car does not respond instantly to throttle - it kind of stutter starts. Once its going its fine. After the first nights racing I changed the sensor wire. Just strange that it doesn't seem to do it in the first few runs. If anybody's got any ideas, it would be much appreciated.
__________________
Cheers,

Kev
notsocrazybrit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 10:33 AM   #8562
Tech Regular
 
Official's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Singapore
Posts: 474
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by notsocrazybrit View Post
I wonder if anybody can help. Running a Tekin RS, Tekin 17.5 12th scale for two race nights. After 4 qualies, at the start of the main the car does not respond instantly to throttle - it kind of stutter starts. Once its going its fine. After the first nights racing I changed the sensor wire. Just strange that it doesn't seem to do it in the first few runs. If anybody's got any ideas, it would be much appreciated.
Most prob the sensors are not working. Got this problem when i matched Team Powers 11.5t with Tekin RSpro. nBut Switch to another brand is ok. Most prob the sensors in your red line might be faulty
__________________
Chassis :4WD = CEFX Photon,TA-05|2WD = Xevo, M05PRO, FF-03Pro, Kysho Evola M3, Kyosho V-One RRR Shimo, Team C TC02
ESC :Brushless - Tekin RS-Pro, Keyence Tachyon|Brushed - Tekin FX-Pro
www.hiro-seiko.com ; www.cefx.net
e-mail: [email protected]
Official is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 10:50 AM   #8563
Tech Elite
 
LOSI123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Gold Coast-Australia
Posts: 2,616
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pgeldz View Post
Well, when I first started pulling on it, my finger nail cut into the wire casing and now I have some exposed wire before where the pin is crimped on.

I'll just re-do it with a new connector, crimp it AND solder, and then I'll use battery tape for next time.

Plus, I believe the KO connectors don't have the little guide tab on the side, which should make it easier to actually pull out.

I'm headed to my LHS now actually.



- Paulie
I honestly believe the conectors that come on the tekin esc's are far to tight, i run a 100mmm servo extension which means its a different plug going in into my rx.

I have cracked the solder joints on the pins in specktrum rx because of this in the past

I think tekin make em tight as they know you will be pluging it in and out heaps for using the hotwire, but i beleive they are far too tight.
LOSI123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 11:02 AM   #8564
Tech Elite
 
TommyBlazin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: jersey
Posts: 2,580
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Im sure its been answered before, i just cant locate answer.. i have to hook up my tq booster to my rs, 1c appy...what is the proper order of doing so, and than if both switches are still present, wich order turning on, thanks in advance


tommy
__________________
Thinking on maybe a Tekno 1/8 Nitro Buggy?
TommyBlazin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 11:12 AM   #8565
oze
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Budapest, Hungary
Posts: 142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Anyone else notice Randy hasn't been on in 3 weeks? He must be working on something big! (I hope).
He was on a week ago on the 6th.
oze is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tekin Redline RS Sensored ESC and motors, opinions for offroad? Cain Electric Off-Road 4230 06-07-2015 04:38 PM
Sensored vs. Sensorless lemansracer Electric On-Road 71 02-14-2009 03:19 AM
New Tekin Redline Sensored Motors are Roar Legal! Randy_Pike Electric On-Road 3 08-05-2008 02:08 AM
Tekin Redline Sensored 10.5 HUCKMAN Electric On-Road 6 07-15-2008 08:50 PM
sensored vs sensorless bprocket Rookie Zone 5 05-16-2008 09:38 AM


Tags
v203, vegas 2.0


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:25 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net