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Old 08-20-2008, 07:18 AM   #811
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My personal recomendations for guys running TC 13.5/10.5 would be to start out in sensored only, max motor timing and adjust MOTOR timing from there. The timing bar on the Hotwire only affects the timing while in dual mode. In sensored only it's negated.

In mod, the timing being that far advanced isn't a great thing. It's a motor by motor basis but we've found that too much timing simply creates heat. So that's where a setup like MO's works best. However if you're using 5 cell I'd recomend Sensored only mode similiar to the 13.5/10.5 due to the lower voltages.

General mod setup for 6 cell could be say a 4T using 70 on the timing bar. The motor timing isn't utilized at all in dual mode so where it's set won't matter.

Things like throttle profiles is a user decided option. I prefer mine to be very linear(TP 3) but Jeff has his set to be quite agressive using TP 5.

Here's the RS thread:

http://www.teamtekin.com/forums/topi...8&whichpage=19
Ive found the motor to get much hotter (30+ degrees hotter) in sensored only mode with everything else equal. Why is that? Motor timing as it came out of the box and ESC timing set to the recommended setting for a 10.5 in hotwire. Same gearing.
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Old 08-20-2008, 10:30 AM   #812
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If all you did was go from hybrid to sensored only you increased your timing greatly especially if the motor timing is set to full.

You will end up slightly overgeared. I'd bet that more speed would be found if you altered your gearing, changed your motor timing up to full(if you haven't already) and re gear.
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:19 PM   #813
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Ive found the motor to get much hotter (30+ degrees hotter) in sensored only mode with everything else equal. Why is that? Motor timing as it came out of the box and ESC timing set to the recommended setting for a 10.5 in hotwire. Same gearing.
But how hot is 30 degrees hotter? If it's not running over 160-170f, it is not too hot. For 10.5 with a novak motor, I run max timing on the motor, sensored only mode and geared 5.3-5.5:1 depending on track size.
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Old 08-21-2008, 01:11 PM   #814
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
My personal recomendations for guys running TC 13.5/10.5 would be to start out in sensored only, max motor timing and adjust MOTOR timing from there. The timing bar on the Hotwire only affects the timing while in dual mode. In sensored only it's negated.
My SpeedPassion 13.5 does not have adjustable timing. What would you recommend now? Running in dual mode with 90% timing in the Hotwire?
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Old 08-21-2008, 03:11 PM   #815
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That is going to depend on how much timin SP has built into the motor. The best thing to do would be to do a few test runs. First get a base gearing recommendation from someone else that is running that same motor at your track and then make the test runs. 1 in sensored mode, 1 in dual mode with 90% timing and 1 with 100% timing and see which feels best. Make sure you only run for 5 minutes though so you can check the temp of the motor after a normal race distance.
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Old 08-21-2008, 04:19 PM   #816
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I have kept a decent eye on this thread and have yet to see this discussed... It may be because not too many people race 12th mod carpet. Any recommended starting settings for the RS running mild mods (I.E. 10.5 - 5.5)? I just want to get my feet wet and would like a starting point. I will probably eventually need to move up to an RS-Pro. Thanks.
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Old 08-21-2008, 07:25 PM   #817
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But how hot is 30 degrees hotter? If it's not running over 160-170f, it is not too hot. For 10.5 with a novak motor, I run max timing on the motor, sensored only mode and geared 5.3-5.5:1 depending on track size.
160 v 190. Its a Losi motor so its unclear what the timing on the motor is. Wasn't changed from what it was out of the package. Gearing was a 4.9 FDR
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:16 PM   #818
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I have kept a decent eye on this thread and have yet to see this discussed... It may be because not too many people race 12th mod carpet. Any recommended starting settings for the RS running mild mods (I.E. 10.5 - 5.5)? I just want to get my feet wet and would like a starting point. I will probably eventually need to move up to an RS-Pro. Thanks.
For high wind motors (17.5 to 10.5) get the gearing close and adjust the timing to get the speed that you need on the straight (start low and work up). Sometimes you'll have to gear back down a little when adding timing.

For mod, gearing can be a little tricky. I really haven't run many of the high wind motors but here's how I gear the low wind stuff (5.5 and 4.5). I run the timing as high as I can without overheating the speedo (I'm quite good at shutting speedo's down). Gear up until the motor accelerates hard onto the straight, falls flat in the middle, and takes off again at the end of the straight. As soon as the car starts falling flat in the middle of the straight you can either turn the timing down a little (more infield punch) or gear down (rev out earlier). Once you have it geared right, it will pull for the entire straight and not overheat the motor.

If you're super overeared in mod, it will be a rocket for 6 minutes and then shut down the speedo. Might even dump.
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:43 PM   #819
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For high wind motors (17.5 to 10.5) get the gearing close and adjust the timing to get the speed that you need on the straight (start low and work up). Sometimes you'll have to gear back down a little when adding timing.

For mod, gearing can be a little tricky. I really haven't run many of the high wind motors but here's how I gear the low wind stuff (5.5 and 4.5). I run the timing as high as I can without overheating the speedo (I'm quite good at shutting speedo's down). Gear up until the motor accelerates hard onto the straight, falls flat in the middle, and takes off again at the end of the straight. As soon as the car starts falling flat in the middle of the straight you can either turn the timing down a little (more infield punch) or gear down (rev out earlier). Once you have it geared right, it will pull for the entire straight and not overheat the motor.

If you're super overeared in mod, it will be a rocket for 6 minutes and then shut down the speedo. Might even dump.
for low wind motors like the 3.5,4.5, 5.5 you want less timing
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:30 PM   #820
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When I set my lipo cutoff to 2S (6.0V) through Hotwire, I get the flashing 1,3,5 LED warning that the cutoff has been tripped, even though my pack is full (tried several packs). When I adjust it down (I randomly tried 3.0V) the car runs fine.

Anyone else have this issue?
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:47 PM   #821
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When I set my lipo cutoff to 2S (6.0V) through Hotwire, I get the flashing 1,3,5 LED warning that the cutoff has been tripped, even though my pack is full (tried several packs). When I adjust it down (I randomly tried 3.0V) the car runs fine.

Anyone else have this issue?
I think the setting is for "per cell", so setting to 6V is setting 12V. How's your setup with the SP 13.5 going?
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:04 PM   #822
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I think the setting is for "per cell", so setting to 6V is setting 12V. How's your setup with the SP 13.5 going?
I don't think so -- in Hotwire you select it as "2S lipo: 6.0V" so there's not much room for interpretation. What's worse, the problem is intermittent. It'll be working, then you'll turn it off and on again and the warning will be there. Then if you turn it off and wait a while it'll power up fine. Then you'll wait a while again and turn it on and off a few times and get the warning, then randomly it'll power on fine. Maybe the charge in the capacitor has to bleed off or something. I may also be doing something wrong. I'll call Tekin in the morning and see what they think.

Anyway, I just ran it out in the street a little in both "sensored only" and dual mode. Didn't run too long as the street's really dirty and the car fills up with crap quickly. It seemed faster in dual. I'll be racing it Sunday and will run a heat each way -- the lap times will tell the tale.

Bottom line though is that the thing runs like a scalded ape. Crushes my "outlaw" 27T which was pretty damn fast. I'll have to take a Valium to fall asleep Saturday night I'm so excited to race it Sunday.
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:11 PM   #823
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OK, do update on what Tekin says. All the best on your race!

BTW, I thought 27T is closer to 17.5 rather than 13.5? What FDR are you running? on your TA05?
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:30 PM   #824
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OK, do update on what Tekin says. All the best on your race!

BTW, I thought 27T is closer to 17.5 rather than 13.5? What FDR are you running? on your TA05?
Well, it is. Our club still runs 13.5 as "stock" so that's what I've been up against with my 27T. It's a Team Br00d ball bearing Epic motor that I ran with an FDR of about 7.88. It's a great motor and that was good enough for a 3rd place and a 2nd place in Sportsman Stock. I'm starting with an FDR of 4.6 with the SP 13.5. We have a medium-sized asphalt track with a technical infield.
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:47 PM   #825
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I have kept a decent eye on this thread and have yet to see this discussed... It may be because not too many people race 12th mod carpet. Any recommended starting settings for the RS running mild mods (I.E. 10.5 - 5.5)? I just want to get my feet wet and would like a starting point. I will probably eventually need to move up to an RS-Pro. Thanks.
Gearing recommendations for 1/12th:
Motor 10.5: I ran my Tekin R1 with timing setting on 80 and a gearing of about 45-48mm (low timing doesnt work on 4 cells).
Didnt run a 5.5 before, but a 6.5 I geared at 35mm so your 5.5 will be 33 or so. Timing, pretty high I'd think, remember you're running 4 cells. Just make sure you reach the 8 minute mark without running out of battery
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