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Old 08-11-2008, 06:48 AM   #706
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
What would you guys think of the combo of the RS speedo and the Speed Passion 13.5 in the meantime?
what Speedpassion motor? 13.5?? My saettings with the SP13.5 was 85% timing and geared at a 3.84FDR and it was FAST!
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:15 AM   #707
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Is it okay to remove those posts and solder your wires directly to the board? It sure seems like it would be easy to get a wire yanked off a post in a collision or something. The +/- battery terminals being right next to each other kinda makes me uncomfortable.
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:27 AM   #708
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After soldering, why not slip some shrink tubing over the wires down to the B+ / B- posts to act as an insulator?

If you try to get the posts out, you might overheat the board(s), since the top and bottom layer would have to be unsoldered at the same time in order to pull the posts out of the hole. You might need to cut the posts off and desolder the remains one piece at a time. Or use two irons and 4 hands.

Probably not recommended...
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:32 AM   #709
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Both are bad ideas as the posts serve as heatsinks, you will be at more risk to go into thermal shutdown if you remove them or put heatshrink around them. Besides you will definately lose the warranty. Last thing if you're using a RS pro there are 2 fet boards for the solder posts to get connected to.

I've been using tekin speedos for 4 years now, even the G11 had solder posts with two being quite close to each other, and I never had an issue.
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:33 AM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Is it okay to remove those posts and solder your wires directly to the board? It sure seems like it would be easy to get a wire yanked off a post in a collision or something. The +/- battery terminals being right next to each other kinda makes me uncomfortable.
You could but I bet there would be a huge increase in operating temperatures, those posts act as a heat sink coming off the FET boards....Plus it is almost impossible to get those posts out without re-organizing some of the components on the boards, lol. I wouldn't do it, it would probably kill some performance. I have never heard of, or had, a problem with shorting the posts together ever. It could happen if a wire was cold soldered on and broke off during impact, but that would be the ESC's solder tech's fault.
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:35 AM   #711
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You could but I bet there would be a huge increase in operating temperatures, those posts act as a heat sink coming off the FET boards....Plus it is almost impossible to get those posts out without re-organizing some of the components on the boards, lol. I wouldn't do it, it would probably kill some performance. I have never heard of, or had, a problem with shorting the posts together ever. It could happen if a wire was cold soldered on and broke off during impact, but that would be the ESC's solder tech's fault.
Thanks for the reply. I have deep concerns about this particular solder tech's ability!

Out of curiosity, why did you guys opt to put the battery posts together? This is the only brushless ESC I've seen where there's not some physical separation between them.
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:41 AM   #712
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LOL, I'm sure you can solder just fine, I didn't mean anything by it. I've just seen some crazy soldering come in on repairs, couple for the record books!

It really just worked out that way with the PCB layout and we figured it would be no less dangerous than having the three phase posts close to each other, or batt posts on the outside of the phase trio..Any of them touching any others is a bad deal, so we just laid it out simple to keep it the same from ESC to ESC. Only one we messed up on was the B1 because it was the first one done.
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:55 AM   #713
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I actually put shrink wrap on one of the battery posts. Mainly because ive been told that shorting a LiPo can damage it pretty bad.

I know its not good for cooling but i prefer not to take the risk.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:01 PM   #714
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Another idea for insulating the posts from each other is a piece of fiberglass between the posts (broken 12th scale t-plates are ideal sources of material) shoe gooed to the case, not the posts. It doesn't cut down on the cooling as much as heatshrink will and allows you to extend it to the top, which is where the short would happen.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:34 PM   #715
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Does the sensored redline motors come with sensor wires? If so are they more flexible then the LRP ones?
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:57 PM   #716
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tekin rs pros back in stock $209.99 shipped!! along with hotwires and rs's

www.highvelocityracing.com
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:50 PM   #717
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The RS series is defaulted in dual mode. The Hotwire will be required to put the unit into Sensored only. You're truly missing out on the features of any of the our new esc's if you don't have a Hotwire. There are software updates as well as custom profiles(soon) that can be shared between users.

The idea is to be able to download Jeff Cuff's profile, Jason Moberly's, Mike Dumas's or any other team drivers profile.

You want to be fast like these guys? Grab their profile!
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:29 PM   #718
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You want to be fast like these guys? Grab their profile!
Hehe, if only it were that easy
But the file sharing is certainly nice.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:40 PM   #719
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13.5 and 10.5 touring
Back down timing on 10.5 if motor temp gets to high
Sensored only mode
90% timing
throttle profile 5
drag brake 50
break strength 60
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:47 PM   #720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs View Post
13.5 and 10.5 touring
Back down timing on 10.5 if motor temp gets to high
Sensored only mode
90% timing
throttle profile 5
drag brake 50
break strength 60
Thank you!
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