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Old 09-14-2009, 09:51 AM   #6991
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sorry for noob question:
Is the RS/RS pro/R1/R1 pro.. all can be programed with same firmware? with same hotwire?
And will get same advantage/improvement only less in amp. handling, right?
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:27 PM   #6992
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Originally Posted by radwerx View Post
The 3522 is what i'm currently thinking of as my chassis has little space for another module. Are you adding the new TOP cap on top of the tekin cap or are you removing the tekin cap?
replace the current fitted one with a new cap.
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:55 PM   #6993
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Originally Posted by radwerx View Post
Hi. Have been running an RS Pro but a short while and am enjoying the power and flexibility. As I am running a 4 turn brushless most of the time I understand it is advised to run another capacitor in parallel?

As I'm not too good with capacitance, my questions are:

1. Will I have to go with another capacitor with the exact same rating as the original one?

2. Can I 'upsize' the capacitor with one like the following Speed Passion one and remove the original one altogether? http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/s...82&osCsid=aac2

3. Can I run a capacitor rated for a higher voltage? If so what sort of specs should I look for?

Thanks for your patience and sorry for my nOObness.
You might find it helpful to read the material on capacitors in here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6309929-post6855.html
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:40 PM   #6994
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No harm in installing a second cap in parallel with the original one rite?
Will be adding the one from TOP racing and running a 6.5T redline..

Cheers!
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:10 PM   #6995
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I run a single 16v 1000uf cap with my 6.5 and I have no problems what so ever.
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:03 PM   #6996
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The cap we spec isn't just a plain cap. It's a special cap. Two of our caps should be enough for the toughtest mod classes. I'd rather see two of our caps over a single 1000uf cap.

If you're in a pinch though it will get you through.
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:05 PM   #6997
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The cap we spec isn't just a plain cap. It's a special cap. Two of our caps should be enough for the toughtest mod classes. I'd rather see two of our caps over a single 1000uf cap.

If you're in a pinch though it will get you through.
Even the large quality tekin cap you speak of??
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:06 PM   #6998
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Originally Posted by MarkBrown View Post
You might find it helpful to read the material on capacitors in here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6309929-post6855.html
Mark.. you have WAY too much free time on your hands amigo! Good job... Everything in your doc should be copy and pasted onto post#1 in this thread.

I also like the beginners guide you put together on the club's website. Its nice to see people dedicate their time for the benefit of the hobby, rather than the benefit of themselves.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 09-14-2009 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:19 AM   #6999
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The cap we spec isn't just a plain cap. It's a special cap. Two of our caps should be enough for the toughtest mod classes. I'd rather see two of our caps over a single 1000uf cap.

If you're in a pinch though it will get you through.


Thks for the V200 Randy!

BTW, Power caps are sooo difficult to find in Singapore.... Had to order online...
perhaps you could suggest to our local dealers to bring in some?
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:48 AM   #7000
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I believe the Speed Passion super capacitors use 25v caps... not sure what difference this makes over the 16v ones, but the one I blew up (wired it up back to front - oops) definitely had 25v caps.
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:20 AM   #7001
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I believe the Speed Passion super capacitors use 25v caps... not sure what difference this makes over the 16v ones, but the one I blew up (wired it up back to front - oops) definitely had 25v caps.
Higher voltage ratings on capacitors suggest the voltage where the dielectric starts leaking current.

High capacity (not voltage) is in principle a good sign of the capacitor potential to store a large charge but in high frequency applications their impedace increase and start behaving as resistors, effectively suppressing the higher frequencies. This is an advantage in our application, but as suggested above if they charge too slowly, (slow recovery rate) they can become useless. High capacity of course is slower to charge than low capacity so there is a point (capacity value) where you have to have a fast capacitor to make use of its higher capacity. This is why sometimes is better to use more capacitors (of lower capacity) in parallel as their values add up.
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:10 AM   #7002
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Wow all these power cap discussions when i have a problem! what are the chances Got a race meet tomorrow and my cap has snapped off from the base. The only thing i have that could possibly use is a cap from a KO VFS-1 old brushed speedie. Is it advisable to run it while i chase down a replacement? Quick response would be awesome, really should be in bed now.

I have a RS pro running 17.5 Brushless.

Thanks in advance,
Steve


P.S the cap i have is at the bottom of the page
http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...=82&Itemid=140
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Last edited by myan_gsr; 09-15-2009 at 07:13 AM. Reason: added details
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:32 AM   #7003
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As long as the cap is still good you should be fine with a 17.5
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:41 AM   #7004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDriver View Post
sorry for noob question:
Is the RS/RS pro/R1/R1 pro.. all can be programed with same firmware? with same hotwire?
And will get same advantage/improvement only less in amp. handling, right?
Yes, the hotwire works for all tekin escs; brushless an brushed alike.

The only difference is what turn motors the rs and the rs pro can handle. If you run a 17.5 on both there will be no difference.
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:10 AM   #7005
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
Yes, the hotwire works for all tekin escs; brushless an brushed alike.

The only difference is what turn motors the rs and the rs pro can handle. If you run a 17.5 on both there will be no difference.
Along this same line, would I notice a discernible difference between the RS and RS Pro in 10.5 1/12 scale? What about with an 8.5 in an RC10B4? Aside from the Redline motors, are there any others that would be recommended to use? (just in case I can't get a hold of the pair together, this stuff is super pricey in Germany...) Thanks!!!
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