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Old 09-04-2009, 04:44 PM   #6811
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I don't want to sit on a pedistal but normaly when i buy something new i read every page on every forum about that product. Hell, i read the pancar thread in the oval section on here for 10 times or something from beginning to the end and it is almost 1000 pages long! Don't you want to know as much info about a product/car/class as possible
he may of read the manual, dnt expect customer to have the time to read 100's pages on which most of wont contain there answer there looking for. if that was the condition of user support i wouldn't buy the product. what whould be great. is there a simple faq maybe there would be less repeated questions. that being said. is it that hard to retype a answer.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:44 PM   #6812
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was just gona try a bigger one. what in theory should it do?

also what would the effect be to not running one then running one?

cheers
ricky
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:49 PM   #6813
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was just gona try a bigger one. what in theory should it do?

also what would the effect be to not running one then running one?

cheers
ricky
For stock you don't need a bigger one.
The one supplied with the speedo is ok.

When you don't run one, the speedo gets hotter.
What els can happen I don't now for sure but use one is always better than non.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:50 PM   #6814
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was just gona try a bigger one. what in theory should it do?

also what would the effect be to not running one then running one?

cheers
ricky
Its not the size of the cap that we are worried about (i run a larger cap than what comes with the RS too), its the voltage. Too much voltage and you can cause dmg, I would imagine. A larger CAPACITY cap, wouldn't matter.

I am semi/kinda/mostly sure you need to solder on a 16v cap.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:53 PM   #6815
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A larger capacity cap would assist in bringing down the operating temperature of the ESC slightly if you're experiencing overheating issues, when I ran my RS Pro in mod(4.5/LiPo) I also went to a single 4700 16v cap instead of doubling up on the standard cap.

Under no circumstances should you try to run the RS without a capacitor.
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Old 09-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #6816
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Run the cap we spec with the speedo.

If you do want to run something with more capacity you can try it. 16v is the spec for voltage.

It's not just the caps volume but also the ability to discharge and recharge that make it good. The cap we spec has excellent qualities, which is why it's in the box!

The other caps I like to run our the 16v 1000uf caps from the G11, also an excellent cap!
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:16 PM   #6817
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A 35V capacitor won't DISCHARGE 35V all the time. That's just the maximum working voltage that the cap can handle. It will only charge/discharge the amount of voltage supplied by the battery. As long as the working voltage is well above the maximum possible voltage of the battery, it will be OK (as in, it won't swell or blow up). The capacity and Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) are the values that matter when choosing a cap for good charge/discharge characteristics. If you don't know how to look up the ESR of a cap, then perhaps you shouldn't be using caps other than OEM Tekin ones.
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:07 AM   #6818
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Any of you KO Helio's user's care to share your radio set up? I'm just curious to see what other's have gotten to work for them. I mainly want to know what you have set your throtle end points at for speedo calibration. I have a regionals to win in a few weeks and would love to do it with my KO rather than a different brand
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:38 AM   #6819
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he may of read the manual, dnt expect customer to have the time to read 100's pages on which most of wont contain there answer there looking for. if that was the condition of user support i wouldn't buy the product. what whould be great. is there a simple faq maybe there would be less repeated questions. that being said. is it that hard to retype a answer.
Only by reading you can unlock the potential of a product. It isn't unheard of to read to get information? and that also means going through forums reading up on knowledge and experiences from other people what works and doesn't work. That is the beauty of the internet. Sharing experiences so you don't have to invent the wheel again, getting to know what works and doesn't work. That goes not only for this product but goes with all products these days. The only thing you have to do is read.

But anyway.... it was an advice from a consumer to a consumer. If you won't buy a product because of that then you will miss a great product.
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:57 AM   #6820
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Any of you KO Helio's user's care to share your radio set up? I'm just curious to see what other's have gotten to work for them. I mainly want to know what you have set your throtle end points at for speedo calibration. I have a regionals to win in a few weeks and would love to do it with my KO rather than a different brand
I calibrated 3 RS Pro's with the Helios at max epa (150) on both sides of the trigger without issues. I will have to check one of them to see if throttle is set at 100. They all seem to act correctly. If there is some other tricks, I'm listening.

I was kind of curious if I could take throttle high point down about 120, calibrate the esc and then return the radio to 150. The goal would be keep the throttle at full and keep the turbo boost from resetting when you instinctually lift for a millisecond in a tight sweep when you didn't mean too. I would think it might make the top of the trigger a bit dead, but the way the boost keeps going, it maybe just something to get used to.

In put?

Brian
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:44 AM   #6821
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Originally Posted by prodriver View Post
was just gona try a bigger one. what in theory should it do?

also what would the effect be to not running one then running one?

cheers
ricky
"Prodriver" and others.

In reading this thread lately there seems to be way to much emphasis and effort placed on switching this and adjusting that and on and on and on...by now the ideal speedo/radio settup has pretty much been determined for both touring car and 1/12 scale. You may have to make a few small adjustments to suit your needs and you should be done. Switching caps and tweaking this and that is not really going to make you faster until you can drive the entire race fast and clean without making mistakes or worse yet slaming boards. After all and correct me if I am wrong but there isn't a driver out there who can pass anyone from a board...

My advise to you is for you to set the darn speed control and put you car down on the track, practice driving and work on your settups. That is how you are going to make up time. Oh yea, the older versions like 189,194, and 198 are every bit as fast as the new. Trust me.


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Old 09-05-2009, 08:56 AM   #6822
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Hello, can anyone tell me how much is the peak current for Tekin RS Pro?

ex: -ORCA VRITRA generate 360A,
-LRP Tc Sphere generate 400A,
-Tekin RS Pro ??

(correct me if I'm wrong)
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:26 AM   #6823
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Any of you KO Helio's user's care to share your radio set up? I'm just curious to see what other's have gotten to work for them. I mainly want to know what you have set your throtle end points at for speedo calibration. I have a regionals to win in a few weeks and would love to do it with my KO rather than a different brand
You are going to have to get pass me first my friend. And trust me that is not going to be easy.
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:51 AM   #6824
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Prodriver is an ex UK NAtional Champ
I was thinking to solder my speedpassion esc supercap, is that performe better than the one comes with RS Pro?


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"Prodriver" and others.

In reading this thread lately there seems to be way to much emphasis and effort placed on switching this and adjusting that and on and on and on...by now the ideal speedo/radio settup has pretty much been determined for both touring car and 1/12 scale. You may have to make a few small adjustments to suit your needs and you should be done. Switching caps and tweaking this and that is not really going to make you faster until you can drive the entire race fast and clean without making mistakes or worse yet slaming boards. After all and correct me if I am wrong but there isn't a driver out there who can pass anyone from a board...

My advise to you is for you to set the darn speed control and put you car down on the track, practice driving and work on your settups. That is how you are going to make up time. Oh yea, the older versions like 189,194, and 198 are every bit as fast as the new. Trust me.


Travis A.
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Old 09-05-2009, 11:17 AM   #6825
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I was kind of curious if I could take throttle high point down about 120, calibrate the esc and then return the radio to 150. The goal would be keep the throttle at full and keep the turbo boost from resetting when you instinctually lift for a millisecond in a tight sweep when you didn't mean too. I would think it might make the top of the trigger a bit dead, but the way the boost keeps going, it maybe just something to get used to.

In put?

Brian
Brian,

I do something very much like that with my 3PKs.. I calibrate at 90 and reset to 100, but for a different reason. For some reason, some of us have an issue where the turbo feature literally dissapears after 4 or 5 laps, every time we run. I can only speculate a floating end point. Overshooting the calibrated spot by 10 gives turbo the entire race. I think this would be a good idea (like you are suggesting) even if you DON'T have this issue, just in case you just BARELY wiggle your finger or something, making you lose turbo when you didnt want to. Maybe 120-150 is a little extreme... but I think its a good idea.

The Capt
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