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Old 09-03-2009, 10:28 AM   #6781
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oh by the way. During saterday's club meeting the black wire broke from the esc plug that goes in the receiver . Are there any plugs that have a broader end so i don't have to yank the wires constantly? just curious


I am not sure but would it work if i would solder a second plug onto the esc wire and use that one to plug into the hotwire while leaving the standard esc plug alone? ( when unplugged from the batteries and everything is turned off) Or would there be a short circuit or something else? That way the plug can stay in the receiver and i can use the other one to put in the hotwire to setup the speedo.

edit:
Mikky i don't think i can fit a motor cooler like that in my pod. the axle is near the motor but i would have to see it to be sure. Will look into that.
Forgotten that you have a pan car.

Mine doesn't become to hot any more now I gear it lighter.
The motor has so much rpm that you can gear it very light.

I used a small piece of tape no make a kind of pulling help on it.
Now I pull on the tape and the tape is on the black plastic part of the wire.
This works great.

You can try a Y wire. Don't now if it works but you can try.
I was thinking of the same.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:18 PM   #6782
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Hi all.

I run a Photon on rubber indoors on a small high grip carpet track.
This is a small school hall - maybe only 15x10 metres.


I have just purchased a RS Pro (and Hotwire) to replace my Speed Passion LPF2.0 and would like some advice on setup please.

I use a SP13.5 motor (no timing adjustment on the motor), with an FDR of around 5.5. Lap times are around 7.5 seconds for the 13.5 guys - those people running 10.5 motors are approx 0.5s faster.

Should I run a higher FDR with the RS Pro, or start off with the same FDR and see how I go ?
(SP suggests ratios between 4.8 and 6 for this motor)


Assuming I have v200, what would you aim for as a base setp, to tweak from ?

Cheers,
Daniel.
Wow thats a very tight track!!... I'd start with 6.5/20tb/max turbo and work up from there.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:20 PM   #6783
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Forgotten that you have a pan car.

Mine doesn't become to hot any more now I gear it lighter.
The motor has so much rpm that you can gear it very light.

I used a small piece of tape no make a kind of pulling help on it.
Now I pull on the tape and the tape is on the black plastic part of the wire.
This works great.

You can try a Y wire. Don't now if it works but you can try.
I was thinking of the same.
A Y harnes can be risky as you'll be sending power to the receiver and communications thats unfamiliar to the receiver. This could short it along with the hotwire. I wouldn't try until randy says its ok.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:36 PM   #6784
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Wow thats a very tight track!!... I'd start with 6.5/20tb/max turbo and work up from there.
Cheers...

By working up, I presume you mean lower the FDR (keeping an eye on temps) until I hit optimum lap times ?
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:36 PM   #6785
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uhmmm. lets see, the wires are going from the esc to the receiver. red and black are used to power the receiver. the other one is for the communication i gues. When i would use the hotwire the receiver would indeed get voltage and a signal as well i presume as it is still connected to the esc..... not sure if that would be harmfull to the receiver but indeed it could be. Indeed, randy can you shine youre light on this subject?
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:20 PM   #6786
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Randy,

What can we do for strain relief on the ESC wires? It would be nice to have a small piece of 3 lead cable with the standard end that goes to the esc and a female end with some sort of eject lever on it kind of like internal PC cables.
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:27 PM   #6787
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yeah that would be a very good idea indeed!!!

After some snooping around, from Futaba there is a "servo extention wire" which has a female plug on one side and a normal plug on the other. Don't know if it is something with a eject system though.....number BC0024... but it is a start. should be easier to get the plug in and out i think.

edit:
Ko Propo and some other brands also have a extention wire with male and femal ends. Great stuff ....it will get a lot easier with those extention wires to get the plug in and out without pulling the wires. Probably very similar to the hotwire female plug.

Last edited by 2wdrive; 09-03-2009 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 09-03-2009, 03:36 PM   #6788
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OK, that setup might be too much timing. I would like to see you try dual mode with 90 on the timing advance and see if you like that.

Dual mode uses the sensors only for rotor position, not for timing calculations.
Thanks randy ill give it another go, although i have tried dual mode already i did not run 90 on the timing.


Is it ok to do the Y lead thing?
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:02 PM   #6789
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Here's Clints setup, don't tell him! LOL
I was hoping for something faster



BOR:spx is fine just trying all the stuff I have, I did see clint in my rear view but the car didn't look that fast
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:48 PM   #6790
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Randy,

What can we do for strain relief on the ESC wires? It would be nice to have a small piece of 3 lead cable with the standard end that goes to the esc and a female end with some sort of eject lever on it kind of like internal PC cables.
John,

Try this: http://www.rcslot.com/pc-radio-contr...enions%2Bwires
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:49 PM   #6791
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Randy.....U Got PM
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:48 PM   #6792
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Cheers...

By working up, I presume you mean lower the FDR (keeping an eye on temps) until I hit optimum lap times ?
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:37 PM   #6793
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I wonder if a piece of narrowed fillament tape looped around the face of the plug with the plug pointing down would work and not be too thick...
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:47 PM   #6794
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I was hoping for something faster



BOR:spx is fine just trying all the stuff I have, I did see clint in my rear view but the car didn't look that fast
Didn't I out qualify you last week???? I have an idea as to what the problem is and will address it before the regionals.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:02 PM   #6795
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I wonder if a piece of narrowed fillament tape looped around the face of the plug with the plug pointing down would work and not be too thick...
I've tried this before and have to say that it does help take the stress off of the plug and wires.
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