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Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored

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Old 09-02-2009, 10:08 PM
  #6766  
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Speaking of rotors. I tested a 14mm in my SP 11.5 the other day and ended up with 4.5fdr/20boost/max turbo and boy oh boy was I flying!!.. So much infield punch and crazy ass top speed on a 100' straight... If only they're legal
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
I done it before i read this, is it critical to do the reset, as i missed that part.



Also I changed Speedies and now my ballistic 5.5T hesitates and makes a hum noise when you go to take off, its noticable in your hand a fair bit, and only a bit noticable on track, once i add more throtle it getts started.

Same everything but differant brand esc and it doesnt do it, any settings it could be?

Im running it in sensored mode, when its turned on and i turn the wheels by hand i see the last couple of lights (oposite end to drag brake) on the esc go on and off very faintly, does that meen the sensor is working or not?
I told ya to buy the LRP bro
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:47 PM
  #6768  
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Originally Posted by cyanyde View Post
Yes. Try 4.0 and move up/down from there. If you keep temping at 80c you'll lose torque also..

Thank you. It did feel like it was loosing a bit of acceleration over the few laps I put down. I will try your suggestion.

What would be a good temperature to aim at?

My measurements are not very accurate I would think. My guess is that I may underestimate a bit as well as I can't measure the temperature down the middle of the motor. At the moment I measure at the endbell which is somewhat cooler by touch.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cyanyde View Post
Damage will be either one or a combination of:

rotor losing magnet strength
shorted coils
bearing seizure
melted sensors

So to answer your question... yes and no. Depending on what gets damaged...
Well the only thing i am worried about is magnet strength. Being that my motor got 199+ degrees fahrenheit a few times. I did feel a los of speed during the run. It seems that in the beginning of the race it feels ok.
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:15 AM
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hey guys just wondering if anyone can give me a good setup for the v200
iam running 17.5 redline in a xray t2009 1.9 internal ratio 70 spur and 33 pinion.

I race at windsor NSW Australia
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by SAVAGE OCM View Post
hey guys just wondering if anyone can give me a good setup for the v200
iam running 17.5 redline in a xray t2009 1.9 internal ratio 70 spur and 33 pinion.

I race at windsor NSW Australia
run about a 38mm roll out
turbo max
timing on esc 20
endbell timing 0
should get you going thats what a mate ran there last week
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Old 09-03-2009, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
Well the only thing i am worried about is magnet strength. Being that my motor got 199+ degrees fahrenheit a few times. I did feel a los of speed during the run. It seems that in the beginning of the race it feels ok.
It will have lost a bit of power but not so much.
Gear it lighter, you will keep your motor temps lower.
The Tekin motor is from high quality and you won't burn it as fast as the Speedpassion.
The loss of power is because of the head. This you will only have when the motor becomes to hot.
Set your motor timing on 10
Boost on 15 to 20
Turbo on max and gear light.
Gear from there heavier and heavier till you find a good speed and your motor temp stays below the 180F.
On Mach you will fly!!

Some drivers let it run above the 180F because they think that they have more power than.
I run it below the 180 and I have the same speed. And I have more power ad the end of the race.
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:41 AM
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When running in dual mode, on take off, does it use esc timing & motor timing. Or just Motor timing only.


Also is it ok to run a servo Y Lead and just plug in the hot wire that way without having to unplug the esc from the reciever all the time (with the main batterie not connected of course)


Randy: I have the 5.5T Ballistic at the original setting ( 'N' on the sticker of motor), i also has 5 timing boast with 0 turbo.

and yes all three led's are going on and off as i rotate the motor.

Last edited by LOSI123; 09-03-2009 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by madmiki View Post
run about a 38mm roll out
turbo max
timing on esc 20
endbell timing 0
should get you going thats what a mate ran there last week


Thanks mate will try it 2morow.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:03 AM
  #6775  
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Hi all.

I run a Photon on rubber indoors on a small high grip carpet track.
This is a small school hall - maybe only 15x10 metres.


I have just purchased a RS Pro (and Hotwire) to replace my Speed Passion LPF2.0 and would like some advice on setup please.

I use a SP13.5 motor (no timing adjustment on the motor), with an FDR of around 5.5. Lap times are around 7.5 seconds for the 13.5 guys - those people running 10.5 motors are approx 0.5s faster.

Should I run a higher FDR with the RS Pro, or start off with the same FDR and see how I go ?
(SP suggests ratios between 4.8 and 6 for this motor)


Assuming I have v200, what would you aim for as a base setp, to tweak from ?

Cheers,
Daniel.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:16 AM
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Over the last few days I've been driving a Tekin RS for the first time, after playing around with settings and gearing on the v200 my car has been screaming along now. Very nice speedy I'm liking it quite alot, compared to my TC Spec I'm now going faster, quicker, and cooler geared at 4.2 with the hottest motor temp being 52c with the LRP x11 17.5.
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Old 09-03-2009, 07:29 AM
  #6777  
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
It will have lost a bit of power but not so much.
Gear it lighter, you will keep your motor temps lower.
The Tekin motor is from high quality and you won't burn it as fast as the Speedpassion.
The loss of power is because of the head. This you will only have when the motor becomes to hot.
Set your motor timing on 10
Boost on 15 to 20
Turbo on max and gear light.
Gear from there heavier and heavier till you find a good speed and your motor temp stays below the 180F.
On Mach you will fly!!

Some drivers let it run above the 180F because they think that they have more power than.
I run it below the 180 and I have the same speed. And I have more power ad the end of the race.
I think so too, the redline loses a lot of power when reaching 199 like mine did. The difference was huge!

Yeah, the motor has to stay below 180F-176F to keep the speed. Besides lowering my rollout I am brainstorming to make some construction for a 40mm fan on my rear pod. That should take care of the heat i think
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
When running in dual mode, on take off, does it use esc timing & motor timing. Or just Motor timing only.


Also is it ok to run a servo Y Lead and just plug in the hot wire that way without having to unplug the esc from the reciever all the time (with the main batterie not connected of course)


Randy: I have the 5.5T Ballistic at the original setting ( 'N' on the sticker of motor), i also has 5 timing boast with 0 turbo.

and yes all three led's are going on and off as i rotate the motor.
OK, that setup might be too much timing. I would like to see you try dual mode with 90 on the timing advance and see if you like that.

Dual mode uses the sensors only for rotor position, not for timing calculations.
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
I think so too, the redline loses a lot of power when reaching 199 like mine did. The difference was huge!

Yeah, the motor has to stay below 180F-176F to keep the speed. Besides lowering my rollout I am brainstorming to make some construction for a 40mm fan on my rear pod. That should take care of the heat i think
Best motor cooler there is, is the LRP motor cooler.
Works great for me.
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:19 AM
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oh by the way. During saterday's club meeting the black wire broke from the esc plug that goes in the receiver . Are there any plugs that have a broader end so i don't have to yank the wires constantly? just curious


I am not sure but would it work if i would solder a second plug onto the esc wire and use that one to plug into the hotwire while leaving the standard esc plug alone? ( when unplugged from the batteries and everything is turned off) Or would there be a short circuit or something else? That way the plug can stay in the receiver and i can use the other one to put in the hotwire to setup the speedo.

edit:
Mikky i don't think i can fit a motor cooler like that in my pod. the axle is near the motor but i would have to see it to be sure. Will look into that.
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