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Old 09-02-2009, 02:01 AM   #6751
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
First update the speedo
Than reset the speedo
Calibrate the speedo with your radio
and than you can change the settings on your speedo.
I done it before i read this, is it critical to do the reset, as i missed that part.



Also I changed Speedies and now my ballistic 5.5T hesitates and makes a hum noise when you go to take off, its noticable in your hand a fair bit, and only a bit noticable on track, once i add more throtle it getts started.

Same everything but differant brand esc and it doesnt do it, any settings it could be?

Im running it in sensored mode, when its turned on and i turn the wheels by hand i see the last couple of lights (oposite end to drag brake) on the esc go on and off very faintly, does that meen the sensor is working or not?

Last edited by LOSI123; 09-02-2009 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 09-02-2009, 02:05 AM   #6752
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LOL almost the same questions being asked over every page!..
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:15 AM   #6753
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The motor cogs when you have the system turned off? Are you referring to how the motor spins? The sensored motor is a "slotted" design and does have "segments" that should have a "bump" feel to them. What are you comparing this to? A sensorless system perhaps?

If you're not sure if it's the car or the motor, take the pinion off and spin the drivetrain...
Exactly what I mean. Sounds like that part of it is normal.

I will look into the "slipping" tonight.
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:55 AM   #6754
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Yeah most 1/10 sensored motors all have that segmented feel to them. That is normal.

On your 5.5 sensored setup how much timing are you running. Yes the last 3 led's cycling on and off are the sensors checking in. If you run too much timing on your 5.5 it will cause mis commutations and cogging.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:06 AM   #6755
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Theoraticly when my motor got too hot and i get a loss in performance due to overheating can i then just buy a new rotor and would the motor be fine afterwards? Or would something else be damged as well when overheated?

Also, when is the 12,3mm rotor comming out?
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Old 09-02-2009, 02:42 PM   #6756
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Theoraticly when my motor got too hot and i get a loss in performance due to overheating can i then just buy a new rotor and would the motor be fine afterwards? Or would something else be damged as well when overheated?

Also, when is the 12,3mm rotor comming out?
Damage will be either one or a combination of:

rotor losing magnet strength
shorted coils
bearing seizure
melted sensors

So to answer your question... yes and no. Depending on what gets damaged...
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:53 PM   #6757
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Yeah most 1/10 sensored motors all have that segmented feel to them. That is normal.

On your 5.5 sensored setup how much timing are you running. Yes the last 3 led's cycling on and off are the sensors checking in. If you run too much timing on your 5.5 it will cause mis commutations and cogging.
Looks like my issue is fixed.

I don't think I did much. I just took the front of the motor apart, realized that the rotor is hard to get out, and put it back together and re-mounted the motor.
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:22 PM   #6758
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Randy: Do you have a good setup for Speedworld using v200?

13.5 Duo w/ RS Pro


I have been running an spx profile 8 middle hole duo timing 6.0 fdr, motor comes off 155-160 every time after 6min
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:26 PM   #6759
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Randy: Do you have a good setup for Speedworld using v200?

13.5 Duo w/ RS Pro


I have been running an spx profile 8 middle hole duo timing 6.0 fdr, motor comes off 155-160 every time after 6min
going Tekin now? Clints car was hualin at SWR!

What happened to the SPX?
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:09 PM   #6760
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Here's Clints setup, don't tell him! LOL
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Tekin RS ESC sensored-clintrileys13.5rrocsetup.jpg  
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:23 PM   #6761
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i see he was using a cheater rotor
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:10 PM   #6762
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OK.

Some feedback with the latest gearing/setup.
3.5 FDR
(Full brakes, no drag brakes, 10 timing boost, no turbo, 12 timing on motor, profile 3, 21.5 redline, RSpro, v200)

I ahve experienced bad brake fade after a few laps, motor was above 80degC. I know brakes won't be as powerful to begin with, but here I am comparing the brake after a few laps with the brakes before any lap at the same (3.5) FDR.

I understand the motor is overheating and that is the reason for losing the brakes. I also understand that going higher in FDR (I tested in the past around 6 FDR) will overheat the motor as well. Speed wasn't that much different between the two FDRs tested.

It looks like I have to go to a slightly higher FDR number?
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:16 PM   #6763
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
OK.

Some feedback with the latest gearing/setup.
3.5 FDR
(Full brakes, no drag brakes, 10 timing boost, no turbo, 12 timing on motor, profile 3, 21.5 redline, RSpro, v200)

I ahve experienced bad brake fade after a few laps, motor was above 80degC. I know brakes won't be as powerful to begin with, but here I am comparing the brake after a few laps with the brakes before any lap at the same (3.5) FDR.

I understand the motor is overheating and that is the reason for losing the brakes. I also understand that going higher in FDR (I tested in the past around 6 FDR) will overheat the motor as well. Speed wasn't that much different between the two FDRs tested.

It looks like I have to go to a slightly higher FDR number?
Yes. Try 4.0 and move up/down from there. If you keep temping at 80c you'll lose torque also..
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:43 PM   #6764
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i see he was using a cheater rotor
I was testing
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:44 PM   #6765
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lol, just messing
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