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Old 08-19-2009, 06:11 AM   #6301
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Originally Posted by razzor View Post
The SP comes std with a 12.3mm rotor.
Same for the 13.5 but not sure on the 17.5.
shoot, i am so tekin minded i asumed he was using a tekin motor lol i didn't see that he was using a speedpassion
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:33 AM   #6302
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Hello,

I have a Tekin RS with the following settings...

FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5

Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F

The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.

The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.

I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:57 AM   #6303
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Originally Posted by StewartFan20 View Post
Hello,

I have a Tekin RS with the following settings...

FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5

Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F

The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.

The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.

I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?

Thanks in advance.
Is that a 13.5? If so, try dropping a couple of teeth like you stated. Also, throttle profile 2 is less aggressive on the bottom end by design. Try 3, which is linear, and maybe 4, which is more aggressive at the bottom end.
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:22 AM   #6304
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
Is that a 13.5? If so, try dropping a couple of teeth like you stated. Also, throttle profile 2 is less aggressive on the bottom end by design. Try 3, which is linear, and maybe 4, which is more aggressive at the bottom end.


It is a 17.5.

I've tried the other throttle profiles and didn't really notice much more punch. They did have a different feel, but not necessarily more punch. That's kind of why I was thinking I needed to drop some teeth on the pinion.

Maybe I need to drop a tooth or two and change the throttle profile to 4 or 5.

Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:41 AM   #6305
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I raced my Redline 17.5 last night for the first time. I went from 4.4 to 4.0 FDR and endbell timing from 10* to 0* and it didn't change in performance all that much. I had a tick less top end at 4.4/10* than 4.0/0*, but lap times weren't much different. I did change the boost from 20 to max and the motor down to 0* to keep the max timing value at 30 just to see what the motor would do. It felt pretty good. Temps were around 160. With the track I was on, I could have probably gone to 3.8 FDR safely. On the other hand, maybe I should go back to 4.4... I might just to see how it tests out. I need a lot more testing and practice, but this is fun. I finished fifth in the C main. Considering the talent pool this track draws, it wasn't so bad. I did manage to keep marshalling to a minimum.
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Last edited by liljohn1064; 08-19-2009 at 08:22 AM. Reason: I guess they combined us for the mains....
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:04 AM   #6306
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Capt. : That's all I can ask for! Thanks. Please do let me know. If we have a calibration issue with a certain radio we need to track it down and correct it.

So far we've had only a few random configurations that have shown issues. Nomadios with an older receiver, a Ko on crystals(people still use these, LOL),etc.
another data point for you on another futaba fasst radio:

I run a 3pm with fasst; I have it in HRS mode as well. I had the same problem (losing turbo after 4-6 laps here at speedworld in 1/10 touring car). Another racer advised me to re-do the calibration with EPA at 100%, then after calibration to change the throttle EPAs to 110%. He also suggested that I increase the turbo delay to 0.7 or 0.8. I never had any turbo problems after that, it worked great the rest of the race day. I'm not certain which change fixed it (or if both were necessary) but I'm going to try and cut the turbo delay back down, because I assume the EPA deal fixed it.

The RS does seem awful sensitive to the throttle endpoints. After calibrating (and before changing the EPA), pretty much any visible movement at all of the throttle trigger results in the RS dropping out of full throttle. I'm not exaggerating much when I say that a piece of dust behind the trigger might prevent full throttle (as indicated by the flashing LEDs on the RS). Maybe you guys could detect the maximum / minimum throws of the throttle trigger during calibration (as you already do); but then use a value around 93-94% of the measured min/max as the "full throttle" point. It feels like you must use 99.5% now.

I've never seen any other ESC have these kinds of problem, so logic suggest you guys are just cutting it a little too close....
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:12 AM   #6307
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Originally Posted by StewartFan20 View Post
It is a 17.5.

I've tried the other throttle profiles and didn't really notice much more punch. They did have a different feel, but not necessarily more punch. That's kind of why I was thinking I needed to drop some teeth on the pinion.

Maybe I need to drop a tooth or two and change the throttle profile to 4 or 5.

Thanks.
I don't think throttle profile will change anything. If I'm not mistaken, TP adjustability is meant for light or heavy trigger fingers.

Seems to me that you are not using the available torque of the 17.5. I would try gearing heavier and watch the temps. 4.0-5.0 maybe?...

On a track like that, you'll hardly see the turbo coming into play. Any timing changes should be on the Timing Boost.
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:14 AM   #6308
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Originally Posted by StewartFan20 View Post
It is a 17.5.

I've tried the other throttle profiles and didn't really notice much more punch. They did have a different feel, but not necessarily more punch. That's kind of why I was thinking I needed to drop some teeth on the pinion.

Maybe I need to drop a tooth or two and change the throttle profile to 4 or 5.

Thanks.
I believe you would obtain better results by lowering the boost and increasing turbo. Lower timing produces more punch and then you can increase turbo and still maintain the same timing at the end of the straight. Drop boost to 10 and put turbo at 20 and give it a go.
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:44 AM   #6309
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I believe you would obtain better results by lowering the boost and increasing turbo. Lower timing produces more punch and then you can increase turbo and still maintain the same timing at the end of the straight. Drop boost to 10 and put turbo at 20 and give it a go.


I'll give it a try.

I haven't tried it yet because I wasn't sure the turbo would kick in soon enough giving the size of our track.

Thanks
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:47 AM   #6310
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Originally Posted by slashdriver View Post

The RS does seem awful sensitive to the throttle endpoints. After calibrating (and before changing the EPA), pretty much any visible movement at all of the throttle trigger results in the RS dropping out of full throttle. I'm not exaggerating much when I say that a piece of dust behind the trigger might prevent full throttle (as indicated by the flashing LEDs on the RS). Maybe you guys could detect the maximum / minimum throws of the throttle trigger during calibration (as you already do); but then use a value around 93-94% of the measured min/max as the "full throttle" point. It feels like you must use 99.5% now.

I've never seen any other ESC have these kinds of problem, so logic suggest you guys are just cutting it a little too close....
Wouldn't this be an issue with having your deadband too low? I have a dx3r and ran it with teh deadband at 56 (default) and at 9 and the window definitely gets smaller. Just a thought maybe turn up your deadband a bit and it wouldn't be such an issue.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:07 AM   #6311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StewartFan20 View Post
Hello,

I have a Tekin RS with the following settings...

FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5

Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F<---This is the indicator!

The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.

The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.

I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?

Thanks in advance.
Your not geared right. I'd actually gear this up with the current setup. The 17.5 class MUST be geared right for speed. Your temps are cool to cold to be honest. If you're missing acceleration you need to get your gearing right.

On this short of a track you should be running around 25-30 total timing between the motor and timing boost. IF you're DUO is on the lowest setting that should be 0 not 10 so make sure.

I'd reccomend the middle hole(10) and your exsisting RS setup. For now leave the gearing but make the motor adjustment. Run the car and see where you're at. If you're still pulling off that cool gear it up.

If your NW is narrow this should affect the nuetral sensitivity, not WOT.

Setting your epa's 10 over or 5 over calibration is something that was done back in the days of non digital radio since you didn't want to run the risk of bumping a trim pot,etc.

As always guys, you talk and we listen. We are dedicated to being the best.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:12 AM   #6312
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Randy,

Is 4.0 FDR and lower too low for the 17.5 Redline? The motor was temping at 160 at a 4.2. The building temp was near 90 to start with.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:35 AM   #6313
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Randy,

Is 4.0 FDR and lower too low for the 17.5 Redline? The motor was temping at 160 at a 4.2. The building temp was near 90 to start with.
I find the redlines liked to be geared shorter then most others. When I was running my redline, I was geared around 4.7 on a large track. My duo likes to be closer to 4.0.

If you are running 4.2, coming off at 160 degrees... as long as the felt fast with a balance of infield punch and straight away speed, then you are geared properly.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:06 AM   #6314
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I find the redlines liked to be geared shorter then most others. When I was running my redline, I was geared around 4.7 on a large track. My duo likes to be closer to 4.0.

If you are running 4.2, coming off at 160 degrees... as long as the felt fast with a balance of infield punch and straight away speed, then you are geared properly.
Then I'll work on my driving. I'll probably stil take it back to 4.4 just to see if there is an increase in punch without affect lap times.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:43 AM   #6315
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so... what radio brand(s) and transmission method(crystal/2.4) is recommended?
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