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Old 08-16-2009, 10:18 PM   #6151
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Just a guess, but maybe your packs are going flat? My turbo seemed to pull strong all day long. When I pull off the track, with 17.5, I have approximately 7.8v left. I did notice the turbo was weaker when I practiced for extended periods of time.
--pakk
I was running a brand new IP 5000mah 40c. My infield speeds seem to be near identical at the start of the race, as the end. Still plenty fast. But all signs of the turbo, gone.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:22 PM   #6152
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Cpt i ran mine in my offroad last night and saw the same thing. after say 4 min the turbo goes away.
When I had my radio throttle EPA at 100% I had the same problem and sometimes the turbo would not come in at all. But the problem went away when I set the EPA at 120%. Try it.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:28 PM   #6153
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When I had my radio throttle EPA at 100% I had the same problem and sometimes the turbo would not come in at all. But the problem went away when I set the EPA at 120%. Try it.
One of the first things i did.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:31 PM   #6154
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To those who are experiencing turbo going missing after a few laps, check your esc temp. Does it happen when it reaches 3 leds? Mine does.

However, Randy have insisted that the esc temp does not affect turbo. He suggested recalibrating the esc with 95% epa on throttle forward, and then setting back to 100% afterwards. I haven't tried it yet but hopefully it works. It is so annoying being fast only for a couple of minutes!
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:38 PM   #6155
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To those who are experiencing turbo going missing after a few laps, check your esc temp. Does it happen when it reaches 3 leds? Mine does.

However, Randy have insisted that the esc temp does not affect turbo. He suggested recalibrating the esc with 95% epa on throttle forward, and then setting back to 100% afterwards. I haven't tried it yet but hopefully it works. It is so annoying being fast only for a couple of minutes!
My esc doesn't even get warm, so I don't even look at the LEDs. I thought calibrating at 95, then resetting to 100+ was a bug with 199 fixed with 200? I am willing to try anything.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:42 PM   #6156
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Nope, that is not it, as I realise that letting off full throttle kills the turbo. One of the first things I did after I got to experience the turbo (first practice laps of the day), was widen my line on the straight so I could take the back corner at full throttle, so the turbo would last all the way to the end hairpin. after 4 or 5 laps... turbo is gone. What timing boost did you use? I ran 10degrees on the can (middle hole), and tried 10 on the esc, as well as 20 on the esc. 4.3 is certainly geared higher than I was.

No matter what I did.... turbo would only last for between 4 and 6 laps. I was actually a bit dissapointed. Certainly something else is wrong?
This is what my esc was set at:
Brake: 100
NW: 15
Motor: BL-FW
Throttle: prof 3
V.Cutoff: 2
Push: off
Timing Boost: 20
Turbo: Max
0 deg. on the can

Very strange. I'm assuming you had 0 drag brake. Try reloading the 200 software, couldn't hurt. I'll find you next time I'm up there.--Albert
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:43 PM   #6157
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I was running a brand new IP 5000mah 40c. My infield speeds seem to be near identical at the start of the race, as the end. Still plenty fast. But all signs of the turbo, gone.
If you don't mind, next time you go out, check your end voltage. Not only to see if it is affecting your turbo, but I wanna know how your batteries compare if you don't mind. I run 3 different SMC's 28c 5000, 28c 6000, and 40c 5000. And for the record, my 28c 5000 seems faster. I think it is because it is 30g lighter.

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Old 08-16-2009, 10:46 PM   #6158
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JimmyMac: Have you tried different motors? I'm on Speedpassion and could burst the belts with the brakes I have on V200.

And guys, I believe that Tekin designed the Turbo function to compensate for the speed loss on the straights if we were to tweak the esc only for infield performance. Put this in your head and you'll find it much easier to get max performance out of the RS.
I understand about different motors and brakes. Duo's have stronger braking power than Novaks. But some people at the track only like to run Novaks, and some people have to run nothing but Novaks because it's a class rule. Like Tamiya TCS GT2 class. Got a friend going to the TCS nationals and the only motor allowed for GT2 is the Novak 17.5.

As for Turbo, I'd still like to have the option for Zero Delay.

Had another friend the other day loose his turbo too after a couple laps during a qualifier. I think we got him situated once we retuned his radio to the esc with 110% epa, then jacked them back up to 120% epa on throttle and brake afterwards. But earlier, he was told he didn't have to do this with his Futaba radio.

Oh, and please don't think I'm putting down the Tekin. I'm not, I'm just expressing some of the concerns and problems we are facing here locally so that Tekin can make a better product.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:52 PM   #6159
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I actually recalibrated my futaba at 100% then bumped it up to 120%. Maybe the extra 5 to 10% makes a difference??
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:08 PM   #6160
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I actually recalibrated my futaba at 100% then bumped it up to 120%. Maybe the extra 5 to 10% makes a difference??
That should make a difference.
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:20 PM   #6161
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I ran 13.5 and 17.5 12th 1 cell today with 200 and although I am not certain (since I was really focusing on the racing and not as much on "did the turbo kick in?") I think I was experiencing the same as Cpt. On the bench it works perfect ramping up as expected, but after a short time it feels like it goes soft or goes away. I now it wasn't esc temps (c'mon, 1 cell 17.5 12th indoors on carpet with motor temps at 130*?) and I calibrated my esc several times during the day to make sure I had everything right. Calibrated at 100% and then turned the throttle Hi Point up to 140. I geared down two teeth from where I thought I should be thinking maybe the motor was having to pull too hard, but ti got slower. I went back up 3 teeth and I was back to the speeds I was expecting with a better turbo feel, but something still felt different after a few minutes. I suppose we just need to work a little more on using the parameters correctly. After today I think I really agree with Randy's suggestion to get the car/gearing working well with the turbo turned off, and then add turbo to taste.

Here's what a fast guy at my track was running today in 13.5 12th 1 cell on a 60x110' ozite track.

V200
Reverse-off
brake strength-95
Drag brake- 5
LV Cut-off-OFF
Profile-4
BL-FW
Timing- 10
Turbo- 12
Push-off
Delay- .5
Sensored
1 cell lipo box unchecked
42.5 mm tires
74/40


@those reaching top speeds within .5 secs-
If your reaching max RPM within a half second after pulling full throttle, you probably need to gear up? I was always under the impression that you should gear your car to peg the tach at the end of the longest straight. Is that still pretty sound advice?
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:22 PM   #6162
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So myself and a couple others at my track were all testing and running 200 today, and there seems to be a common problem, at least with the guys I was discussing it with, and that is the turbo going away mid race.

When I first got the car onto the track to practice first thing in the morning, i was shocked at how much faster it was. about 50 feet down the straight, the car seemed to get a second gear and was blisteringly fast for a 17.5 But... after 5 or 6 laps, the turbo seems to turn off or just go away. My track has a HUGE straight.... the back and side straights together total up to something like 180 feet.... after those 5 or 6 laps, my car is exactly as fast at the front of the straight, as it is at the back of the straight.

I tried gearing it down 4 teath, up 4 teeth... 30 degrees of total timing, 10 degrees of total timing... didn't make any difference in the turbo going away. When the car comes off the track, and you hold it in your hands and give it full throttle, the turbo looks like it is still working, but it doesn't ramp up speed when the car is on the ground like it does up in the air.

Settings:

Duo 17.5
6min temps ~130 -~140
tried gearing between 4.3 and 4.8 (im normally geared around 4.0-4.3 i think)

At least two other racers experience the same thing, and I also experience the exact same thing in my 13.5 1s WGT car as well.

Any hints? tips?
hey brandon
Make sure your senorless wire isn't broken connection...mine did last weekend...
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:26 PM   #6163
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Yup, I had that happen too. Those dim LEDS in the RS are pretty useful. I even went as far as to wiggle the sensor harness a little at both ends while pulling full throttle on the bench to ensure the rigors of racing weren't cancelling turbo as the car jostled on the straight.
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:27 PM   #6164
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The V200 is much smoother than V199 and the V200 Turbo delay little later the 199....just my opinion
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:28 PM   #6165
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hey brandon
Make sure your senorless wire isn't broken connection...mine did last weekend...
Sensor wire is good. Short of losing the turbo, the car seems to run normal. If I try and run my car in sensored only mode, without the sensor wire, car doens't even move... it just ticks and rocks back and fourth... ask me how i know
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