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Old 08-03-2009, 12:05 PM   #5581
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thanks for the quick replys guys yea im only running 13.5 stock no higher

cheers
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:41 PM   #5582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriiick View Post
After a super quick initial contact to Tekin regarding returning my RS since last month, i have yet to hear back from them despite my sending them 4 emails since.

Can someome tell me if they have been on vacation or at travelling to major races recently ?

Thanks !
No racing/vacations right now. If people are gone it will say "gone racing along with where,etc."

Try calling support.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:56 PM   #5583
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Randy I see on the site that there are new rotors.

TT2273 13.0mm BL ROTOR
TT2277 13.0mm BL TORQUE ROTOR
TT2277 14.0mm BL HI-TORQUE ROTOR recommended for use with worm drive axles and other high torque applications

Is the 13mm and the 14mm better for short tracks?
And must you gear it heavier?
I have looked at the setup that you posted yesterday and the rotor on it is also 13mm.
The Timing on the motor + the Boost and the gearing is quit heavy when I compare it with what I'm used to drive.
Is this because of the rotor?
Can it handle more timing?
Will it give more acceleration for the infield?

Witch of the rotors is best for a big track? The 12,3 or the 12,5?
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:03 PM   #5584
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Basically the thinner rotors are for higher rpm and the thicker ones for more torque.
For short tight tracks you can benefit from from torque and vice versa depending on what you prefer.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:51 PM   #5585
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Thanks Razzor.
I think that I want a 13mm and an 12,3mm
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:11 PM   #5586
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The larger and torque rotors offer more torque, less rpm's. They are meant for a situation where snap is desireable.

Note: the torque line isn't ROAR legal nor is the 13mm size.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:19 PM   #5587
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What is your opinion on replacing rotors in old Tekin motors? Would a new rotor be enough to restore any performance loss in a well used, but never overheated Tekin Redline motor?

Opinions: If you were headed to a big race, would you always use a new motor, or take a known good motor and just freshen it up with a new rotor and cleaned/oiled bearings?

I plan to be running Tekin RS ESC's and Tekin Redline motors for the IIC is why I ask.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:50 PM   #5588
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Does anyone knows if I could program RS Pro with my Windows Mobile PDA?
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:52 PM   #5589
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Does anyone knows if I could program RS Pro with my Windows Mobile PDA?
Nope. Your best bet would be to get a small netbook for a few hundred bucks.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:57 PM   #5590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
Randy I see on the site that there are new rotors.

TT2273 13.0mm BL ROTOR
TT2277 13.0mm BL TORQUE ROTOR
TT2277 14.0mm BL HI-TORQUE ROTOR recommended for use with worm drive axles and other high torque applications

Is the 13mm and the 14mm better for short tracks?
And must you gear it heavier?
I have looked at the setup that you posted yesterday and the rotor on it is also 13mm.
The Timing on the motor + the Boost and the gearing is quit heavy when I compare it with what I'm used to drive.
Is this because of the rotor?
Can it handle more timing?
Will it give more acceleration for the infield?

Witch of the rotors is best for a big track? The 12,3 or the 12,5?
The larger rotor was also run because it took the heat allot better. The gearing was exactly the same when using the 12.5 rotor or 12.3 If you're use to running on the smaller tracks then the gearing will look somewhat heavy. It was run on a 160ft straight. The 12.5 rotor is back in the motor and will be run at the Topgun race here in a couple of weeks.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:05 PM   #5591
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I don't get a new motor for each race, that's excessive. I've ran a 17.5 into the ground melting the front wye plate out of it(I had witness's, and NO it's not reccomended) and simply soldered it back up and proceeded to drop 10 seconds off my best qualifier and make the A! LOL Not bad for an offroad guy.

Seriously though, yes if you feel that your motor has given up some performance a new rotor should get you back in the game.

TT2271 12.3mm Stock Roar Legal
TT2272 12.5mm Stock Roar Legal
TT2276 12.5mm Torque Rotor
TT2277 13mm Torque Rotor
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:08 PM   #5592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
TT2271 12.3mm Stock Roar Legal
TT2272 12.5mm Stock Roar Legal
TT2276 12.5mm Torque Rotor
TT2277 13mm Torque Rotor
Do all those rotors fit all of the 1/10th scale line of Redline Sensored motors?
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:18 PM   #5593
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randy,
are you or someone else for Tekin going to be at the IIC race in Vegas to help with the setup and programming of speed controls? Also will we need to have our hotwire with us or will u have a hotwire for everyone to use? Thanks for the great product.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:20 AM   #5594
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I have a problem. My motor cogs everytime I hit the brakes then I gas it right away. And when that happens, it would make some weird squealing noises. Not like when you hear the motor peak when you pull the trigger. Mine would go but I would hear a somewhat "resistance" sound and it would not hit the peak rpm "sound".

Here are the things I tried to fix it:

1. Replaced the sensor wire (brand new) - still getting the "cogging sound" and not hear the peak rpm tone.

2. Tear the motor down and cleaned it. I checked the rotor if it was cracked or if it snapped - no cracks ; rotor is looking fine.

3. Upload an old firmware; calibrated the esc & radio; tried the motor - there is still "cogging"

4. Reuploaded my setup firmware (v189); calibrated the esc together with the radio - problem is still there.

5. Tried a different motor (Not Tekin) - same thing but a LOT less if anything.. there's none.

Prior to this happening. I hit the wall and ever since I can't get the system to work - well it works but I would witness the "cogging". More so when I hit the brakes then gas it right away.

Setup:
v189
FDR 4.8 (best setting compared to my old 4.2 - motor come off cool; infield and top end is insane; weird thing is I tried 4.8 FDR using v198 and it was SLOW)
NW 10
Motor timing 10
Boost 20
Drag 0
Brake 100
Linear
Cut off 6.0 (2S lipo)
Brushless Fwd only
Tekin 13.5 with RS
Sensored
Never thermalled my motor.

Is it safe to say my motor is done? Or is it the esc? If it's the esc, how long does it normally take for Tekin to fix it if I send it in for repairs?

Thanks in advance
~Mark
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Old 08-04-2009, 07:17 AM   #5595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bukil View Post
I have a problem. My motor cogs everytime I hit the brakes then I gas it right away. And when that happens, it would make some weird squealing noises. Not like when you hear the motor peak when you pull the trigger. Mine would go but I would hear a somewhat "resistance" sound and it would not hit the peak rpm "sound".

Here are the things I tried to fix it:

1. Replaced the sensor wire (brand new) - still getting the "cogging sound" and not hear the peak rpm tone.

2. Tear the motor down and cleaned it. I checked the rotor if it was cracked or if it snapped - no cracks ; rotor is looking fine.

3. Upload an old firmware; calibrated the esc & radio; tried the motor - there is still "cogging"

4. Reuploaded my setup firmware (v189); calibrated the esc together with the radio - problem is still there.

5. Tried a different motor (Not Tekin) - same thing but a LOT less if anything.. there's none.

Prior to this happening. I hit the wall and ever since I can't get the system to work - well it works but I would witness the "cogging". More so when I hit the brakes then gas it right away.

Setup:
v189
FDR 4.8 (best setting compared to my old 4.2 - motor come off cool; infield and top end is insane; weird thing is I tried 4.8 FDR using v198 and it was SLOW)
NW 10
Motor timing 10
Boost 20
Drag 0
Brake 100
Linear
Cut off 6.0 (2S lipo)
Brushless Fwd only
Tekin 13.5 with RS
Sensored
Never thermalled my motor.

Is it safe to say my motor is done? Or is it the esc? If it's the esc, how long does it normally take for Tekin to fix it if I send it in for repairs?

Thanks in advance
~Mark
That squealing noise is the sound you get when you do not have the sensor harness in. You said you replaced the sensor wire and the motor so that leaves your ESC. I'd call Tekin support to get that fixed.
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