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Old 07-30-2009, 07:52 PM   #5476
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Originally Posted by Fred_B View Post
Some times the motor will run hot if it's revving out all the time. In that case running a bigger pinion can actually make the motor run cooler. The sweet spot gets smaller as you add timing.

Just goes to show that you need to practice with a few different ratio's and find the best gear for what you're running.
+1 Its finding that sweet spot for each motor that is a pain. On the revving out thing though, usually when a motor runs at full RPM instead of constantly pulling more load to accelerate I've found them to run cooler. Again, it all depends on that particular motor. I've had none, zero, no heat problems with my RS and 7.5 in my Losi truck.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:52 PM   #5477
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Originally Posted by Fred_B View Post
Some times the motor will run hot if it's revving out all the time. In that case running a bigger pinion can actually make the motor run cooler. The sweet spot gets smaller as you add timing.

Just goes to show that you need to practice with a few different ratio's and find the best gear for what you're running.


not sure if that was just a general comment or a reply to the post
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:27 PM   #5478
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You are ABSOLUTELY wrong, but I'm done with this......by the way we in the educated world spell "tork" like this TORQUE.......

I'm out on this one....... Ignorance must be bliss......

How about this: Ever heard "Gear Down" Lower gear = more torque
"Gear Up" Higher gear = more speed

If you put a higher gear ratio in your car you will go faster on top speed........closer to 1:1 the farther from 1:1 the more torque you will have.

A 2.73:1 ratio is more top end
A 4.11:1 ratio is more torque or bottom end

I won't respond to more of this nonsense.....Look it up!
When you Gear up or gear down, that terminology is for transmission gear ratios. Race cars have replaceable individual gear sets so the ratios can be changed. To gear up for top speed you would change the top gear (5th) in a 5 speed to gain more top end but not change the diff ratio to harm acceleration.
In road racing, you gear from the slowest corner on up.
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:55 PM   #5479
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Gearing it at 4.2 will give you your top end, gearing it for a lower FDR than 4.2 is possible, but not allowable per the rules. Gearing it at 4.8 will give it better infield speed. From past experience, most people don't get passed on a long straight, they get blown by in the infield. Temp is real important to the 21.5s they get real slow when they overheat.

yeah i ran on our small track tonight just hammerin on the speed o and motor.. i baught one of those LRP fan/heat sinks and after 5 minutes i was running 98 degrees... with timing boost on 5 so i think i may turn it up to 8 or so...

Alex
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:08 PM   #5480
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Both right, each looking from different ends. Terminology is confusing.
1+
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:49 PM   #5481
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Can someone please post that pic of the tape they put around the receiver connector again? Thank you!
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:56 PM   #5482
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i haven't seen a response to post yet (i may have missed it) and if i understand what is trying to said i agree.

I've keep reading about dropping 4 teeth, or 6 teeth or whatever, it seems to me that a brushless motor, has a gear ratio that it runs best at. different brands motors have a different gear ratio IMO. at home i ran a 5.2 all the time, when i went to jonesboro i discovered that by going to a 4.7 the motor ran well but got hot, but i needed more if i was going to even think about running with Mr. Tag, so i tried a different size spur and went to a 4.23 and the motor actually ran cooler. when i came home i ran the same ratio and ran away with the races. I've used this ratio at jonesboro, med size outdoor track and hot has hell temps, I used the same ratio at SIR air conditioned indoor asphalt small track and at Fantasy World Racing track, google it for videos that show the size of track. last week i got to try version 199 after using version 198 the week before, I geared down and felt i lost all the infield rip the car had while only maintaining the same straight away speed. i geared back up, infield rip came back and straight away speed went up. what am i doing wrong or different then everyone else. or is it one of those wierd things that happens some times. thanks and looking forward to 200.

What size spur did you change from and to. This is interesting that changing the spur & pinon sizes but maintain or increase the gearing would cause the motor to run cooler. I've done a fare amount of research via the internet for ways to optimize spur to pinon sizes for a given ratio but have had no luck so far.

Is there a chance your gear mesh was tight for your original spur and after replacing it was loser?
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:01 AM   #5483
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The engineering standard is that high ratios are (for example) 1:1 and 2:1 in gearing, and low ratios are (for example) 10:1 and 12:1 - the bigger the number, the lower the ratio.
Using "high" and "low" is confusing, which is why most full size car people use "short" or 'tall".
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:25 AM   #5484
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Actually "high" and "low" are what most people use. Just check your friendly 4x4 parked in your driveway and see what it reads on the transfer box shifter (or on the dashboard if you have those little lights). Everybody knows you use "low" to go through places where you need shedloads of torque but have very little use for speed like sand dunes and "high" when you drive along on the freeway and need more speed and less torque.

It gets confusing when people say things like "high gearing" and "high gear ratio" in the same discussion, because "high gearing" would have you think they are chasing speed (i.e. a big pinion driving a small-ish spur) whereas a high gear ratio would have you think small pinion-big spur (therefore arithmetically the ratio is high but the "gearing" is low). Think FDR 5 compared to FDR 6. The former requires a "higher gearing" then the second one, but the gear ratio is bigger in the second instance! A short explanation with your discussion partner usually clears out the issue in no time.

But indeed "tall" and "short" are used too albeit with a subtle hue to them. I have found these are used more to suggest the gear spacing when talking about gearboxes (a tall ratio box is one built for speed and takes a longer time to upshift, a short box is built for motorkhana/hillclimb and you can go blindingly fast through the gears whilst keepig the engine RPM within a peaky narrow power band).

The other use is when speaking about diff ratios and then again "tall" and "short" suggest how quickly you can go through gears (therefore application and engine type used i.e. lazy low rev torquey like a big V8 or a screamy little in line four or rotary).

But I don't have any problem reading anyone's thought as long they are clear and "light" and "heavy" were clear enough for me. A lighter gearing will impose less "labouring" of the motor, allowing it to spin freely and quickly reach it's optimal efficiency/power ratio band (which is where you want to have an electric motor), whereas a "heavier" gearing will impose some stress on the motor therefore potentially "labouring" it at low speeds in exchange for the benefit of a higher top speed on the open section of a track. This to me means that "light"=geared for acceleration (short) and "heavy"=geared for speed (tall).
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:29 AM   #5485
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one says go low and the other says go high but the real winner is the guy on the sidelines who is having fun wathcing the other two beat the crap out of each other lol

bk speedo

pm if you need some help with gearing up here in the mountains. i dont know what car you run but i have some good starting points
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:48 AM   #5486
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Hi Guys

I'm getting into 4wd onroad mod with Schui 3.5 and have started with a 6.5 Redline with the 13mm rotor. Just wondering of any of you have experience with this motor and any advice on gearing.

Cheers
Adrian
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Old 07-31-2009, 06:30 AM   #5487
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Hi Guys

I'm getting into 4wd onroad mod with Schui 3.5 and have started with a 6.5 Redline with the 13mm rotor. Just wondering of any of you have experience with this motor and any advice on gearing.

Cheers
Adrian
I use a redline 6.5 in my wet car. Gearing varies depending on the track, but I'm finding that anywhere from around 7.5 to 6.0 depending on the size of the track is a good ratio.
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:27 AM   #5488
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I'm not being lazy but i'm not reading through 365 pages to find an answer that might not be here I've just got an Tekin RS and want to know what the highest timing boost i can use on a Novak 10.5ss. I think i saw somewhere that the Novak comes from the factory with some advance already set does anyone know if this is true and if so what is it set at. The motor is new and hasn't had the timing changed. I did try a search of the thread on novak but no results were returned.
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:39 AM   #5489
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Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Can someone please post that pic of the tape they put around the receiver connector again? Thank you!
I used 3M Scotch® Filament Tape or battery tape for my connector.
Just cut the tape little smaller than the connector.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:58 AM   #5490
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
i haven't seen a response to post yet (i may have missed it) and if i understand what is trying to said i agree.

I've keep reading about dropping 4 teeth, or 6 teeth or whatever, it seems to me that a brushless motor, has a gear ratio that it runs best at. different brands motors have a different gear ratio IMO. at home i ran a 5.2 all the time, when i went to jonesboro i discovered that by going to a 4.7 the motor ran well but got hot, but i needed more if i was going to even think about running with Mr. Tag, so i tried a different size spur and went to a 4.23 and the motor actually ran cooler. when i came home i ran the same ratio and ran away with the races. I've used this ratio at jonesboro, med size outdoor track and hot has hell temps, I used the same ratio at SIR air conditioned indoor asphalt small track and at Fantasy World Racing track, google it for videos that show the size of track. last week i got to try version 199 after using version 198 the week before, I geared down and felt i lost all the infield rip the car had while only maintaining the same straight away speed. i geared back up, infield rip came back and straight away speed went up. what am i doing wrong or different then everyone else. or is it one of those wierd things that happens some times. thanks and looking forward to 200.
That happend to me to with the speedpassion motor.
Each motor has his own gearing.
I drive with the Speedpassion motor on my home track with a gear ratio of 5,0 to 5,4FDR. With my LRP 6,0 to 6,5FDR and my Tekin Redline motor 6,9FDR.
This was whit the Tekin motor 5,4FDR when I didn't hath the V199.
I tried the speedpassion with a light gearing and it was a disaster.
The motor hath no power.
I went back to 5,2FDR with the speedpassion. The motor runs when I gear 4,9FDR even better but with hot wetter the motor gets to hot.
I use with the LRP and the Tekin motor Max Turbo. With the speedpassionmotor I use 5 Turbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred_B View Post
Some times the motor will run hot if it's revving out all the time. In that case running a bigger pinion can actually make the motor run cooler. The sweet spot gets smaller as you add timing.

Just goes to show that you need to practice with a few different ratio's and find the best gear for what you're running.
thats true but I use now on most tracks the same Boost and motor timing.
This makes it easier to find the right gearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
+1 Its finding that sweet spot for each motor that is a pain. On the revving out thing though, usually when a motor runs at full RPM instead of constantly pulling more load to accelerate I've found them to run cooler. Again, it all depends on that particular motor. I've had none, zero, no heat problems with my RS and 7.5 in my Losi truck.
I find now faster and faster the right gearing.
I use 90% of the time the Tekin motor now and I learn better and better to find the right gearing.
When I change from motor I must start over again but the LRP and Speedpassion is now for me easier.


Each motor has his own gearing.
With motors like the Tekin and LRP, you can gear very light (small pinion and Big spur gear)
The speedpassion and the GM motor like a heavier gearing. I don't have a good setup for a GM motor. Most drivers that have one her complain about it and I don't find a good setup for it.
For the Tekin RS speedo I like the RPM motors the most.
These motors run great with a light gearing and a bit more Timing.
Just gear them light and you go faster and faster.
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