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Old 07-30-2009, 05:32 AM   #5446
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you would probably find you going to a smaller pinion ranging anywhere from 4 to 7 teeth smaller.
Just for all who need to reference, is this for 48dp, or 64dp? im guessing 64?
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:36 AM   #5447
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Just for all who need to reference, is this for 48dp, or 64dp? im guessing 64?
Sorry, should have mentioned that.
Yes on 64 pitch.
For 48 pitch you would probably look at 2 to 4 teeth smaller.
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:38 AM   #5448
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Sorry, should have mentioned that.
Yes on 64 pitch.
For 48 pitch you would probably look at 2 to 4 teeth smaller.
Thanks
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:31 AM   #5449
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yes I run 64pitch gears....

The class I run is trans-am and our gearing has to stay between 4.2 - 4.6 FDR...

on the small track i gear it down to 4.6FDR and afer 6 minutes it was in the LOW 130F range...

last night on the big track at 4.4FDR it came off after 6 to 8 minutes at 140F...

I'm geared at 4.4 now but for the big track 1/4 down the back stretch it falls on its face and has no more acceleration... Taller gears would help this but I like the infield speed...



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Old 07-30-2009, 07:53 AM   #5450
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yes I run 64pitch gears....

The class I run is trans-am and our gearing has to stay between 4.2 - 4.6 FDR...

on the small track i gear it down to 4.6FDR and afer 6 minutes it was in the LOW 130F range...

last night on the big track at 4.4FDR it came off after 6 to 8 minutes at 140F...

I'm geared at 4.4 now but for the big track 1/4 down the back stretch it falls on its face and has no more acceleration... Taller gears would help this but I like the infield speed...



Alex
Use that setup with the Turbo.
It will kick in on the straight and you will have enough power on the straight.
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:09 AM   #5451
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The tuesday joke is funny, I'm gonna use that next time! LOL

I'm shooting for this week soon. We do thouroughly test public loads though so have some patience with us, it WILL be worth the wait.
BOOYa... if you can get it up for the weekend, that would be stellar!
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:11 AM   #5452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hound_dogs_01 View Post
The class I run is trans-am and our gearing has to stay between 4.2 - 4.6 FDR...

on the small track i gear it down to 4.6FDR and afer 6 minutes it was in the LOW 130F range...
Unless its a local track rule, VTA allows you to go beyond the 4.6 recommendation - just not higher than 4.2. I run in the 4.7 to 4.8 range for a 100' straight track and will try a 5.0 to 5.2 when the turbo gets released.

On larger parking lot tracks (130') I try to get as much top gear on it without going over 170*. That usually means about a 4.5 ratio with 0* timing on the motor and 28 boost on the ESC.
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:19 PM   #5453
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so you can run lower but not higher????

our track gives some le way... hell last week in the vintage race i didnt have a body yet but had everything else and i took the wing of my mazda 6 boday and ran it....

i may try the 4.8 set up friday night and see how that works... on the little track i can already pull people 5 6 lengths on a 60' straight lol

Alex
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:32 PM   #5454
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so you can run lower but not higher????

our track gives some le way... hell last week in the vintage race i didnt have a body yet but had everything else and i took the wing of my mazda 6 boday and ran it....

i may try the 4.8 set up friday night and see how that works... on the little track i can already pull people 5 6 lengths on a 60' straight lol

Alex
When you gear it lighter, you will get faster lap times.
You win more speed in the infield.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:24 PM   #5455
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Probably a stupid queestion, but what are those tiny little tubes that come in the "accessory pack" for?
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:28 PM   #5456
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I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:37 PM   #5457
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I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Are you using a voltage booster or external battery pack to power the electronics? (Separate power supply for the receiver, servo, RS and Transponder)
Most ESC's need something to boost the voltage closer to 5 or 6 volts for the control circuitry to operate properly, a 3.7 volt single LiPo has not quite enough voltage to operate that part of the circuitry.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:48 PM   #5458
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I'm just about to start playing with 1s but the problem is probably with the receiver not getting enuff power. There is an rs thread i think for 12th scale which goes on about those problems somewhere on rc tech.

You will need to run a receiver pack or a booster. Running a booster is easiest because you dont have to recharge the the receiver pack (from what i can tell the novak smart boost is the most reliable option). If you get a lipo receiver pack make sure you get a voltage regulator to step down the voltage of the 2s receiver pack to 6 volts.
Oh also if you run the receiver pack you are meant to remove one of the pins from the plug before you plug the rs into the receiver. Yes one of those pins on the end of the black/red/white cable (such a pain) im not sure if you have to do that for the booster i need to do more research.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:52 PM   #5459
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No, I'm not running a booster or anything. The really odd thing is I put the exact same settings into the RS in my touring car and plugged teh 1c into it and it worked. It did not do the beeping when it armed, but it did arm and run the motor.
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:53 PM   #5460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Probably a stupid queestion, but what are those tiny little tubes that come in the "accessory pack" for?
Slide them on the capacitors leads for some protection.
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