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Old 07-28-2009, 05:25 AM   #5356
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so say 3.00 FDR is lighter than a 4/00 FDR
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:25 AM   #5357
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Default Software 198 settings and rollout on a 5.5 help please

My RS is currently sitting in a GT10 using 1S lipo for the very first time. Novak booster fitted.
A REDLINE 5.5BL fitted looking for rollout and ESC settings.Plan to run indoors on carpet .
Any help appreciated.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:32 AM   #5358
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so say 3.00 FDR is lighter than a 4/00 FDR
yes
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:35 AM   #5359
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ok thanks for clearing that up mikky

Alex
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:47 AM   #5360
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so say 3.00 FDR is lighter than a 4/00 FDR
HUH??? 3.00 FDR is a bigger pinion than a 4.00! 3.00 would be a higher gear ratio.....less torque more top end......

I would think that this would be HEAVIER than 4.00 NOT LIGHTER?!?!
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:51 AM   #5361
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Mikky when you say gear heavier or lighter i tend to get confused...

which one is gearing high/low?

sorry just wondering

Alex
I don't think TC3TEAM has helped by saying
Quote:
You're giving the motor more load with a lower gear ratio, hence the heat
The lower the FDR number, the HIGHER the ratio. Think of it like the gears in a manual car;

High ratio = Top speed
Low ratio = Acceleration
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:04 AM   #5362
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I don't think TC3TEAM has helped by saying

The lower the FDR number, the HIGHER the ratio. Think of it like the gears in a manual car;

High ratio = Top speed
Low ratio = Acceleration
I know what higher and lower is just couldnt figure out what heavy and light referd to....

Alex
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:22 AM   #5363
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Sorry guys, uber,uber busy day in the office

Yes, exactly what you are describing... I would call 8.0 fdr a high ratio, a 4.0 a low ratio, if that contradicts what i've said already

A wrong gear ratio will heat the motor up more, whatever way you look at it.

A high ratio on a big track can make you hit your peak rpm too early, a low ratio on a small track will take you a century (and several wide corners) to find the top end speed such ratio gives, with no low down torque...

Think of it as trying to accelerate to full speed in a full size car when you're in 5th gear and going slowly. Its not healthy for an engine, its probably not healthy for an ESC/motor either...
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:27 AM   #5364
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Has anyone had any probs burning an RS when using too much timing?? Or I guess that can be the only thing that could've burnt mine past weekend.

I drive 1/12th 4cell and was driving a GM EVO3 9.5 with a new rotor (12.5mm) in it. I had the motor on std timing and had the advanced timing set on about 2/3rds of what can be set (I think 20).
Running free the motor had an incredible amount of revs, on track it wasnt that impressive. I raced the same setup, gearing on this EVO3 with my R1 for over a year without any heat probs (3-4 leds showing).
The RS ran fine for about 20 packs, had good rip on another 9.5 motor.
The EVO3 was working fine in my PRO10 on a 7.4Lipo using a R1 pro.

Ran 3 batteries with the evo3 and the RS, first 2 runs only 4 leds showing heat. 3rd run the car stalls on the straight, all LEDs blinking and I measured 100degr.C . But it smelled burnt.
Let it cool, now it only says wrong motortype connected.
Personally I think its strange the Temp protection kicks in when the ESC has prolly already received deadly heat.

I asked a repair number at Tekin and I'm waiting for it. I know their service is top notch and I kinda hope they offer a swap action (with extra money of course).

But I dont want this prob to happen again, so would it be possible to destrao the ESC when setting too much timing (which I even doubt I did).
I had a similar problem. I thought that I had fried my RS Pro because it would not work, saying wrong motor type. It was actually my motor that had a burned winding, the RS was fine. Another racer I race with had a car loose all power, when the turn marshal pulled the car off of the track the solder joints had actually come unsoldered from the heat. The RS was fine but the motor had burned a winding which had dead shorted the motor. Both of these situations were caused by having too much timing in these motors over long periods of time. My motor had seven 5 minute races on it before this happened, my friends about the same.

Last edited by Bob~H; 07-28-2009 at 07:31 AM. Reason: add info
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:29 AM   #5365
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sorry I made a mistake.
3,0 is heavier than 4,0FDR.
sorry hath to go to the dentist!!
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:40 AM   #5366
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Heavy = low gear ratio 4.00

Light = high gear ratio 3.00

Alex
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:48 AM   #5367
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Heavy = low gear ratio 4.00

Light = high gear ratio 3.00

Alex
No when you compare it like 3.0FDR to 4.0FDR. The 3.0FDR is heavier than the 4.0FDR.
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:50 AM   #5368
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Originally Posted by Bob~H View Post
I had a similar problem. I thought that I had fried my RS Pro because it would not work, saying wrong motor type. It was actually my motor that had a burned winding, the RS was fine. Another racer I race with had a car loose all power, when the turn marshal pulled the car off of the track the solder joints had actually come unsoldered from the heat. The RS was fine but the motor had burned a winding which had dead shorted the motor. Both of these situations were caused by having too much timing in these motors over long periods of time. My motor had seven 5 minute races on it before this happened, my friends about the same.
I didnt test the EVO3 again, but it told wrong motor type on 3 different motors of which 2 are definately 100% ok.
But I'll check the EVO3 on one of my R1's to make sure.

In 4 cell 9.5t applications you always use a lot of timing, You cant compare this to 6 cell or LIPO racing... . The motor itself wasnt really warm, under 50degr C.
Sadly the ESC itself does smell quite burned so I'm guessing a few FETs burned. This will prolly also explain the error it gives, it also gives it without the motor wires attached to the ESC.
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:59 AM   #5369
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No when you compare it like 3.0FDR to 4.0FDR. The 3.0FDR is heavier than the 4.0FDR.
ok thanks

Alex
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:24 AM   #5370
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im starting with Tekin RS, updating my esc with hotwire, show me the green box, reading some posts here on thread, i tried to change the values, and download to esc but persists the green box, im using the 198 firmware and using with brushed motors, maybe this is a problem?


Ps.: sorry for my bad english
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