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Old 06-29-2009, 06:24 PM   #4591
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
It makes a different.
When I gear lighter the Turbo kicks in at about 15m on the straight.
When I gear heavy and I let the boost on what it is and the Turbo also. The Turbo kicks in at about 25m.
So it makes a different. I didn't change the time when the turbo must kick in, only the gearing.
When I lower the boost. the Turbo also kicks in faster.
That's something I will play arond with the next time out.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:32 PM   #4592
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Capt: If you reset your radio's model memory you will then need to calirate the esc by holding down the mode button and initiating the sequence. It will look for nuetral first and once found chime, pull full throttle, it will chime again, then full brake, again chiming once found. Go to nuetral, calibration complete.

You must do this anytime you reset your radio's model memory OR upgrade/downgrade your ESC software.

Not doing so will cause erratic ESC operation.


Doing a "Facotry reset" will place ALL settings in default and once again, you MUST calibrate the esc to the radio after this.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:34 PM   #4593
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Cpt A: Your esc/radio issue sounds a bit off. Wierd for sure. The 3 led's are telling you that your nuetral has wandered away from the original set point you programmed the RS with in the first place. If you reset your model you MUST recalibrate your esc.

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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Capt: If you reset your radio's model memory you will then need to calirate the esc by holding down the mode button and initiating the sequence. It will look for nuetral first and once found chime, pull full throttle, it will chime again, then full brake, again chiming once found. Go to nuetral, calibration complete.

You must do this anytime you reset your radio's model memory OR upgrade/downgrade your ESC software.

Not doing so will cause erratic ESC operation.


Doing a "Facotry reset" will place ALL settings in default and once again, you MUST calibrate the esc to the radio after this.
As always, Mr. Pike is always right. Cracked up the manual, did a recalibration (ppshhh.. super easy) and everything works fine! Vuala... Thanks again.

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Last edited by Cpt.America; 06-29-2009 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:34 PM   #4594
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WORD!

Glad to see it was something easy. Yes if you ever have an odd issue between the Radio and Speedo it's often a calibration issue. I had a few guys rush up to me at the race I was attending(Norcal Offroad Champs) and it was simply that they were on the wrong model! LOL

Hey, it happens...
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:44 PM   #4595
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WORD!

Glad to see it was something easy. Yes if you ever have an odd issue between the Radio and Speedo it's often a calibration issue. I had a few guys rush up to me at the race I was attending(Norcal Offroad Champs) and it was simply that they were on the wrong model! LOL

Hey, it happens...
Hey, im not that bad! It was strange to me for two reasons:

1) both my Xray, and my GFs Xray had zero issues just wiring it up, and turning it on. They both worked from day one with no issues.

2) My WGT car, on its own radio profile worked perfectly great for one whole day, then not again, only working after I reset the model.

Seems almost counter intuitive that it would be a calibration issue, at least to somebody a little bit out of "the know"....

Thanks again for the help, now if i could JUST get a little more "turbo" out of my ESC, i woudl be set ... *hint* *cough 199 cough* *hint*
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:35 PM   #4596
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Been running the turbo software in single cell 17.5 12th blows away the spx at our track . Have'm in the infield and down straight too in 75 x 45 carpet track
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:42 PM   #4597
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Randy pike, please check PM's...

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Old 06-30-2009, 12:45 AM   #4598
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Just as a rule of thumb i recalibrate my radio to esc everytime i make changes to the esc. The esc calibrates so easy its no inconvenience at all.
My radio throttle end points stay at 100% and no exponential is used.
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Old 06-30-2009, 05:21 AM   #4599
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Hey, im not that bad! It was strange to me for two reasons:

1) both my Xray, and my GFs Xray had zero issues just wiring it up, and turning it on. They both worked from day one with no issues.

2) My WGT car, on its own radio profile worked perfectly great for one whole day, then not again, only working after I reset the model.

Seems almost counter intuitive that it would be a calibration issue, at least to somebody a little bit out of "the know"....

Thanks again for the help, now if i could JUST get a little more "turbo" out of my ESC, i woudl be set ... *hint* *cough 199 cough* *hint*
Just wait.
The public version is almost ready.
2 tips.
1. Gear your car much lighter. And with much I mean a lot.

2. Get a Tekin Redline motor.
I have 3 stock motors.
A Speedpassion 10,5T
A LRP X11 10,5T
A Tekin Redline 10,5T
The Tekin is the fastest of those 3 by far.
The Tekin keeps on accelerating.

The Turbo kicks in more smoothly as you gear light and that will make it feel like it keeps accelerating from the beginning of the straight until the end.

I can tell you that now the Tekin is the fastest on all the tracks.
With the Turbo it got such a lot of extra power that it is now the fastest.
Best infield and on of the highest top speeds.

Great work TeamTekin and thanks for letting my try the 199 software.
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:58 AM   #4600
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
...
1. Gear your car much lighter. And with much I mean a lot...
Sorry but I'm not familiar with the terms "light" and "heavy" when referring to gear ratios. Does gearing light refer to using a smaller pinion / larger spur?
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:11 AM   #4601
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Sorry but I'm not familiar with the terms "light" and "heavy" when referring to gear ratios. Does gearing light refer to using a smaller pinion / larger spur?
Thats correct.
Lighter/shorter for faster/quicker accelleration.
heavy/longer for more speed.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:14 AM   #4602
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Correct
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:55 AM   #4603
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Sorry but I'm not familiar with the terms "light" and "heavy" when referring to gear ratios. Does gearing light refer to using a smaller pinion / larger spur?
Yes.
thanks razzor.

Gearing without the Turbo from my Redline 10,5T motor on 5 cell.
Boost 18
Motor 12
5,12 FDR.

Now the same motor but with the Turbo.
Boost 23
Turbo on Max
Motor on 12
6,78 FDR

Resuld of the Turbo.
I drive now 0,3 sec per lap faster with a motor that stays under the 180 F.
So my power is there till the end of the race. Also I have more infield speed and a higher top speed.
I kept the topspeed just a bit higher than withoud the Turbo.
I can gear 1 or 2 tooth heavier but than I must go off the throttle ad the end of the straight to much.
The Turbo kicks in more smooth now and ads some ting extra.
I find this the best setup ad the moment for my home track with this motor.

The 5 extra boost give a smoother speed to the Turbo.
As I leave the 5 boost away, you see the Turbo jumping in some more but than I have just before the Turbo a kind of slower part. the Acceleration stops for a short moment.

The LRP motor is geared about 6 FDR
the speedpassion about 5,4 FDR.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:01 AM   #4604
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Thats correct.
Lighter/shorter for faster/quicker accelleration.
heavy/longer for more speed.
Now I'm confused.

lighter = smaller pinion and bigger spur?

heavy = larger pinion and smaller spur?
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:11 AM   #4605
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Now I'm confused.

lighter = smaller pinion and bigger spur?

heavy = larger pinion and smaller spur?
You've got it right.

Gearing lighter means gearing down and making the load on the motor "lighter"

Gearing heavier means gearing up for more top speed, thus putting a "heavier" load on the motor.
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