Tekin RS ESC sensored
06-22-2009, 01:50 PM
#4411
Maybe I'm a little different I don't want a ton of brake strength. I want just enough to get the car slowed down to make a corner(That's if I need to use the brake at all.) I also have no ability to feather the brake at all so it's either off or on. On my WGT I'm running 100% brake strength with 40 drag brake and then the brake turned down to 60 on the radio. This seems to give me plenty of brake without get the car sideways if I have to lock it up. As for punch this ESC has plenty as well. I've actually programmed some throttle delay.
06-22-2009, 01:51 PM
#4412
Tech Master
I drive Tekin RS Pro + Tekin 10,5 combo and I don't have problems with brake. In the last race I used 80% brake. I have more break with Tekin than with LRP speedos.
Tekin is working great but.... Here in Spain, tracks are large and I need more top speed. Hope to have turbo option for the 1st week of July because LRP SPX stock is beating Tekin drivers.
Tekin is working great but.... Here in Spain, tracks are large and I need more top speed. Hope to have turbo option for the 1st week of July because LRP SPX stock is beating Tekin drivers.
Also you can gear lighter than what you do now and you get even more infield speed.
It's incredible.
Do you drive 5 cell in Spain?
I used the Tekin RS Pro with the Tekin Redline motor.
Geared lighter than all the other drivers.
I drive 5 cell 10,5T. I was geared as the 10,5T Lipo class and i hath a lot of power. THe other drivers used a FDR of 5 or even lower. my FDR was 6.
It felt that i was still to heavy geared.
My top speed was the highest and i hath a great infield speed.
In a couple of days I try it again with an other motor and Boost setting.
12 on the motor and 18 on the Boost.
This must give me some more speed.
Also I try some lighter gearing. I'm thinking 6,2 to 6,3FDR or even lighter.
The Tekin Redline motors love rpm and not a little bit more than the other motors but a lot more.
06-22-2009, 01:58 PM
#4414
Tech Master
Maybe I'm a little different I don't want a ton of brake strength. I want just enough to get the car slowed down to make a corner(That's if I need to use the brake at all.) I also have no ability to feather the brake at all so it's either off or on. On my WGT I'm running 100% brake strength with 40 drag brake and then the brake turned down to 60 on the radio. This seems to give me plenty of brake without get the car sideways if I have to lock it up. As for punch this ESC has plenty as well. I've actually programmed some throttle delay.
Also a lot of drag brake. I used 20 last race and i'm going to put it back to 0.
Than the fast corners you can go of your throttle and don't lose to much speed.
In the slower corners i brake a bit. Not on my home track but on small indoor track were I drive when it rains and in the winter.
I drive a TC 4wd and not a direct drive.
06-22-2009, 02:17 PM
#4415
Strange way to adjust your brake. Why not 100% on your radio and about 50 to 60 on your speedo?
Also a lot of drag brake. I used 20 last race and i'm going to put it back to 0.
Than the fast corners you can go of your throttle and don't lose to much speed.
In the slower corners i brake a bit. Not on my home track but on small indoor track were I drive when it rains and in the winter.
I drive a TC 4wd and not a direct drive.
Also a lot of drag brake. I used 20 last race and i'm going to put it back to 0.
Than the fast corners you can go of your throttle and don't lose to much speed.
In the slower corners i brake a bit. Not on my home track but on small indoor track were I drive when it rains and in the winter.
I drive a TC 4wd and not a direct drive.
06-22-2009, 02:21 PM
#4416
Tech Regular
I'm running a 4wd sedan. If that were the case, I'd lose traction mid-corner upon application of throttle but that does not happen. It's hard to describe, but I've tested a LRP with the same car, same tires, same motor, same gearing and the throttle has a more direct feeling as well as more low end punch. I find that the throttle feel is more linear and less exponential compared to the Tekin. The Tekin feels soft around 0-35% of throttle travel, so I find myself staying at the 40 to 100% of the throttle most of the time (while dropping down to 0 or -100% to slow down and brake), whereas for the LRP the powerband is more usable from 0 to 100% throttle. I've spent a lot of time adjusting the Tekin but I haven't been able to figure out how to get it to have that linear feel/powerband.
06-22-2009, 02:21 PM
#4417
Tech Rookie
In Spain we run with 2S Lipos+10,5 en Stock class. I've tested 20-30 boost with 4-12 motor timing and 5.3 to 5.5 ratio and the motor finish after 5minuts at 70-80Cº. I will try 15 boost and 15 motor timing with 5.8 ratio for this track: htt p://img5.imageshack.us/img5/477/dsc00233w.jpg ( This is the largest track we run with TC )
What throttle profile are you using mikky32?
What throttle profile are you using mikky32?
06-22-2009, 02:32 PM
#4418
I'm struggling with the same braking problems mentioned earlier. I'm using a 13.5 and 198 software (also tried 194). Even with the brakes turned to 100%, radio properly calibrated (LEDs flash at full throttle and full brake), the braking is way too weak. It almost seems like the brakes work okay at low speed, but from a high speed they are very weak.
Also - I've had this problem for a while - the ESC seems to lack punch and is very soft from the first 30-50% of the throttle travel. I've already set it to profile 5 (most aggressive) and even adjusted throttle curve on the transmitter, but it still doesn't have the direct feel of some other ESCs I've used. Newest version of the firmware doesn't seem to help.
Also - I've had this problem for a while - the ESC seems to lack punch and is very soft from the first 30-50% of the throttle travel. I've already set it to profile 5 (most aggressive) and even adjusted throttle curve on the transmitter, but it still doesn't have the direct feel of some other ESCs I've used. Newest version of the firmware doesn't seem to help.
at slow speeds and on the car stand its working fine but at speed it just wont slow down fast enough. I thought the wheels where locking up and reduced the brake strength but no difference.
I have to brake or start braking 5 meters before the hairpin on the back straight compared to other guys braking 2 meters or so before the hairpin.
For the time being i am adapting and driving around the problem.
Have contacted Randy and im sure they will have an idea of what is the hassle be it esc or on my radio etc..
06-22-2009, 02:42 PM
#4419
Tech Master
In Spain we run with 2S Lipos+10,5 en Stock class. I've tested 20-30 boost with 4-12 motor timing and 5.3 to 5.5 ratio and the motor finish after 5minuts at 70-80Cº. I will try 15 boost and 15 motor timing with 5.8 ratio for this track: htt p://img5.imageshack.us/img5/477/dsc00233w.jpg ( This is the largest track we run with TC )
What throttle profile are you using mikky32?
What throttle profile are you using mikky32?
I try 12 on the motor and 18 on the boost in a couple of days.
I use throttle profile 5.
Nice track. With the Turbo you will be a lot faster there.
Than you can go to 5,8 or even lighter.
For now keep about a total timing of max 50.
when you go max 45 timing in total you can gear a bit heavier.
06-22-2009, 02:51 PM
#4420
Tech Rookie
I drove boost max and 4 on the motor. But i changed back to 0 on the motor.
I try 12 on the motor and 18 on the boost in a couple of days.
I use throttle profile 5.
Nice track. With the Turbo you will be a lot faster there.
Than you can go to 5,8 or even lighter.
For now keep about a total timing of max 50.
when you go max 45 timing in total you can gear a bit heavier.
I try 12 on the motor and 18 on the boost in a couple of days.
I use throttle profile 5.
Nice track. With the Turbo you will be a lot faster there.
Than you can go to 5,8 or even lighter.
For now keep about a total timing of max 50.
when you go max 45 timing in total you can gear a bit heavier.
06-22-2009, 03:44 PM
#4423
I'm running a 4wd sedan. If that were the case, I'd lose traction mid-corner upon application of throttle but that does not happen. It's hard to describe, but I've tested a LRP with the same car, same tires, same motor, same gearing and the throttle has a more direct feeling as well as more low end punch. I find that the throttle feel is more linear and less exponential compared to the Tekin. The Tekin feels soft around 0-35% of throttle travel, so I find myself staying at the 40 to 100% of the throttle most of the time (while dropping down to 0 or -100% to slow down and brake), whereas for the LRP the powerband is more usable from 0 to 100% throttle. I've spent a lot of time adjusting the Tekin but I haven't been able to figure out how to get it to have that linear feel/powerband.
06-22-2009, 03:53 PM
#4424
i am experiencing the same brake problem.
at slow speeds and on the car stand its working fine but at speed it just wont slow down fast enough. I thought the wheels where locking up and reduced the brake strength but no difference.
I have to brake or start braking 5 meters before the hairpin on the back straight compared to other guys braking 2 meters or so before the hairpin.
For the time being i am adapting and driving around the problem.
Have contacted Randy and im sure they will have an idea of what is the hassle be it esc or on my radio etc..
at slow speeds and on the car stand its working fine but at speed it just wont slow down fast enough. I thought the wheels where locking up and reduced the brake strength but no difference.
I have to brake or start braking 5 meters before the hairpin on the back straight compared to other guys braking 2 meters or so before the hairpin.
For the time being i am adapting and driving around the problem.
Have contacted Randy and im sure they will have an idea of what is the hassle be it esc or on my radio etc..
regards clinton
06-22-2009, 04:25 PM
#4425
I drive the 10,5T class and i used the last race y brakes. It was the first head on 100%. I stopped as fasted as the other speedo's.
The last head i used 70% brake. And i found it still to much braking power.
Normally i don't use my brakes.
In the winter i drive 10,5T Lipo on a small track. My brakes work there great.
Don't see a problem with the brakes.
I can tell you that i drive A main at the small indoor track with my 10,5T Lipo so it is possible to drive with the Tekin RS Pro with a 10,5T.
My stopping distance was the same as the other speedo's.
Did you use the 198?
The last head i used 70% brake. And i found it still to much braking power.
Normally i don't use my brakes.
In the winter i drive 10,5T Lipo on a small track. My brakes work there great.
Don't see a problem with the brakes.
I can tell you that i drive A main at the small indoor track with my 10,5T Lipo so it is possible to drive with the Tekin RS Pro with a 10,5T.
My stopping distance was the same as the other speedo's.
Did you use the 198?
(2) I dont think there is any argument that the TEKIN RS PRO works at SLOWER speeds (small tracks, or whatever). As mentioned in my original post, the car brakes ok at about 60% of race speed. So lets NOT debate that the RS PRO brakes at slower speeds.
(3) The problem is HIGH speed braking, which is obviously more noticeable on large flowing tracks. Using the TEKIN 10.5 with boost, the car is almost as fast as the modified guys, but the FDR is quite different. I can assure everyone that the car just rolls, the wheels are not even remotely close to locking up. Other TEKIN RS PRO drivers at my track, and on this forum, report the same braking issue under similar racing conditions.
(4) Hopefully it can be fixed in firmware, and does not require a hardware modification.
Cheers
