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Old 06-21-2009, 08:14 PM   #4396
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Originally Posted by Fred_B View Post
I normally see the three LED thing happen when I use the wrong model on my radio. It's from the speedo seeing a signal that's too far from neutral. The speedo will failsafe and it won't start up. Keeps the car from going nuts if you have a radio issue.

Does the same thing if you crank in drag brake using the trim instead of the speedo setting.
hhmm... Thanks, I appreciate it.
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:30 PM   #4397
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Question for the gurus:

New WGT car... got it all wired up and running just fine in my living room last night. Today is race day... so I get there... recharge the battery (1s) real quick, and get ready to take it out onto the track... With the radio on, and the power switches on the car on (esc and booster)... all i got was 3 fast blinking LEDs on the esc... after about 5 minutes, it started working all by itself.

Any clues? My sedan had zero issues with the same radio.

-Cpt.
That is your RS telling you either the signal is too high or too low depending on which led's of 3 are lit. Either way my first questions is where is your NW set? I don't like to see anything lower than 10 for just this reason. Too narrow will cause nuetral issues which in turn can cause lack of drab brake or a car that "feels" off.
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:31 PM   #4398
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Hey, Randy!

Any word yet on the 1s lipo software? I will be running both 17.5 and 13.5 at the IIC in Vegas and as you know, all of 1/12th and World GT is now single cell lipo.

Thanks!!
Download the latest 198 from the site. The 1s is good to go now.
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:37 PM   #4399
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That is your RS telling you either the signal is too high or too low depending on which led's of 3 are lit. Either way my first questions is where is your NW set? I don't like to see anything lower than 10 for just this reason. Too narrow will cause nuetral issues which in turn can cause lack of drab brake or a car that "feels" off.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:09 AM   #4400
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Default The elephant in the room: Brakes

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Hi,

(2) All of the RS PRO drivers (inc me) complain that the brakes are minimal.
Need to brake very early, and run the risk of other cars running up rear end.
RS PRO brakes are set at maximum (100%) by all drivers.

(3) On the (relatively) small-ish back straight, at full brakes, it takes about 20++ feet to slow down for a tight 90 degree right hand corner (followed by a 110 degree left hander). It I braked at a point that seemed more in line with the other cars, i would go about 4-5 feet past the corner.

(4) One of the marshal's commented to me it was obvious that other cars were able to brake later into that corner than my car.

(5) The 10.5 Brushless class dont have great braking power, but the RS PRO seems more limiting.

(6) I tried going from an FDR of 4.3 to 5.1 in an attempt to load up motor when off power and braking. I might have got more braking, but I'm not sure.

(7) I have double checked throttle and brake end points and all appears OK. End points are easy to check with the RS PRO as all the leds flash at max throttle, and max brakes. I have also increased the drag brake.

** I'd be very interested in others experiences with this combination. **
I feel your pain, as do the other 5 or 6 Tekin speedo users I know.

We did a comparison at my local track between the LRP SPX and the Tekin using the same motor (Orion 13.5). The LRP can stop from full speed in 3 or 4 metres. The Tekin took 6 or 7 metres. It's not the motor, it's the speedo.

Come on Tekin, it's a great speedo but it could be better still if you did a software update for the brakes.
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:11 AM   #4401
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I feel your pain, as do the other 5 or 6 Tekin speedo users I know.

We did a comparison at my local track between the LRP SPX and the Tekin using the same motor (Orion 13.5). The LRP can stop from full speed in 3 or 4 metres. The Tekin took 6 or 7 metres. It's not the motor, it's the speedo.

Come on Tekin, it's a great speedo but it could be better still if you did a software update for the brakes.
Hi,

(1) Looks like your experiment matches very closely our TEKIN RS PRO drivers experience.
That is, TEKIN RS PRO takes about DOUBLE the stopping distance.

(2) It is really impossible to compete in the 10.5 class without better brakes.
Not only from my perspective but all the other non-TEKIN RS PRO drivers which are avoiding my early braking car.

Cheers -
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:41 AM   #4402
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Sedan + Tekin RS pro + 17.5 = I usually set my brake at 80 and I can slow pretty well for most corners (about where I want it)

WGT + Tekin RS + 13.5 = 100 brake strength is almost NO brakes.. it rolls and rolls and rolls.
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:30 AM   #4403
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Sedan + Tekin RS pro + 17.5 = I usually set my brake at 80 and I can slow pretty well for most corners (about where I want it)

WGT + Tekin RS + 13.5 = 100 brake strength is almost NO brakes.. it rolls and rolls and rolls.
Perfect! You need almost no brakes in the WGT. Even when I was running a Sphere I could not get the car stopped on the incline at FW.
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:16 AM   #4404
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Just got an RS Pro and Hotwire: I plan to run it 17.5 in my new Tamiya F104 F1/pan car.

What would be a good starting setup, esc programming wise.

thanks,
Jay
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:23 AM   #4405
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Hi,

(1) Looks like your experiment matches very closely our TEKIN RS PRO drivers experience.
That is, TEKIN RS PRO takes about DOUBLE the stopping distance.

(2) It is really impossible to compete in the 10.5 class without better brakes.
Not only from my perspective but all the other non-TEKIN RS PRO drivers which are avoiding my early braking car.

Cheers -
I drive the 10,5T class and i used the last race y brakes. It was the first head on 100%. I stopped as fasted as the other speedo's.
The last head i used 70% brake. And i found it still to much braking power.
Normally i don't use my brakes.
In the winter i drive 10,5T Lipo on a small track. My brakes work there great.
Don't see a problem with the brakes.
I can tell you that i drive A main at the small indoor track with my 10,5T Lipo so it is possible to drive with the Tekin RS Pro with a 10,5T.

My stopping distance was the same as the other speedo's.
Did you use the 198?
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:10 PM   #4406
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I drive Tekin RS Pro + Tekin 10,5 combo and I don't have problems with brake. In the last race I used 80% brake. I have more break with Tekin than with LRP speedos.

Tekin is working great but.... Here in Spain, tracks are large and I need more top speed. Hope to have turbo option for the 1st week of July because LRP SPX stock is beating Tekin drivers.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:17 PM   #4407
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My experience indicates brake strength is directly related to battery voltage, the wind of motor, and the number of drive wheels. The lower the voltage, the higher the wind, and the fewer drive wheels, the weaker the brakes. So we'd have a 2 cell mod sedan on one end of the brake spectrum, and a 1 cell stock pan car on the other.

Capt, your WGT car is one motor wind away from the least powerful brake combination. I imagine doubling the voltage and the drive wheels is what gives you the braking you like in your sedan.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:24 PM   #4408
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Well his WGT and my WGT should be fairly close (though I am running round cells) and I have a ton of brakes available if I want them...I ended up running my brake strength at max and my drag brake at 60% At least that's what I recall...I'll have to hook up my Hot Wire tonight and double check.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:29 PM   #4409
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I'm struggling with the same braking problems mentioned earlier. I'm using a 13.5 and 198 software (also tried 194). Even with the brakes turned to 100%, radio properly calibrated (LEDs flash at full throttle and full brake), the braking is way too weak. It almost seems like the brakes work okay at low speed, but from a high speed they are very weak.

Also - I've had this problem for a while - the ESC seems to lack punch and is very soft from the first 30-50% of the throttle travel. I've already set it to profile 5 (most aggressive) and even adjusted throttle curve on the transmitter, but it still doesn't have the direct feel of some other ESCs I've used. Newest version of the firmware doesn't seem to help.
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Old 06-22-2009, 02:49 PM   #4410
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Originally Posted by Potato View Post
I'm struggling with the same braking problems mentioned earlier. I'm using a 13.5 and 198 software (also tried 194). Even with the brakes turned to 100%, radio properly calibrated (LEDs flash at full throttle and full brake), the braking is way too weak. It almost seems like the brakes work okay at low speed, but from a high speed they are very weak.

Also - I've had this problem for a while - the ESC seems to lack punch and is very soft from the first 30-50% of the throttle travel. I've already set it to profile 5 (most aggressive) and even adjusted throttle curve on the transmitter, but it still doesn't have the direct feel of some other ESCs I've used. Newest version of the firmware doesn't seem to help.
Not sure what type of car you are running and this is just a thought but is it possible that the punch is too agressive and you are spinning the tires and not getting traction? Which might make it seem like you don't have punch?
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