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Old 06-20-2009, 11:05 PM   #4381
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Originally Posted by higbo View Post
Before releasing the software, put the instructions for people to prepare, and ask questions
This is why the team gets it first. I will make sure to have known good setups so customers can get it right (or at least close) right out of the gate.
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:08 AM   #4382
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Hi,

(1) I've had two race meets with the RS PRO and new Hot Bodies Cyclone TC.
The track is large with a couple of very tight corners.
The right sweeper + main straight total about 220+ feet.

There are now three RS PRO drivers at the track.
There are:
-- 2 RS PRO + 10.5 Redline Brushless
-- 1 RS PRO + 17.5 Redline Brushless.
All three are running v198 software.

I can get my 10.5 almost as fast as the mod cars.
However, this has drawbacks as you will see below.

(2) All of the RS PRO drivers (inc me) complain that the brakes are minimal.
Need to brake very early, and run the risk of other cars running up rear end.
RS PRO brakes are set at maximum (100%) by all drivers.

(3) On the (relatively) small-ish back straight, at full brakes, it takes about 20++ feet to slow down for a tight 90 degree right hand corner (followed by a 110 degree left hander). It I braked at a point that seemed more in line with the other cars, i would go about 4-5 feet past the corner.

(4) One of the marshal's commented to me it was obvious that other cars were able to brake later into that corner than my car.

(5) The 10.5 Brushless class dont have great braking power, but the RS PRO seems more limiting.

(6) I tried going from an FDR of 4.3 to 5.1 in an attempt to load up motor when off power and braking. I might have got more braking, but I'm not sure.

(7) I have double checked throttle and brake end points and all appears OK. End points are easy to check with the RS PRO as all the leds flash at max throttle, and max brakes. I have also increased the drag brake.

** I'd be very interested in others experiences with this combination. **

Cheers
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:54 AM   #4383
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I have the latest update as downloaded from the tekin website. The one with the known flaw of max boost of 45, which we have been told not to use more then 30. I then downgraded to 194, and still get a max boost of 45.

It says now that its running on version 194, but its not.

I cant understand how tekin can release a known bug.
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Old 06-21-2009, 06:00 AM   #4384
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Did you delete all files including the hidden Vista file before reinstalling?
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Old 06-21-2009, 06:52 AM   #4385
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yes, I followed those instructions regarding deleting the hidden files in vista.

does anyone know where I can get version 194 only?

I'm going to 194 as I do not feel any difference from versions upwards from 194.

edit, found an old 194 that I downloaded once upon a time
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:26 PM   #4386
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I hath a great day today. Not in the results because of my driving qualities but because of the incredible power of the Tekin RS Pro with the Tekin Redline 10,5T motor on 5 cell.
I found a good setup but i now i can improve it even more.
I hath the fastest car on the track. 5,98FDR and 4 timing on the motor and boost max. I think that 0 on the motor was better and maybe even 6,2FDR or lighter.

Thanks Randy for the advise of gearing lighter.
I must go much lighter and not a little bit.

Some surprised drivers when i geared my car 1FDR lighter than the other drivers and that i told them that i will go lighter next time.

I agree with Randy. Try to get some good help from GM with your setup.
Or try to find out how it works.
Or when you have problems with your LRP. email LRP or try to contact them as you have a problem.
No give me Tekin. They work hard to improve the software and help you also when you have problems.
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:37 PM   #4387
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Well I had a not so good day with my Tekin yesterday though the RS performed very well considering. The issue was not with the ESC or Motor (I hope) but looks like my sensor wire failed. So I ended up running sensorless. Fortunately the RS can run in that mode and I was able to keep racing Starts were a bit rocky but once the car got going it was still the fastest one on the track Now to test it with another sensor wire and hope that is the problem and not failed sensors on the motor.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:10 PM   #4388
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Ok I just tested the motor out on a different RS and different sensor wire and it is doing the same thing. When I pull the trigger some times it is fine and other it stutters...like it is going in and out of sensored mode. Since it seems to swap back and forth do you think it could just be a dirty sensor? Or is it more likely a sensor went bad?
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:20 PM   #4389
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Ok I just tested the motor out on a different RS and different sensor wire and it is doing the same thing. When I pull the trigger some times it is fine and other it stutters...like it is going in and out of sensored mode. Since it seems to swap back and forth do you think it could just be a dirty sensor? Or is it more likely a sensor went bad?
try an other motor.
or clean the motor. most of the time it's dirty.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:23 PM   #4390
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Yeah that's what I'm doing now...couldn't figure out how to take the sensor board out to clean that though so I just hope I sprayed it out good enough.
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:10 PM   #4391
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Yup...looks like that was the problem. Cleaned out the motor and it appears to be working just fine now

This does bring up something interesting though...when on the light right next to the 3 sensor lights is on bright. This makes it really difficult to see that first sensor light to check the sensors are working. Just a suggestion, Tekin may want to change it so the light that stays lit indicating it is on is just a little farther away from the sensor lights, or make the sensor lights come on a bit brighter.
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Old 06-21-2009, 06:53 PM   #4392
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Question for the gurus:

New WGT car... got it all wired up and running just fine in my living room last night. Today is race day... so I get there... recharge the battery (1s) real quick, and get ready to take it out onto the track... With the radio on, and the power switches on the car on (esc and booster)... all i got was 3 fast blinking LEDs on the esc... after about 5 minutes, it started working all by itself.

Any clues? My sedan had zero issues with the same radio.

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Old 06-21-2009, 06:56 PM   #4393
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
This is why the team gets it first. I will make sure to have known good setups so customers can get it right (or at least close) right out of the gate.
Hey, Randy!

Any word yet on the 1s lipo software? I will be running both 17.5 and 13.5 at the IIC in Vegas and as you know, all of 1/12th and World GT is now single cell lipo.

Thanks!!
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Old 06-21-2009, 06:57 PM   #4394
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
Hey, Randy!

Any word yet on the 1s lipo software? I will be running both 17.5 and 13.5 at the IIC in Vegas and as you know, all of 1/12th and World GT is now single cell lipo.

Thanks!!
1s lipo cutoff feature has been working on the RS for quite a while.. 3 or 4 months now? something like that. There is a dedicated thread for it in the same forum (electric onroad)
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Old 06-21-2009, 07:55 PM   #4395
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Question for the gurus:

New WGT car... got it all wired up and running just fine in my living room last night. Today is race day... so I get there... recharge the battery (1s) real quick, and get ready to take it out onto the track... With the radio on, and the power switches on the car on (esc and booster)... all i got was 3 fast blinking LEDs on the esc... after about 5 minutes, it started working all by itself.

Any clues? My sedan had zero issues with the same radio.

-Cpt.
I normally see the three LED thing happen when I use the wrong model on my radio. It's from the speedo seeing a signal that's too far from neutral. The speedo will failsafe and it won't start up. Keeps the car from going nuts if you have a radio issue.

Does the same thing if you crank in drag brake using the trim instead of the speedo setting.
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