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Old 06-11-2009, 01:59 PM   #4231
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The Novak motors ballistic series is 20 degrees of timing the factory!!! (3.5T)
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Old 06-11-2009, 03:37 PM   #4232
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Would I be right in saying that by marking the centre of the total movement clockwise and anti clockwise on a Novak would give the point of 0 degrees timing? In other words, can the Novaks be retarded as much as advanced?
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Old 06-11-2009, 03:48 PM   #4233
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The velociti novak motors do not come at 0 timing! This has been the cause of many overheated motors where people assume that no timing marks/non-adjustable means 0 and then boost the heck out of them. The motors come with approximately 15 degrees, but I have been told anywhere from 12 to 20. Give novak a call to find out what your motor is most likely at. When I was still running novak motors with my RSpro I would use 15 boost on small/med tracks and 20 on very large tracks.
edit: well Steve from Novak says they come with 25 degrees from the factory (wow!). I suppose I should put 5 degrees on the ESC then?
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Last edited by stitchy; 06-11-2009 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:35 PM   #4234
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edit: well Steve from Novak says they come with 25 degrees from the factory (wow!). I suppose I should put 5 degrees on the ESC then?

For 17.5 try starting out with full boost on the speedo and minimum timing on the motor. From there you can add motor timing a little at a time if you need more speed on the straight.

When you add motor timing the gearing will get more sensative. Be careful and it will take a lot less gear if you add much timing to the motor. Remember to gear for laptimes not motor temperature. Only check the motor temp to see that the motor is not overheating (170 deg F is about as high as you want to go with the Novaks).
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:41 PM   #4235
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Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
edit: well Steve from Novak says they come with 25 degrees from the factory (wow!). I suppose I should put 5 degrees on the ESC then?
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Originally Posted by Fred_B View Post
For 17.5 try starting out with full boost on the speedo and minimum timing on the motor. From there you can add motor timing a little at a time if you need more speed on the straight.

When you add motor timing the gearing will get more sensative. Be careful and it will take a lot less gear if you add much timing to the motor. Remember to gear for laptimes not motor temperature. Only check the motor temp to see that the motor is not overheating (170 deg F is about as high as you want to go with the Novaks).
NO! Do not run full boost in the speedo if your Novak motor is fixed at 25 deg.!

If the Novak is truly at 25 deg., play it safe and add 5 boost. Gear to about 4.0 FDR and watch temps.

For reference, my 17.5 FDR is about 4.2 with about 5 deg. on the motor and 25 deg. boost.
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:47 PM   #4236
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NO! Do not run full boost in the speedo if your Novak motor is fixed at 25 deg.!

If the Novak is truly at 25 deg., play it safe and add 5 boost. Gear to about 4.0 FDR and watch temps.

For reference, my 17.5 FDR is about 4.2 with about 5 deg. on the motor and 25 deg. boost.

Simply turn the motor timing down to minimum. It's not that hard. The Novaks seem to run better with high boost timing and low motor timing.

Your results may vary but I've run plenty with the 17.5 Novak motors with the set-up I described. Just watch for heat like I said.
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:49 PM   #4237
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Thanks for all the input, guys. I'm gonna run this setup in TCS which doesn't allow you to change the timing on the motor (?). I'm gonna play it safe and add 5 degrees on the ESC and see what happens. I'll also go conservative on the gearing, start at 4.5 and go from there.
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:56 PM   #4238
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Originally Posted by MoGGo View Post
Would I be right in saying that by marking the centre of the total movement clockwise and anti clockwise on a Novak would give the point of 0 degrees timing? In other words, can the Novaks be retarded as much as advanced?

Judging by how the sensors line up no. Minimum timing on the motor probably has some advanced timing. Most motors have some timing advance built in at minimum timing.

I would not start with any timing added to the motor. You can add some motor timing a little at a time as long as you gear accordingly and watch the temps.

Go too far with the timing and you'll just get a hot motor (regardless of gear) and if you go to the extreme, it will start to cog and run funny.
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Old 06-11-2009, 05:01 PM   #4239
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Hi
I am a new GM120 user, so cand you answer me a couple of questions please

I normally run a GM 13.5 motor with a Nosram SPEC esc in mode 8, and am geared at 5.7, what will my gearing by now in mode 8 on the GM120

Also when im outside on tarmac, I am geared at 4.5 with the Nosram with a GM 13.5 motor, what will be the gearing now please.

Also I don't understand what you mean by mode 8 copied onto mode 3, please explain

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Old 06-11-2009, 05:12 PM   #4240
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Hi
I am a new GM120 user, so cand you answer me a couple of questions please

I normally run a GM 13.5 motor with a Nosram SPEC esc in mode 8, and am geared at 5.7, what will my gearing by now in mode 8 on the GM120

Also when im outside on tarmac, I am geared at 4.5 with the Nosram with a GM 13.5 motor, what will be the gearing now please.

Also I don't understand what you mean by mode 8 copied onto mode 3, please explain

Cheers Malc TCCFM
wrong thread Malc
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:00 PM   #4241
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I've just downloaded the latest software (198) from the Team Tekin website and it seems max boost is 45. I thought it was only meant to go to 30?

Can anyone shed any light on this?
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:09 PM   #4242
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Too bad this has gotten so complicated. We need to verify, but my guess is the motors are set around 10deg physical timing like they have always been. That means the real timing is about 25deg or more because of the 15deg 'early read' of the sensors seeing the magnet coming. That is what we should have been talking about all along is the real timing, but not all motors have the same offset so the physical position of the sensors is what we talk typically talk about to be consistent. People can see it and understand it.

IE if you set the Tekin motor at 10deg on the endbell you really have at least 25deg of real timing. Unless I am wrong the setups should not change much with the new Orange motors. You should still figure they are set at about 10deg to get your 30total between motor timing and boost timing.

To be sure we should ask Scuba Steve if that 25deg is physical position of the sensors or real timing.

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Old 06-11-2009, 06:16 PM   #4243
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Too bad this has gotten so complicated.

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Old 06-11-2009, 06:23 PM   #4244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamTekin View Post
if you set the Tekin motor at 10deg on the endbell you really have at least 25deg of real timing. Unless I am wrong the setups should not change much with the new Orange motors. You should still figure they are set at about 10deg to get your 30total between motor timing and boost timing.

To be sure we should ask Scuba Steve if that 25deg is physical position of the sensors or real timing.

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Steve refers to it as "true timing" and "real degrees of timing."

From what you said above, should we still consider this as 10* and set ESC timing at 20*? Sorry if that's a dumb question, as this stuff is confusing!
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:24 PM   #4245
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now im really confused.

So, with the old software, 30 max boost was really 45 total timing including tekins inbuilt 15 timing sensored mode, IF motor timing was set to 0, which in most cases is set at 10.
So if I set my 30max boost, then the total timing I have been using is 30+15+10=
55 total timing?
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