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Old 06-02-2009, 07:43 AM   #4066
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
How did you get the boost to max in the first place? Someone else do it?

Yes, you need to lower boost. It's not something just to set to "max". With that LRP's fixed 12 or so of timing you boost should be about 18 to start and watch temps. I think you'll find your FDR is about right after that.
Thanks thats what I need to know;yes someone else maxxed it outwhen they put in 1.98 as I don't have a hotwire. Maybe Shreff can help me.
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:47 AM   #4067
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Thanks thats what I need to know;yes someone else maxxed it outwhen they put in 1.98 as I don't have a hotwire. Maybe Shreff can help me.
If you can't find anybody local... you can mail it to me and ill program it for you and mail it back. Youll have to pay for return shipping though. Just a last resort.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:02 AM   #4068
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Thanks thats what I need to know;yes someone else maxxed it outwhen they put in 1.98 as I don't have a hotwire. Maybe Shreff can help me.
If Shreff or Ron don't get it for you this weekend. I will do it for you on the 13th.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:00 AM   #4069
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
...

Your boost will not go to 45 even if it's showing it.

...
I know that boost has been discussed to death here, and mostly I understand it now, but I'm still confused on two points related to ESC timing.

1) The current (3.25) Hotwire, in sensored-only mode, displays a boost slider that goes from some small number (0 or 1) to 45.

My understanding is that on previous versions this slider went to 30.

I think what happened is that because a typical motor, even with zero mechanical timing advance, has 15 degrees of "pre read" advance, you baked 15 extra degrees into the boost scale. So on 3.25 Hotwire, 45 is really 30 boost, 15 is really zero boost, and who knows what 14 is (presumably zero, since negative boost is clearly a bad thing).

You did this because some people were setting too much total advance (when boost was kicked in) the way things were before, and you hope that by making the numbers larger people will be more careful and not burn up so many motors. But if somebody sets a mechanical timing advance greater than zero, so their actual timing advance in the motor is greater than 15, they still must be aware of this and reduce their boost accordingly, or they will burn up their motor.

Correct?

2) The timing advance slider is displayed only in dual mode. However, because the RS fails over to dual mode when it detects a sensor failure in sensored-only mode, it is a good idea to set timing advance even in sensored-only mode.

To make this setting, you select the dual mode checkbox, then make the timing advance setting, then select the sensored-only checkbox. Even though the timing advance setting is now gone from view, the value you have set will be written to the RS the next time you perform "apply settings".

Correct?

Thanks!
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:30 PM   #4070
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Originally Posted by Skitee View Post
Maybe that's a problem with the actual sensor board in the motor, do the led's go off or change at all if you change the rotor position.
The sensor board can go bad suddenly??

the leds stay dim even when i change the rotor position....
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:17 PM   #4071
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So I see this doesnt work on a Mac. Can i adjust the timing without the Hotwire?
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:34 PM   #4072
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The sensor board can go bad suddenly??

the leds stay dim even when i change the rotor position....
Yes sometimes the sensors/sensor board in the motor can develop a problem for no reason.

Have you tried doing a factory default reset on your ESC ? Then re-load your current version of software onto the ESC . I'm sure you're aware but just in case you aren't, you will have to redo the ESC/Radio setup too.
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:04 PM   #4073
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So I see this doesnt work on a Mac. Can i adjust the timing without the Hotwire?
Nope sorry.Timing can only be adjusted thru the hot wire
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:05 PM   #4074
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Randy,

(1) I uninstalled the current hotwire software from my Windows XP machine, downloaded the latest software from the Tekin website, installed it, updated the ESC with 198 firmware and got the SAME RESULTS.

(2) Just to reiterate ...

(a) In SensoredOnlyMode, the MotorType (on ESC display) shows all 7 LEDs on.

(b) I tried running the car in SensoredOnlyMode and the top 3 LEDs are faintly lit even up to maximum throttle. This indicates that the ESC is using the sensors at all throttle positions (so its not in DualMode, which is encouraging).

(c) I verified the current settings in the ESC, and it is definitely using v198 (I get the extra tick boxes for 1s lipo, etc).

(d) The ESC indicates the following settings:
Drag Brake = 1 (none)
Brake Strength = 13 (max)
Current Limiter = 13 (none)
Neutral Width = LED 4-5
Throttle Profile = LED 1-3 (Linear)
MotorType = ALL LEDs ****should be LED 1 only****
Voltage Cutoff = LED 1-2 (6Volts)

(e) If I change the MotorType at the ESC, the hotwire indicates that the operating mode is now DualMode. NOTE: This might be how it is intended to work, but I don't recall anyone mentioning this before?

What The ????
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Cosmo,

I'm going to my workshop to check out this issue. I'll have an answer for you soon.

The yellow/green box has been explained. It's looking for some "values" that simply don't exsist in the 198 software but do exsist in the 199 that I'm testing. We uploaded the latest hotwire but did not give anyone the 199 software. It knows this and is letting you know.

IT also happens if you hook up an esc that has lower software in the PC that is in the esc.

It causes no ill effects though.

You are correct that if the 3 last led's stay cycling throughout that you are indeed in sensored only mode.
Randy,

Were you able to confirm (or otherwise) my results

Cheers
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:14 PM   #4075
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so when do we get a version for the enlightened
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:58 PM   #4076
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Cosmo,

Yes and I can explain it too! LOL

What is happening is that after 194 software we allowed MT 7 to become sensored only mode WITHOUT using the Hotwire. What is happening is that the RS is seeing you select sensored only mode forward only and it knows that these selections are MT 7 so that is what it's displaying to you.

No worries. We had to do this since we only have 7 led's on the array. Nice find. I had forgotten that it was even there it's been so long since we discussed it, lol.


If you are seeing 45 in you timing boost setting you have some conflicting software and need to start over. Make sure you uninstall the current version through control panel, restart, if you have Vista you MUST remove the hidden file PRIOR to installing the new software.

I've only seen this on a version of 194 that had a bug and showed 45 but only actually boosted to 30.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:25 PM   #4077
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Cosmo,

Yes and I can explain it too! LOL

What is happening is that after 194 software we allowed MT 7 to become sensored only mode WITHOUT using the Hotwire. What is happening is that the RS is seeing you select sensored only mode forward only and it knows that these selections are MT 7 so that is what it's displaying to you.

No worries. We had to do this since we only have 7 led's on the array. Nice find. I had forgotten that it was even there it's been so long since we discussed it, lol.


If you are seeing 45 in you timing boost setting you have some conflicting software and need to start over. Make sure you uninstall the current version through control panel, restart, if you have Vista you MUST remove the hidden file PRIOR to installing the new software.

I've only seen this on a version of 194 that had a bug and showed 45 but only actually boosted to 30.
(1) So what I previously thought was a "feature" - actually is !!
That is, SensoredOnlyMode+BL/FW=7 LEDs.
** Do I get a special prize **
NOTE: This "feature" is present in the v194 and v198 RS firmware.

(2) You didn't answer my other observation, but I think I now understand based on the new "feature".

(2a) OK, I set SensoredOnlyMode+BL/FW via Hotwire, I then check the ESC and discover 7 LEDs, so I go "what the ????" I had better set it to BL/FW (1 LED) which I do. However, the ESC kicks out of SensoredOnlyMode to DualMode because of the new "feature" now available at the ESC. That is, MotorType has been extended to include SensoredOnly+BL/FW, and indicated using all 7 LEDs on, HOWEVER, all the other MotorTypes (LEDs 1-6) are still associated with the default DualMode.

(2b) This "feature" really needs describing on the Tekin web site. I'm sure others will find it useful.

(2c) So I can now change the standalone ESC between DualMode (and all its settings) and SensoredOnlyMode (without the ability to change any of this mode's specific settings - boost & turbo). Maybe the next version of the Tekin ESC can have a couple of spare LEDs for future stuff like this, or better still, a really cheap interface box with a couple of rows of alpha-numeric chars that can be easily customised.

(3) I'm not getting 45 in the timing boost (never have), so you must be confusing me with someone else.

Cheers
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:34 AM   #4078
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For you computer guru's.

I have a older laptop that I want to take to the track. It only has 1 USB in it. It's the original USB not the newer 2.0 type. I have hotwire 3.25 installed on it. When I connect the hotwire and the RS Pro to the laptop in the USB, I get a red flashing light in the RS Pro and a green light with what appears to be 4 small red lights in the hotwire. When I run the software program it says it does not see the speed control and shuts down.

I also do not get anything out of the USB port when using other items, such as camera downloading cables or even memory sticks. My thinking "would" be that the USB port is bad. Why do the Hotwire and the speedo see power and display their lights. When I use these items on my PC everything works just as they should, anybody know anything about this or have any ideas.

Thanks guys,
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:38 AM   #4079
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Maybe a USB driver update is required
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:42 AM   #4080
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Maybe a USB driver update is required

Skitee,

I did try that, I should have mentioned that before. I also do not see any conflicts in device manager either. OS is windows XP

Thanks,
Steve
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