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Old 05-18-2009, 11:43 PM   #3811
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Grats!! How big was the track?
Thanks. They consider it a large track, I dont have any measurements at this stage but it's fairly free flowing and has a nice long front and back straight.

Cheers
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:27 PM   #3812
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Basic question:

In the voltage cutoff section, I can right click the adjustment traingle, and choose 1 cell, 2 cell, 3 cell, etc. But it doesn't actually say what voltage cutoff that is. I can only assume its using 3v per cell. My question is , how do I set it for a specific custom cuttoff? I am running a 2s and I would like to be able to set it to 6.2 volts instead of 6.0 (which is what I assume it is using when you select 2s)
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:00 PM   #3813
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Basic question:

In the voltage cutoff section, I can right click the adjustment traingle, and choose 1 cell, 2 cell, 3 cell, etc. But it doesn't actually say what voltage cutoff that is. I can only assume its using 3v per cell. My question is , how do I set it for a specific custom cuttoff? I am running a 2s and I would like to be able to set it to 6.2 volts instead of 6.0 (which is what I assume it is using when you select 2s)
The standard settings are 3 volts per cell. For a custom setting keep hitting the up adjustment triangle until custom shows up.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:10 PM   #3814
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Hey guys

Just letting you all know that 1st and 3rd place were won by drivers running the Tekin RS PRO ESC and the Redline 17.5 motor in the Stock class at the Queensland Interclub round 2 event at the Sunshine Coast on the weekend. Clinton TQ'd and dominated each final and I Q'd 3rd and held my position throughout the final.

What can I say. Forget the rest, TEKIN is the best!

Cheers
Adrian
Hi, Congrats on the victory, im just gotten my rs pro like 2 days ago, so what was your FDR for the 17.5, brake, drag, boost, etc? I run at landborough too, so your advice will be very much appreciated

Thanks.
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:32 AM   #3815
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In reference to the "sensored adds 15 degrees vs. sensored does NOT add 15 degrees" posts of a few days ago, my post got lost amid a flurry of others; but I could still use some input!! Here it is:

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Ok, so I still need some help then, because I'm missing something.

I have a novak 13.5 motor hooked to my RS Pro in a rubber tire touring car on asphalt. I loaded 198 into my RS pro, started the FDR at 5.9, and set the ESC for 12 degrees of boost. My understanding is that this motor comes from the factory at ~25 degrees of timing (it doesn't have markings), which should have put me somewhere around 37 degrees of timing, which should have been a safe place to start at, considering that I was running 5.9 FDR. Everything I've read said that 5.9 was safe, and I would end up going to 5.5 or 5.6 with this setup; but I was playing it safe.

However, with this setup, the car was majorly lacking in top end (we have a 160ft straight, and after about 80 ft the other cars would simply walk away from me) AND the motor temps were into the mid 170's.. I ended up dropping two pinion sizes down to ~ 6.1 FDR to keep the motor temp under 165; with more resulting loss of top speed. The drivetrain isn't bound up or anything like that; the car ran a brushed 27 turn (co27) at the previous race and top speed was just fine.

I came home and read the tekin thread, and saw the bit about "extra 15 degrees of timing built into the ESC in sensored mode" and thought that was my problem - that i was actually running mid 50's because I had not accounted for the extra 15 degrees... So, I reset the motor to minimum timing (which according to my motor circumference to timing degrees conversion, took 13-14 degrees out of the motor).

but from what you said above, this extra 15 degrees doesn't exist, and now I'm going to be under timed and i haven't found the actual problem?

*confused*
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:50 AM   #3816
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The standard settings are 3 volts per cell. For a custom setting keep hitting the up adjustment triangle until custom shows up.
I tried that and it didnt seem to work. If I recall, I could only get it to fine tune between something like 4 and 5 volts, or 3 and 4 volts or something... but i dont recall exactly, Ill have to check it out again later when I get home.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:30 AM   #3817
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Originally Posted by slashdriver View Post
In reference to the "sensored adds 15 degrees vs. sensored does NOT add 15 degrees" posts of a few days ago, my post got lost amid a flurry of others; but I could still use some input!! Here it is:
I'm no expert, but I think people are reading way too much into the "pre-timing" in the motor. What you should do is turn the motors timing all the way down, turn the timing ring all the way clockwise. Then turn the boost all the way up on the esc. Run the car hard for a couple minutes check temps and see how the car felt punch and top speed wise and adjust gearing from there. You can add a little more motor timing, but be sure to watch your temps very closely. This is what I do, hope it helps you get up to speed.
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:15 PM   #3818
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I'm very suprised people are using 0 motor timing and max esc timing.

I have found the best results with lots of motor timing and minimal esc timing.
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:49 PM   #3819
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Hacker,

It really depends on other factors. Most onroad guys are liking the 0 motor timing full boost setup. But for offroad this isn't the ideal setup.

0 motor timing gives great rip out of the corner and the competitive top speed.

I prefer a bit of both leaning towards 10 on the motor and as much boost as I need.
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:00 PM   #3820
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Hacker,

It really depends on other factors. Most onroad guys are liking the 0 motor timing full boost setup. But for offroad this isn't the ideal setup.

0 motor timing gives great rip out of the corner and the competitive top speed.

I prefer a bit of both leaning towards 10 on the motor and as much boost as I need.
So, if I add motor timing and take away some boost. Do you go up or down in pinions?
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:10 PM   #3821
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you will need to go down on pinion, or up on spur for either/both more motor timing and/or more esc boost.
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Old 05-20-2009, 11:03 PM   #3822
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Randy or fellow Tekin users,

Previously I wrote in about my esc sudden shutdown issue and it has not been resolve yet. I have checked all the wiring, connections, rebind rx and reset the esc but to no avail.

The esc suddenly shutdown and then a while later lights 1, 3 and 5 starts blinking and after few more seconds it comes back alive.

According to the manual, lights 1, 3 and 5 are either due to low voltage cut off or overheat. I doubt it overheat since I am only using stock motor. Max temp is only 2 LEDs lit up.

I set the LVC at 7V. Could this be the root cause which cause the esc to shutdown suddenly?
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:50 AM   #3823
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Randy or fellow Tekin users,

Previously I wrote in about my esc sudden shutdown issue and it has not been resolve yet. I have checked all the wiring, connections, rebind rx and reset the esc but to no avail.

The esc suddenly shutdown and then a while later lights 1, 3 and 5 starts blinking and after few more seconds it comes back alive.

According to the manual, lights 1, 3 and 5 are either due to low voltage cut off or overheat. I doubt it overheat since I am only using stock motor. Max temp is only 2 LEDs lit up.

I set the LVC at 7V. Could this be the root cause which cause the esc to shutdown suddenly?
what is your battery voltage when this happens? If it is 7v, or even close to 7v, it is more than likely hitting the lipo cut. Remember that your battery voltage will drop under load. So if you take the battery out and find it at 7.4v or so, it might be dropping down to 7v under load and hit the lipo cut. Different batteries will drop different amount depending on the battery.

If you pull the pack out and it is 8v+, I doubt your battery is getting down to 7v. In this case, something is wrong. But let's eliminate the lipo cut first.

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Old 05-21-2009, 06:59 AM   #3824
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Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
Randy or fellow Tekin users,

Previously I wrote in about my esc sudden shutdown issue and it has not been resolve yet. I have checked all the wiring, connections, rebind rx and reset the esc but to no avail.

The esc suddenly shutdown and then a while later lights 1, 3 and 5 starts blinking and after few more seconds it comes back alive.

According to the manual, lights 1, 3 and 5 are either due to low voltage cut off or overheat. I doubt it overheat since I am only using stock motor. Max temp is only 2 LEDs lit up.

I set the LVC at 7V. Could this be the root cause which cause the esc to shutdown suddenly?
7v is very high for the LVC and can be your problem.
reduce it to 6.2v for stock classes and 6.4v for mod.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:31 AM   #3825
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Hey Randy and pals... I keep hearing people talking about "Binding your ESC to your RX"... what is this? Im an old school guy coming back after a 5 year hiatus, and have never had to do this before. On my new car, my Tekin RS pro and my Futaba 603 receiver seem to work together just fine, and I didn't "bind" anything, to anything. What am I missing?
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