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Old 05-12-2009, 09:42 AM   #3706
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Hi. It is absolutely necessary to solder in another cap? The ESC is only showing about 3 leds worth of temp. Its the motor that's running hotter. Please advise. Btw I'm running 2S Lipo (4000mAh and 20C)
I blew a cap on the R1. But i was running only 5 cell with a 4.5, with no fan.

That was a while back though and i dont know if the firmware improvements have helped out at all.
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:47 AM   #3707
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Hi. It is absolutely necessary to solder in another cap? The ESC is only showing about 3 leds worth of temp. Its the motor that's running hotter. Please advise. Btw I'm running 2S Lipo (4000mAh and 20C)
You run a 4.5t and you only get 3 lights after 5-6 minutes? Are you running in dual mode or sensord?

I run in sensord because i still didn't find speed in dual mode and then everything gets super hot (all wires connected to posts and everything connected to those wires and the cap exploded because it can't handle mod motors. I run a 4.5t novak with 7.4v lipo

With a fan i don't have any problems of overheating (in sensord)
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:43 AM   #3708
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You run a 4.5t and you only get 3 lights after 5-6 minutes? Are you running in dual mode or sensord?

I run in sensord because i still didn't find speed in dual mode and then everything gets super hot (all wires connected to posts and everything connected to those wires and the cap exploded because it can't handle mod motors. I run a 4.5t novak with 7.4v lipo

With a fan i don't have any problems of overheating (in sensord)
I see. I should think I am running in pure sensored mode since I have no access to Hotwire. The motor is set at 0 deg of timing. However I ran my car at night and without a body so that could explain the lower heat levels. Interestingly according to my manual the SP 4.5t is rated at 10800rpm/V while i think the novak 4.5R is 9000rpm/V. The difference seems rather large for a sensored motor.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:46 AM   #3709
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I blew a cap on the R1. But i was running only 5 cell with a 4.5, with no fan.

That was a while back though and i dont know if the firmware improvements have helped out at all.
I see. Do you think running a fan and a heatsink on the motor that also sorta blows towards the esc will do the job?
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:55 AM   #3710
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has tekin fixed the problem with weak breaking with the newer firmware?
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:03 PM   #3711
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I'm not sure in 198 but in version 194 I have a ton of brakes now
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:03 PM   #3712
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I see. I should think I am running in pure sensored mode since I have no access to Hotwire. The motor is set at 0 deg of timing. However I ran my car at night and without a body so that could explain the lower heat levels. Interestingly according to my manual the SP 4.5t is rated at 10800rpm/V while i think the novak 4.5R is 9000rpm/V. The difference seems rather large for a sensored motor.
You are running in dual mode. That is the standard mode without the hotwire. Put on a body and see the tempature rise

rpm's doesn't say that much because the number is measured without any load. Under load the numbers get less and it could be that the novak reaches more rpm under load then the sp. This is just an example i have no clue what the real rpm's are under load. Torque is also something to take into consideration.

Run a fan towards the posts and at least put either 2 standard caps on the esc or buy a bigger capacitor, they sell it in any electric store. I run a 16v2200 at the moment but will switch to two 10v1200 extreme low ESP soon. An exploding cap isn't something you want if it is close to the esc case. It melted the plastic top of my case and it is a little deformed now

These are my experiences of driving mod in pro10 with this esc. I am still testing it.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:40 PM   #3713
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You are running in dual mode. That is the standard mode without the hotwire. Put on a body and see the tempature rise

rpm's doesn't say that much because the number is measured without any load. Under load the numbers get less and it could be that the novak reaches more rpm under load then the sp. This is just an example i have no clue what the real rpm's are under load. Torque is also something to take into consideration.

Run a fan towards the posts and at least put either 2 standard caps on the esc or buy a bigger capacitor, they sell it in any electric store. I run a 16v2200 at the moment but will switch to two 10v1200 extreme low ESP soon. An exploding cap isn't something you want if it is close to the esc case. It melted the plastic top of my case and it is a little deformed now

These are my experiences of driving mod in pro10 with this esc. I am still testing it.
Haha. I see. Din noe that the stock config was dual mode. Body is being prepped for painting as we speak. Will 'cover' it up asap and do a few fast ones.

Just curious which mod BL motor are you running and whats your FDR? Just thought of making a comparison. If its classified information then its alright I can understand.
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:25 PM   #3714
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Well i don't know how big your track is but i drive on 1/8 gas tracks.
My motor was a 4.5t Novak velocity

If you drive pancar then my rollout from last race was roughly 29.5mm

rollout = tire size in milimeter x pi (3.1417) / spur x pinion

so 56.5mm (tire size) x 3.1417 (pi) devide bij 84t (spur) times 14 (pinion) = 29.58mm

And in sensord that went ok.

BTW if anyone knows a good setup for dual mode ( rollout and timing on a fairly big track) then i would appreciate it :-)

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Old 05-12-2009, 04:57 PM   #3715
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Well i don't know how big your track is but i drive on 1/8 gas tracks.
My motor was a 4.5t Novak velocity

If you drive pancar then my rollout from last race was roughly 29.5mm

rollout = tire size in milimeter x pi (3.1417) / spur x pinion

so 56.5mm (tire size) x 3.1417 (pi) devide bij 84t (spur) times 14 (pinion) = 29.58mm

And in sensord that went ok.

BTW if anyone knows a good setup for dual mode ( rollout and timing on a fairly big track) then i would appreciate it :-)

my experience in running large track is way better sensored (touring)

set ups is sensored mode and 5 boost, lipo 2s motor SP 4.5 ver2 and fan for ESC, temps Esc 3-4 led and motor 65
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:01 PM   #3716
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OK, Tekin!!

With ROAR's recent announcement of going strictly to 1c lipo for 1/12th and World GT, you need to get the 1c software up and running. Any news when we can start to use our 1c lipos with a Tekin RS Pro?
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:08 PM   #3717
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I believe the announcement wasn't that the classes would be strictly 1c LiPo but that 1c LiPo is now legal but will run in a seperate class from 4c NiMh.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:27 PM   #3718
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OK, Tekin!!

With ROAR's recent announcement of going strictly to 1c lipo for 1/12th and World GT, you need to get the 1c software up and running. Any news when we can start to use our 1c lipos with a Tekin RS Pro?
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:02 PM   #3719
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I believe the announcement wasn't that the classes would be strictly 1c LiPo but that 1c LiPo is now legal but will run in a seperate class from 4c NiMh.
I know but how long do you think the promoters are going to have nimh classes and lipo classes? There are already too many classes so this pretty much puts the final nail in the round cells. Not very happy about it but... such is progress. The IIC already announced that all of the 1/12th and World GT classes will be 1C lipo only. No nimh!! Now all of the T bar manufactures will have to create new chassis or design new link cars. But this is off topic.

Glad to hear that Tekin will have the 1c lipo software available soon.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:18 PM   #3720
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Yeah it probably does for big race events...but I think round cells will still be around at the local level awhile.
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