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Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored

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Old 05-07-2009, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RKP3.3 View Post
Hey, I just purchased a new RS speed control and need to reverse my throttle, which is fine but when I power it off and power it back up I have to reverse the thottle back to standard then back to reverse. Is this normal? Also when on it has a high pitch whine to it? I'm using a DX3s for a radio with a SR 300 reciever. Any ideas or is this just normal

Kelly
Usually you have to reverse the throttle with Futaba radios -- haven't heard much about that with Spektrum. Once you switch it you shouldn't have to do it again like you are.

It should also be stone silent when just sitting there. I would guess that you have your neutral width set really narrow or your throttle out of trim. If there's a little bit of throttle signal going through it'll make a little whine like that.

If you open up your neutral width a bit and check your throttle trim I would wager both your problems will go away.
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RKP3.3 View Post
Hey, I just purchased a new RS speed control and need to reverse my throttle, which is fine but when I power it off and power it back up I have to reverse the thottle back to standard then back to reverse. Is this normal? Also when on it has a high pitch whine to it? I'm using a DX3s for a radio with a SR 300 reciever. Any ideas or is this just normal

Kelly
Kelly,

I'm not very familiar with the DX3S, but I have a DX3R which I think is somewhat similar. On my DX3R the throttle was a little jumpy when I first got it. THere was a menu in the DX3R where you could recalibrate the wheel and trigger,it was called "reset" and if the DX3S has a similar function you might want to look in the manual and go through the process. IT calmed my trigger down with the DX3R.

If the throttle output from the transmitter is a little jumpy, the RS may not see a neutral signal when you power it up. That may be why you need to keep reversing and re-reversing the throttle channel to get it to initialize.

A wider neutral width can help, but if you DO have a jumpy throttle output, the best thing to do is calm that down first.

That high pitched whine you're hearing when it's powered on is the speed control applying a tiny bit of power to the motor, enough to make the sound, but not enough to make it spin. That is not a normal condition. When the trigger is in neutral, the RS and motor should be silent.
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:22 PM
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How much timing boost would you recommend on a SpeedPassion 3.5T v2.0 motor with timing option set to 2.
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by nelarozi View Post
How much timing boost would you recommend on a SpeedPassion 3.5T v2.0 motor with timing option set to 2.
For mod motors it is not suggested to use sensored only and boost. For a 3.5 set it in dual (hybrid) mode and put the timing slider at 30 or 40.
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
For mod motors it is not suggested to use sensored only and boost. For a 3.5 set it in dual (hybrid) mode and put the timing slider at 30 or 40.
As i understand the sensored motor workes better if it is in sensored mode only. Many guys wrote that they lack speed on the straight when using the dual mode.

I was thinking i could use the nr. 2 timing option and about 5-10 boost (out of 30)
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
For mod motors it is not suggested to use sensored only and boost. For a 3.5 set it in dual (hybrid) mode and put the timing slider at 30 or 40.
uhm.. isn't 30 the max?
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:00 PM
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When the RS is in dual mode the "timing advance" setting is a percentage value 0% to 100% (100% = 30 degrees), in sensored only the "timing advance" option changes to "timing boost" which you then set in actual degrees of timing between 0 and 30.
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Skitee View Post
When the RS is in dual mode the "timing advance" setting is a percentage value 0% to 100% (100% = 30 degrees), in sensored only the "timing advance" option changes to "timing boost" which you then set in actual degrees of timing between 0 and 30.
ahh yes.. im still learning all the features. thanks for the clarification.
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
ahh yes.. im still learning all the features. thanks for the clarification.
the timing advance can get a little confusing when you first look at it until you now what it is,just remember to divide the number by 3.33 and you get your timing deg.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by nelarozi View Post
As i understand the sensored motor workes better if it is in sensored mode only. Many guys wrote that they lack speed on the straight when using the dual mode.

I was thinking i could use the nr. 2 timing option and about 5-10 boost (out of 30)
I have never heard of anyone lacking speed when using dual mode and a "mod" motor. It is definitely recommended to use sensored only and boost with higher turn "spec" motors like a 10.5, 13.5, or 17.5. If 30-40 on dual mode isn't fast enough and your temps are in check you can keep cranking up the timing.
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Old 05-07-2009, 06:42 PM
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Listen to the group, they're all right.

IN dual mode max timing is 30 degrees. When dual mode is selected the bar will read "Timing Advance."

When in sensored only mode the timing is what is set in the motor AND what is set in the speedo boost. When sensored only mode is selected the timing bar will read "Timing Boost."

For a 3.5 run dual mode and timing at 40-60 to start. There should not be a lack of speed in mod.
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Old 05-07-2009, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
I have never heard of anyone lacking speed when using dual mode and a "mod" motor. It is definitely recommended to use sensored only and boost with higher turn "spec" motors like a 10.5, 13.5, or 17.5. If 30-40 on dual mode isn't fast enough and your temps are in check you can keep cranking up the timing.
I have to agree i've been playing with the timing slide since i still have a novak 6.5 in my buggy and found less than 60 on the timing it lost a tone of overall power but up near 70 has a tone of bottom with lots of top and its geared low but still pulls hard down straight like a 5.5
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:27 AM
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i run my pro10 with a 4.5t novak and i tinkerd with the dual mode a lot. I had a laptop on the track. With every setting i found it was lacking speed on the strait when it was going over on sensorless. Beginning was wicked fast when it was sensord but once in sensorless there really wasn't any speed left. I began timing very low and had timing till 80 or 90. Tempetures were ok. After i put it even higher it began to stutter in sensorless mode.

Could be that i didn't find the sweet spot yet but after 3 days of trying out on the circuit i put it on sensord and now it is working how it should be. A little less rollout then i normaly run and i have speed from the start and it keeps going building up speed till the end. So probably i still have to test the dual mode a lot to find the right spot but for now i will just run it in sensord during the races. It really is much simpler and less frustration :-).

I run now rollout of around 29.5mm on quite big 1/8 tracks with timing on 9. Any higher timing and the motor will stutter like mad. I think the novak motors have a standard timing of 12.

I did find that the esc ran a lot hotter in sensord mode then in dual mode. Probably the esc needs to do a lot more work? A fan is really needed if you don't want to get backed electronics.

Last edited by 2wdrive; 05-08-2009 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
10v caps will work as long as you stick to 2s. The RS is rated up to 3s so it comes with the appropriate cap.
i only run 2s lipo so that will work ok then thanks!!!
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:44 AM
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Will there be any future plans to develop and release hotwire software for windows 7?

I only ask as i'm looking at getting a new laptop in a few months, and windows 7 is due out in the latter part of 2009 (And we all know how slow Vista is )....
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