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Old 04-21-2009, 10:43 AM   #3421
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i see you have a 10v cap. Should that not be 16v? I have no idea but the standard cap was 16v330. I installed a 16v2200 cap after mine exploded with a 4.5t brushless

yeah you are right about that, actually i used this because i couldn't find a 16v one, actually the battery is maximum 7.4 v, maximum it can get is around 8.2 v, it should be fine i think. but i already ordered tekin caps, i am thinking about using dual cap, 16v330mf x2
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:28 AM   #3422
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Randy I ran into a problem this weekend. This is with the RS/1s lipo in my 1/12 car. When I hit the entrance to a tight corner with a bumper board attached the car would bounce backward and then when I'd pull the trigger the car would go in reverse. Once monentium was stopped the car would then go forward, what would cause this??. Should I set the esc to sensored only mode instead of dual? I have the reverse set to off and the motor set to forward only

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Old 04-21-2009, 12:08 PM   #3423
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Sounds like maybe your motor timing is way way too far advanced?
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Old 04-21-2009, 01:34 PM   #3424
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Randy I ran into a problem this weekend. This is with the RS/1s lipo in my 1/12 car. When I hit the entrance to a tight corner with a bumper board attached the car would bounce backward and then when I'd pull the trigger the car would go in reverse. Once monentium was stopped the car would then go forward, what would cause this??. Should I set the esc to sensored only mode instead of dual? I have the reverse set to off and the motor set to forward only

Thanks
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For me sensored only is a must in 12th for single cell. You can adjust the timing to suit the track. Normally on a short track I ran full boost and zero motor timing. For bigger tracks turn the boost down some and add some motor timing. Motor timing will rev out more on the straight but have a little less punch.
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Old 04-21-2009, 03:06 PM   #3425
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If the RS shows 1,2 and 6,7 you should double check all of your wiring. I've seen a hung brush in a motor show this once also.

Have you hooked it to a different motor?

If the car went in reverse I'd say you were in dual mode, not sensored only. Use the sensor checker and make sure that all sensors are good. If your harness came out, you have a bad sensor, etc it will automatically go into Dual mode. If you're running a 0 motor timing and full boost setup you might not notice the difference especially if you have your Timing Advance set at 100.
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Old 04-21-2009, 04:53 PM   #3426
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Who knows. I keep gearing shorter and shorter and it keeps getting faster and faster.

I have been finding similar results, but again it depends on the track....My cars are usually some of the quickest laps with the Tekin RS and a Redline 17.5...Often faster than most 13.5's...
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:01 PM   #3427
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drag

What settings are you using on your 17.5?
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:14 PM   #3428
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drag

What settings are you using on your 17.5?
Depends on the track, but if I have to do a lot of off the corner accel where I have to lift all the way out of it to get it in, I use the 0* motor timing, and 30* boost. My favorite indoor clay track though I like 17* boost and 14* motor timing....I qualified #2 this past weekend, but pushed a little too hard in the main, and ended 5th in the A.....Mains went all the way down to F with 6 cars per main. My best laps were well into the 3.9s range, and that beats out many of the 13.5 guys for lap times. Car is a rocket.

I have been using scales and cross weights to set-up the car, and i think my set-ups are going to get a lot better track to track, and my consistency should really improve on car set-up.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:40 PM   #3429
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
If the RS shows 1,2 and 6,7 you should double check all of your wiring. I've seen a hung brush in a motor show this once also.

Have you hooked it to a different motor?

If the car went in reverse I'd say you were in dual mode, not sensored only. Use the sensor checker and make sure that all sensors are good. If your harness came out, you have a bad sensor, etc it will automatically go into Dual mode. If you're running a 0 motor timing and full boost setup you might not notice the difference especially if you have your Timing Advance set at 100.
I cannot say about the lights as its on the track when this happens, but the only lights that are on when I power up is the fourth one and then rotates back and forth between the first and fourth. Which is normal per the instructions. I have the motor at full timing, I'll have to check on the boost. The esc is set in dual mode per your email settings, so I'll reset to sensored only and see if that solves the issue. And the motor is fine I've used it with a gtb with no issues.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:57 PM   #3430
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Thanks drag.. gives me a good starting point for my 17.5 this summer
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:04 PM   #3431
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so in general for large tracks would you take out some boost and add some motor timing to get some more top end? is that safe to say?
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Old 04-21-2009, 07:29 PM   #3432
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so in general for large tracks would you take out some boost and add some motor timing to get some more top end? is that safe to say?

Yes. In dirt oval, the motors like to stay spooled up. The trick is to get the chassis set-up to allow you to run thru the corners and carry the speed.
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:16 PM   #3433
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Thanks to all that was helping me out,i was doing everything right but it was the computer it works when it wants to so i'm using a friends laptop and i'm good to go know.

one ? is timing value is related to how much in deg
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:08 PM   #3434
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Thanks to all that was helping me out,i was doing everything right but it was the computer it works when it wants to so i'm using a friends laptop and i'm good to go know.

one ? is timing value is related to how much in deg
I believe it is about 3.25-3.5 percent is one degree, or 100% should be about 30 degrees
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:25 PM   #3435
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I believe it is about 3.25-3.5 percent is one degree, or 100% should be about 30 degrees
cool i was in the right area of thinking
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