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Old 03-13-2009, 09:49 AM   #2836
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Can lightweight oil be used in the motor bearings or is it best to stick with the grease that is in them?
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:34 PM   #2837
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Default BIG THANKS..

...I just wanted to let everyone know about the outstanding customer service i received on my Tekin 17.5. I ended up overheating (read: BOILING) my motor during a heat race because of my own lack of understanding how timing works. Anyway, it melted all the solder out and who knows what else! I sent it in to Tekin explaining what I did and just to fix it and i'll pay for it.

I was pleasantly surprised to get the motor back, repaired, good as new, at NO CHARGE!

Thanks again for adding "value" to your products.

-Steve
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Old 03-13-2009, 06:35 PM   #2838
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Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
...I just wanted to let everyone know about the outstanding customer service i received on my Tekin 17.5. I ended up overheating (read: BOILING) my motor during a heat race because of my own lack of understanding how timing works.
Since you already did the hard part and admitted it could you explain exactly what you did? I think others would benefit. I assume you have 189 and cranked both motor and ESC timing...
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:31 PM   #2839
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The capacitor specs are: 16V 330uF
The tekin caps are meant to be high quality, if you do go looking for one i believe you should be asking for a low ESR(?) one.
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:10 PM   #2840
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I burned 3 motors, because of not understanding timing. After the 1st motor was burned, I thought, just gear down on the second one, and that one burned...then I put in a fixed endbell SP motor, and that went also... Make sure to set your timing at 0 if you want to use boost control on the 189 software. The RS is awesome, but better know what you are doing... Lesson learned...(3 motors later)
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:09 PM   #2841
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Since you already did the hard part and admitted it could you explain exactly what you did? I think others would benefit. I assume you have 189 and cranked both motor and ESC timing...

Simple..
I cranked the timing up on the endbell and maxed out the boost function. I think in ended up being about 70 deg. !!!!!!!!!

Set the motor timing to '0', then you can crank up the boost.

-Steve
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Old 03-14-2009, 02:13 PM   #2842
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Simple..
I cranked the timing up on the endbell and maxed out the boost function. I think in ended up being about 70 deg. !!!!!!!!!

Set the motor timing to '0', then you can crank up the boost.

-Steve
We did give you the tools to get into trouble. That is why we did not post the timing boost software on the web. We make people come ask so we can make sure they have some guidelines to start with. We also let our team drivers hand it out with hopes that setup suggestions come with it.

30 deg total between the motor and the boost is a good starting area. More timing in the motor feels a little different than more timing in the boost. Motor timing is there from the first motor rotation and lots of timing can get rough and snappy on the bottom, boost is added as the motor spools. In general you can get away with more total timing if all or most is in the boost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth View Post
...I just wanted to let everyone know about the outstanding customer service i received on my Tekin 17.5. I ended up overheating (read: BOILING) my motor during a heat race because of my own lack of understanding how timing works. Anyway, it melted all the solder out and who knows what else! I sent it in to Tekin explaining what I did and just to fix it and i'll pay for it.

I was pleasantly surprised to get the motor back, repaired, good as new, at NO CHARGE!

Thanks again for adding "value" to your products.

-Steve
Pretty impressive that our motors can have the solder melted out of them and when cleaned up and re-soldered they run good as new. We used very good materials and we have honestly seen 2 burnt windings and 1 blown rotor….. ever. This may be our demise at some point for doing it too well. We will change the color at some point so everyone needs a new one
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:20 PM   #2843
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Pretty impressive that our motors can have the solder melted out of them and when cleaned up and re-soldered they run good as new. We used very good materials and we have honestly seen 2 burnt windings and 1 blown rotorů.. ever. This may be our demise at some point for doing it too well. We will change the color at some point so everyone needs a new one
make em Lighter! need a bit on the weight reduction. don't know where to cut it though.

btw me and my brothers racing the CORRC Carpet Classic here in Denver CO.
many might know we have alot of mildly sponsored guys in our area. in 12th scale 17.5 my bro (rspro/duo) is on the pole position, I'm (rspro/orion) in second. i know there is a speed passion sponsored guy in out heat.
3/5 qualifiers i will post the ending result tomorrow after the mains

so great products always been a fan.
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:03 PM   #2844
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Originally Posted by TeamTekin View Post
We did give you the tools to get into trouble. That is why we did not post the timing boost software on the web. We make people come ask so we can make sure they have some guidelines to start with. We also let our team drivers hand it out with hopes that setup suggestions come with it.

30 deg total between the motor and the boost is a good starting area. More timing in the motor feels a little different than more timing in the boost. Motor timing is there from the first motor rotation and lots of timing can get rough and snappy on the bottom, boost is added as the motor spools. In general you can get away with more total timing if all or most is in the boost.



Pretty impressive that our motors can have the solder melted out of them and when cleaned up and re-soldered they run good as new. We used very good materials and we have honestly seen 2 burnt windings and 1 blown rotorů.. ever. This may be our demise at some point for doing it too well. We will change the color at some point so everyone needs a new one
I ran my rs pro and my motor went to 220 degrees and it still works good. The RS PRO is the best
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:08 PM   #2845
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I ran my rs pro and my motor went to 220 degrees and it still works good. The RS PRO is the best
You don't routinely do that, do you? I hope you changed something to get the temps down...
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:29 PM   #2846
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The LRP motor stops working bij 262,4
The GM by 244,4

Gm says that the best running temp for the motor with the best power is 176.

Now i kept the temp below the 158

What is the best?
I want to keep my motor for at least 1 year without any problems and still going faster than the others. What is the best running temp for a Tekin motor and is it good to use a motor cooler to keep the temps down?
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:36 PM   #2847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
The LRP motor stops working bij 262,4
The GM by 244,4

Gm says that the best running temp for the motor with the best power is 176.

Now i kept the temp below the 158

What is the best?
I want to keep my motor for at least 1 year without any problems and still going faster than the others. What is the best running temp for a Tekin motor and is it good to use a motor cooler to keep the temps down?
Personally, I gear to come off the track at about 165░F after a 6-minute race. A motor will pretty much last forever at those temps. I know racers that run to 185, but they also replace motors more often. You could probably add a tooth, but you're certainly safe where you are and can expect great reliability and longevity.
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:41 PM   #2848
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Questions??

Where do I get 189 firmware?
HotWire shows up 178 & 180 only.
Could smbd email it to me?
[email protected]_dot_com

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-15-2009, 11:55 AM   #2849
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hello every1... looking for some opinions/suggestions...

i've running rs pro with SP 10.5T for a couple of race meets now...

First I ran the RS pro with stock settings (180).. It stayed cool.

Then I tried the to put Timing to 50 (ie 15* advance) in hybrid mode. It was faster than before but still lacking to other setups on the track both in bottom and top end... Temperature was at max 125*F after 10min+ running and did not increase even after 18min of running...

If opt for the 189 software which I already have, but not used...what setup do you suggest I start with If I choose not change the FDR... currently 5.29 (rollout 37.4). I was using the same FDR in both previous cases..

That's question one



now two... I set the lipo cutoff to 6.5V... If this is reached, what happens? Does the ESC stop responding completely to throttle input, or does limit the current heavily... but allow you to bring the car 'home' ?


thanks!

g
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Old 03-15-2009, 01:26 PM   #2850
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Originally Posted by serpvect View Post
Where do I get 189 firmware?
HotWire shows up 178 & 180 only.
Could smbd email it to me?
[email protected]_dot_com

Thanks in advance.
send me your e-mail adres in a pm. i got the mail back because the mail adres isn't right.
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