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Old 03-06-2009, 04:23 PM   #2776
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Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
Randy,
On the set ups for RS & 17.5, I noticed that you are using the Throttle pro #3.
Would throttle #5 be better?
What are the differences besides more aggressive?
Thanks and God Bless
Profile 3 is linear throttle response. 2 is slightly less aggressive, 1 is the least aggressive. 4 and 5 are more aggressive than 3.

6 and 7 will be user customizable, but that feature is not yet implemented.
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Old 03-06-2009, 04:32 PM   #2777
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I didn't get a response to my eariler post from the setup issues right after. So I thought I would shoot it back up.

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Will there be custom timing curve profiles in the future? I am thinking something similar to the throttle curve profiles. As the RPM increases the timing is adjusted by the cruve. Convex, Concave and Linear timing progression profiles. This may be helpful in tuning a motor for the most efficient power at any RPM and account for how the power demands of a tight track vs. open track or a sedan vs. pan car.

In the lighter cars or more open tracks it may be helpful to have a more aggressive timing increase at the lower RPM and the total timing maxxed out before the car approaches top RPM.

On a tighter track or heavier car it may be helpful to have less than linear timing advancement for the lower RPM's but as RPM nears the upper RPM limit the timing is in full advanced. In both cases the max total timing would not be changed.
Then I thought
Does the throttle profiles affect the timing advancement or only just the throttle precentage?

If the profile only affect the throttle precentage, isn't that function already provided on most high end radios?
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Old 03-06-2009, 05:21 PM   #2778
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The throttle profiles are in essence expo.
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:38 AM   #2779
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Hi
What really is current limiter for? Do having higher values make the motor faster? Why is everyone using low values,isn't more current more speed?Also why after setting the 189 software with the hotwire and you go into the set up manually the settings are different to the hotwire settings.
thank you
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:05 AM   #2780
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The current limiter is exactly what the name implies... it limits the amount of current that the speed control will allow to the motor.

It doesn't really affect top speed, once the motor gets up to top speed the current is kind of low anyway. Current limiting has a bigger effect on acceleration... accelerating from a standing start or out of a slow corner is where the motor draws the most current.

Setting a low value for the current limiter can help with wheelspin off the line, making it easier to get launched in low traction situations. Some folke I know used to use cirrent limiting to get more runtime as well.

I think if you look cvarefully, you'll see that most on-road (especially carpet) racers are actually turning current limitinig off. For dirt racing, where traction can be an issue, current limiting is pretty useful.
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:10 AM   #2781
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I run TP 3 almost exclusiely because I like a linear throttle. TP 4 5 are more agressive throttle curves. Similiar to the exp on most radios.

The TP settings do not effect timing, currently.

Still: No apology was needed. It happens to the best of us!

The current limiter is just that. It limits the current getting to the motor on the bottom end. It doesn't effect the top speed at all. It's helpful when traction is down or your car wheelies all the time.

Okay: your setup looks like a good place to start. Gearing will depend on track size and layout and it's hard to judge it in a pic. Run for 3 minutes at race pace and see what's going on. If the motor temps are good and your pace is there leave it. IF you're down on speed and motor temps are cool, gear it up. If your motor temps are too hot and the car is still accelerating at the end of the straight, gear down.
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:23 AM   #2782
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thank you but my second question is when you change settings using the hotwire and after you go into manual mode why are the settings not corresponding with the hotwire settings
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
The current limiter is exactly what the name implies... it limits the amount of current that the speed control will allow to the motor.

It doesn't really affect top speed, once the motor gets up to top speed the current is kind of low anyway. Current limiting has a bigger effect on acceleration... accelerating from a standing start or out of a slow corner is where the motor draws the most current.

Setting a low value for the current limiter can help with wheelspin off the line, making it easier to get launched in low traction situations. Some folke I know used to use cirrent limiting to get more runtime as well.

I think if you look cvarefully, you'll see that most on-road (especially carpet) racers are actually turning current limitinig off. For dirt racing, where traction can be an issue, current limiting is pretty useful.
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:54 AM   #2783
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kyosho player,

Sorry I didn't answer that part... I guess I don't know what to say to that since I only use the hotwire to make adjustments, I've never looked at anything in manual mode.

If I had to guess, I'd say that maybe the new 1.89 firmware has changed the way things will look in manual mode, but no one has made that iformation availabgle... but I could be completely wrong on this. All I really know is that I've never tried to use manual mode adjustments myself.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:27 AM   #2784
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thank you TRIPPS.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:36 AM   #2785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Okay: your setup looks like a good place to start. Gearing will depend on track size and layout and it's hard to judge it in a pic. Run for 3 minutes at race pace and see what's going on. If the motor temps are good and your pace is there leave it. IF you're down on speed and motor temps are cool, gear it up. If your motor temps are too hot and the car is still accelerating at the end of the straight, gear down.
Thanks a lot,

CÚdric
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:50 AM   #2786
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Originally Posted by witz_dan View Post
Has anyone tried to put a redline in a crc gen x 12? I can't figure out how to get it in there. Novak brushless motors fit. they are slightly shorter and the sensor wire is on the side of the endbell as apposed to the redline where it is at the bottom.

Any help thanks

Dan
Dan,

Sorry, I should have responded to you sooner...

I'm running the GenX 12, right now there's a Trinity Duo 17.5 in there, but plenty of room for a Redline.

Are you running the original GenX pod, oir the newer Open brushless pod? I've got the newer brushless pod. Here's a snapshot:
Attached Thumbnails
Tekin RS ESC sensored-dsc00294.jpg   Tekin RS ESC sensored-dsc00295.jpg  
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:51 AM   #2787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witz_dan View Post
Has anyone tried to put a redline in a crc gen x 12? I can't figure out how to get it in there. Novak brushless motors fit. they are slightly shorter and the sensor wire is on the side of the endbell as apposed to the redline where it is at the bottom.

Any help thanks

Dan
Hi Dan

running redline in GenX 12 no issues do you have the later Genx with the open pod or the earlier one, either way you should not have a problem.

If it is realy tight you could loosen to pod plate off and the motor should slip in fine.

If you have not upgraded to the brushless pod would higly recomend this.

Cheers

Alan
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:55 AM   #2788
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As Tripps has said no issues with the new pod , the old pod will still accept the motor just will be a little tight.
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:03 PM   #2789
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Hello Guys, just got the RS Pro Esc up and running. All good there. now we just installed Hotwire seems to be all good there.have not used it yet. Now ready to install the 1.89 that Randy has sent us. do you have to unstall 1.80 first then do the new version. Please need some input. also running TC outdoors,rubber rire, big flowing track with LRP 4.5T geared 9.0 flat would like a good starting point with Esc settings,Thanks Ron H,
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:47 PM   #2790
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Ron,

Yes, you do need to uninstall your current Hotwire software before you install the update.

If you're running Windows XP, go into Control Panel, then "Add/Remove Programs", then uninstall the Hotwire software. Reboot. THen install the new version from the zip file (double click the zip filke, then double click the "setup.exe" in there.

If you're running Vista, it's a bit more complicated. or8ital has written up the procedure, it's right HERE

Once you have the new version 2.9 Hotwire software installed (1.89 is the version number of the latest RS firmware which comes with Hotwire 2.9) YOu'll want to attach the Hotweire to your PC, but before you pluc the RS into the hotwire, fire up the hotwire software. On the initial screen that comes up, hit the "help" button. If you see Hotwire version 2.9 come up, you're good to go. Attach your RS, and then update it to 1.89
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