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Old 03-01-2009, 03:12 PM   #2671
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You can't download the 189 update yet but if you send me you e-mail in a pm i will send it to you.
PM sent.

But 189 is public right ...? I'm kind new to the hobbie, so I just want the latest public release.
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:50 PM   #2672
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PM sent.

But 189 is public right ...? I'm kind new to the hobbie, so I just want the latest public release.

Just be sure you gear down with 189 full boost. I used to run 3.60-3.80 and now run 4.0-4.20 with 189 to take advantage of the extra boost.....
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:58 PM   #2673
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Hello, My son runs outdoors rubber tire TC open mod. 4.5LRP X12 big open track, can someone help with good setup for this RS Pro speed control for this motor. Stock settings no HOTWIRE yet. Any HELP. Thanks Ron H,
Hello, All these guys giving info on the RS Pro and no one has any input on this quote from the other day.Thanks Ron H,
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:20 PM   #2674
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Ron,

Without the hotwire your adjustabilty will be limited. However for the 4.5 try this setup:

NW 2 led's
BS 6 led
TP 3
PC 6 led

There is some new software since the RS release. If you have a chance to meet up with a team driver or purchase a Hotwire get the new software.

Anyone looking for the 189 software must email me your locaiton of where you live or race.
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:07 PM   #2675
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Questions?? RS Pro + 5.5 heat tuning help

I just got an RS Pro and Redline 5.5 for my 4wd buggy. I'm trying to tone down the 5.5 to make it more driveable for a particular track.

I'm running the motor with 0 physical timing, and on the RS Pro I am using sensored mode with 0 power boost and current limit set to 85.

The motor is toned down nicely and is very driveable, but the ESC seems to get a little hot - 160 - 170 after about 5-7 minutes. The motor is temping at 140 - 150 for the same timeframe. Gearing on the motor is 11.05. (84 / 19)

Anything setting I can adjust that won't generate as much heat in the ESC?

Would adding physical timing on the motor change the heat issue on the ESC? (I'm going to try this at practice on Tuesday)

Does using a current limit cause more heat in the ESC?

Would using "dual mode" be gentler on the ESC?

Using a 7.5 or 8.5 is better suited to this track, but I've got the 5.5 at the moment and that is what I am working with.

Any info is appreciated.
thx
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:29 PM   #2676
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.

Last edited by LOSI123; 03-02-2009 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:01 AM   #2677
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Hi,

Just upgraded the ESC to 189. Really easy to perform. Good point.
I'm mounting this ESC with a 6.5T Brushless Tekin motor (Tekin addict!).

I plan to go with a 21T pinion on my spur gear 48 / 84 that will give me a FDR of 6.80 (but still hesitating to put a 19T pinion that will give me a FDR of 7.52). 2S 3800 35C will power up this baby.

I will run rubber tyres on asphalt (and maybe foam for much grip) on a Xray T2 009. I'll drive that with a Spektrum DX3S with a temperature sensor on the motor (and also RPM sensor but that's tricky to install!)

Now let's talk about the Tekin configuration I was thinking of:
- Sensored : not ticked
- Dual Mode : ticked

I heard that dual mode was the way to go. I will run a sensored motor; just wondering if sensored only is no a better choice or give me better performance.

Other settings
- Drag Brake : Off
- Reverse speed : 100
- Brake strength : 100
- Neutral width : 56
- Motor type : BL-F/RV - FWD/BRK/IMMED REVERSE
- Throttle Profile : 3 - Linear
- Voltage cut-off : 2 - 2S Lipo 6V
- Push control : Off
- Timing Advance : 78
- Current Limit : Off

Is it good values to start with ? what do I have to adjust at the track ?

Thanks a lot, help is much appreciated.

CÚdric
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:06 AM   #2678
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Originally Posted by okayplayer View Post
Hi,

Just upgraded the ESC to 189. Really easy to perform. Good point.
I'm mounting this ESC with a 6.5T Brushless Tekin motor (Tekin addict!).

I plan to go with a 21T pinion on my spur gear 48 / 84 that will give me a FDR of 6.80 (but still hesitating to put a 19T pinion that will give me a FDR of 7.52). 2S 3800 35C will power up this baby.

I will run rubber tyres on asphalt (and maybe foam for much grip) on a Xray T2 009. I'll drive that with a Spektrum DX3S with a temperature sensor on the motor (and also RPM sensor but that's tricky to install!)

Now let's talk about the Tekin configuration I was thinking of:
- Sensored : not ticked
- Dual Mode : ticked

I heard that dual mode was the way to go. I will run a sensored motor; just wondering if sensored only is no a better choice or give me better performance.

Other settings
- Drag Brake : Off
- Reverse speed : 100
- Brake strength : 100
- Neutral width : 56
- Motor type : BL-F/RV - FWD/BRK/IMMED REVERSE
- Throttle Profile : 3 - Linear
- Voltage cut-off : 2 - 2S Lipo 6V
- Push control : Off
- Timing Advance : 78
- Current Limit : Off

Is it good values to start with ? what do I have to adjust at the track ?

Thanks a lot, help is much appreciated.

CÚdric
i use a gear ratio of 4.50, when a brushless motor is working it should get hot, my friends gets up to about 60-70 degrees cellsius but i go upto about 50- 55 using the tekin rs. dont forget there is a temputre cut of so you wont wreck you motor or esc, sensored is the way to go for tc cars.
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:09 AM   #2679
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I'm running on asphalt with rubbert tyres/foam tyres; 1/10 car and the recommended FDR for 6.5T motors by Novak is average FDR : 7

Should I go to a FDR of 4.5 / 5 ?

I don't really get it.

CÚdric
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:27 AM   #2680
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Originally Posted by afr0sch View Post
I just got an RS Pro and Redline 5.5 for my 4wd buggy. I'm trying to tone down the 5.5 to make it more driveable for a particular track.

I'm running the motor with 0 physical timing, and on the RS Pro I am using sensored mode with 0 power boost and current limit set to 85.

The motor is toned down nicely and is very driveable, but the ESC seems to get a little hot - 160 - 170 after about 5-7 minutes. The motor is temping at 140 - 150 for the same timeframe. Gearing on the motor is 11.05. (84 / 19)

Anything setting I can adjust that won't generate as much heat in the ESC?

Would adding physical timing on the motor change the heat issue on the ESC? (I'm going to try this at practice on Tuesday)

Does using a current limit cause more heat in the ESC?

Would using "dual mode" be gentler on the ESC?

Using a 7.5 or 8.5 is better suited to this track, but I've got the 5.5 at the moment and that is what I am working with.

Any info is appreciated.
thx
If you can get away with it, try dropping the current limiter down a bit less.

There isn't a lot of air circulation in a buggy which doesnt help with heat soak, so a fan would probably do more harm than good, but might also be worth a try.

That's all I can think of, but maybe others have a few shots to put out there for you
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:51 AM   #2681
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
You need to downgrade and then upgrade the esc software, eg put 180 on and then back to 189. I see this happen on occasion and after refreshing the software you should be good to go.
I havent upgraded to 189 yet, it's still in 180. I wish that i can change the setting through hotwire to check from inside what actually went wrong. Unfortunately for me, the hotwire wont talk to the ESC and the light is even dimmer.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:57 AM   #2682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afr0sch View Post
I just got an RS Pro and Redline 5.5 for my 4wd buggy. I'm trying to tone down the 5.5 to make it more driveable for a particular track.

I'm running the motor with 0 physical timing, and on the RS Pro I am using sensored mode with 0 power boost and current limit set to 85.

The motor is toned down nicely and is very driveable, but the ESC seems to get a little hot - 160 - 170 after about 5-7 minutes. The motor is temping at 140 - 150 for the same timeframe. Gearing on the motor is 11.05. (84 / 19)

Anything setting I can adjust that won't generate as much heat in the ESC?

Would adding physical timing on the motor change the heat issue on the ESC? (I'm going to try this at practice on Tuesday)

Does using a current limit cause more heat in the ESC?

Would using "dual mode" be gentler on the ESC?

Using a 7.5 or 8.5 is better suited to this track, but I've got the 5.5 at the moment and that is what I am working with.

Any info is appreciated.
thx
A fan blowing on the posts is probably all that you need. There isn't much air moving over the speedo in a dirt car so blowing a fan across the solder posts should fix the problem.
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:06 AM   #2683
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Originally Posted by azmio View Post
I havent upgraded to 189 yet, it's still in 180. I wish that i can change the setting through hotwire to check from inside what actually went wrong. Unfortunately for me, the hotwire wont talk to the ESC and the light is even dimmer.
I would try removing the hotwire software from your PC and trying again, ideally with Version 189 as a first option
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:16 AM   #2684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afr0sch View Post
I just got an RS Pro and Redline 5.5 for my 4wd buggy. I'm trying to tone down the 5.5 to make it more driveable for a particular track.

I'm running the motor with 0 physical timing, and on the RS Pro I am using sensored mode with 0 power boost and current limit set to 85.

The motor is toned down nicely and is very driveable, but the ESC seems to get a little hot - 160 - 170 after about 5-7 minutes. The motor is temping at 140 - 150 for the same timeframe. Gearing on the motor is 11.05. (84 / 19)

Anything setting I can adjust that won't generate as much heat in the ESC?

Would adding physical timing on the motor change the heat issue on the ESC? (I'm going to try this at practice on Tuesday)


Does using a current limit cause more heat in the ESC?

Would using "dual mode" be gentler on the ESC?

Using a 7.5 or 8.5 is better suited to this track, but I've got the 5.5 at the moment and that is what I am working with.

Any info is appreciated.
thx
Well now, that's the same setup I'm running in my 4wd buggy. The track I run at is also better suited to a 7.5t/6.5t . I bought the 5.5t redline knowing this, what can I say I'm greedy, I want more of everything speed, torque...
I found that running in dual mode is better for lower turn motors than sensored only. motor timing was left at the factory setting, Esc timing at the recommended 12* in dual mode pinion is a 16 tooth (I started low with the intention of going higher but speed is very good compared to the other cars down the straight, so I left it as is). I did add a 30x30mm fan to blow on the posts as the last motor & esc (GTB & vortex 6.5t) got very hot & thermaled on me, however that was w/o a fan.
The way it is now the motor & esc are under 50*C (I don't know the exact *F equivalent but I think it's 120 give or take a few deg).
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:48 AM   #2685
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If you're running mods like the 5.5 and 6.5 you shoud be in Dual mode.

This this setup:
Attached Thumbnails
Tekin RS ESC sensored-rs-mo-4wd.jpg  
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