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Old 02-24-2009, 08:44 PM   #2596
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can someone send me version 1.89 tonight ? need it for tomorrow.
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:22 AM   #2597
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can someone send me version 1.89 tonight ? need it for tomorrow.
Hi,

Is there an upgrade list on the 1.89 ? I mean the list of improvement implemented in it?

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Old 02-25-2009, 02:04 AM   #2598
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So this motor separation, is this a direct result of hard impacts, or a small batch issue on the redline motors? Luckily I don't have too many hard board smacks these days, but it would be nice to know the circumstances that I should inspect extra carefully after.
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:15 AM   #2599
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So, I collected my RS Pro combi and hotwire yesterday...

Just when you think the RS Pro is small... I then look at the hotwire! Damn, now I need a smaller reciever to match the ESC...

Can't wait to get these strapped in and rollin' !!!....

Sweet packaging too, the business!!!
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:32 AM   #2600
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The redline motor box makes an excellent super-cheap TC car stand for saucing tires too
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:56 AM   #2601
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The redline motor box makes an excellent super-cheap TC car stand for saucing tires too
There is some sticky stuff on the underneath of the Hotwire when it comes out the box too, which is useful for keeping it stuck to a laptop, table or where ever

We have more innovation than others think!
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Old 02-25-2009, 03:09 AM   #2602
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There is some sticky stuff on the underneath of the Hotwire when it comes out the box too, which is useful for keeping it stuck to a laptop, table or where ever

We have more innovation than others think!
LOL, unfortunately for me, when I installed my RS [at the track no less], the pit table was dirtier than it looked and the sticky stuff didn't work, but I definitely tried!
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:24 AM   #2603
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LOL, unfortunately for me, when I installed my RS [at the track no less], the pit table was dirtier than it looked and the sticky stuff didn't work, but I definitely tried!
Haha, finally some use for that motor spray, right there!

Also, a general tip:

I'm pretty sure it mentions it in the user guide, but make sure those solder tabs on the ESC and motor are uber clean before you solder.

It will just help things "stick" better when we are getting the solder and wires on to them. You may even want to file/scratch up the motor tabs a tiny bit (if you can), to help the solder "bite" onto it, although you probably shouldn't have to.

It's the kinda similar process to soldering cells/bars together...
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:43 AM   #2604
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I didn't have any problems soldering the motor leads, I did scuff them slightly and pre-tin them though. Then again, soldering is a big part of my job, and I have a selection of irons for my RC habit. I am considering re-doing the solder job on the posts though, some other guys have a lot cleaner install than I do, so I'm thinking I didn't use an iron with enough wattage. When I get home from work in 3 weeks or so I'll probably do that simply because it bothers me how ugly the posts turned out just thinking about it, lol.
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Old 02-25-2009, 06:45 AM   #2605
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I didn't have any problems soldering the motor leads, I did scuff them slightly and pre-tin them though. Then again, soldering is a big part of my job, and I have a selection of irons for my RC habit. I am considering re-doing the solder job on the posts though, some other guys have a lot cleaner install than I do, so I'm thinking I didn't use an iron with enough wattage. When I get home from work in 3 weeks or so I'll probably do that simply because it bothers me how ugly the posts turned out just thinking about it, lol.
Having as little exposed wire as possible is a plus too for neatness,(easily overlooked until someone points it out) but im sure you knew that already and will have it figured out quick.

I'd probably be looking about about 5-6mm max of bare wiring to get it soldered - Just enough to make it good on the tabs, but not excessive for it to look untidy.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:13 AM   #2606
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Oh yeah, the motor tabs are fine, I won't be messing with those unless I need to do a motor change for some reason.

My real ugly spot was the posts, not using a high enough wattage iron to get the wire in the groove and flowed to my satisfaction. Right now it kind of looks like a butt joint goobered together Functional, and worked just fine with no hint of joint heating to indicate that I was losing any power there, just looks horrible to me. But that's ok, if I didn't leave anything to do to my cars when I go to work, I'd be totally bored when I got home sitting around a week or so until the weekend races rolled around!

I'll be in hog heaven when I get home in 3 weeks, fix my ugly RS solder job, find some more speed now that my buddy seems to be a tick faster since I put my identical setup on his FK'05 just before having to leave town, break in 2 nitro engines for outdoor season [sedan and 1/8 buggy], and then start dialing in setups for nitro sedan and the FK outdoors once I get my carpet setup nailed for next winter. Oh yes, addiction irreversible
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:27 AM   #2607
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Sure sounds like you've got your work cut out there

Yeah, won't do it any harm to resolder, and with better looks you'll be feeling happier with it on the eye
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:40 AM   #2608
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Lol, that's the short list

Let alone how many bodies I have to airbrush for this season for myself and deals lined up from the end of last outdoor season.

But back on topic, I love my RS Pro, rushed solder job on my part aside. It helped put me solidly in the A-main on a 3 main day at the local track on my first outing wheeling my own car in 1/10 EP sedan

There were also quite a few guys coming over after the race to get some pointers on my hotwire setup, which was the single biggest change I made that day.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:14 AM   #2609
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Oh yeah, the motor tabs are fine, I won't be messing with those unless I need to do a motor change for some reason.

My real ugly spot was the posts, not using a high enough wattage iron to get the wire in the groove and flowed to my satisfaction. Right now it kind of looks like a butt joint goobered together Functional, and worked just fine with no hint of joint heating to indicate that I was losing any power there, just looks horrible to me. But that's ok, if I didn't leave anything to do to my cars when I go to work, I'd be totally bored when I got home sitting around a week or so until the weekend races rolled around!

I'll be in hog heaven when I get home in 3 weeks, fix my ugly RS solder job, find some more speed now that my buddy seems to be a tick faster since I put my identical setup on his FK'05 just before having to leave town, break in 2 nitro engines for outdoor season [sedan and 1/8 buggy], and then start dialing in setups for nitro sedan and the FK outdoors once I get my carpet setup nailed for next winter. Oh yes, addiction irreversible
.

Soldering maybe a job, and more of an art. Tinning the soldering post, and wire. It should take more then a second. 36 -45 watts iron is good enough. If seems to hot for you, use a hemostat as a heat sink, os a alligator clip on the ESC soldering post. Should make it easier for you.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:15 AM   #2610
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OK so after getting the software up and running on my Linux based laptop all I have to say is someone needs to make a Linux port of the hotwire software.

With that said what settings should I be using for 1/12th scale using a Trinity 13.5 Duo? And should I be running the 189 software? And if so where can i get it?

Thanks for the help.
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