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Old 02-11-2009, 05:27 AM   #2416
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Would you have it any other way!?
Randy i now that it only gets better every time i got an update so i can't wait till the new update is there.
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:10 AM   #2417
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how come i cant get my rs calibrated? ill hold the mode button for three sec. and leave the trans. at neutral until it beeps then ill hold it full throttle and wait for it to beep but nothing after several sec.?
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Bet you're using a futaba radio. Try setting the throttle direction into reverse.
Also your throttle Endpoints MUST be set at 100 both forward and brake.
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:14 AM   #2418
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Also your throttle Endpoints MUST be set at 100 both forward and brake.
yes and also try to bracke if notting beeps. as it works than you must reverse your throttle.
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:55 AM   #2419
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Best bet, take the powerbands out of the Trinity and put em in the Tekin. They fit right in. (sorry... old motocross joke, couldn't help myself)
The red powerbands give you the best response

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Old 02-11-2009, 10:19 AM   #2420
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Could anybody point me to an article or website that can explain motor timing?

Here's my situation. I have a Tekin RS speedo and Redline 17.5. I had been running it a 1/12 (4 cell car). The motor timing had been adjusted by a fellow tekin driver, so I did not know, nor did I mess with it. I went ahead and adjusted the timing via the boost mode in the software. Usually I had it cranked up and geared accordingly with no heat issues.

Fast forward- I put all my electronics into a 1/10 WGT pan car running 7.4 lipo. I didn't mess with anything except gearing. Made a few runs, temp was good, so i cranked up the boost (software). I ended up torching my 17.5 (off track at about 225 deg-F). Found out later that the combination of motor timing and boost timing was way too much.

So to be more specific with the question: I assumed that I could crank up the timing and then gear accordingly, and it should give me the most power right? Evidently that's not how it works. I'm learning that there is a fine line with this timing stuff, therefore I need to find a write up somewhere on exactly how to use motor/software timing.

Thanks again for any help.

Steve
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:24 AM   #2421
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SPC: Flip your throttle to reverse. I always recomend the epa's be set equal to each other ie, 140 and 140 or 100 and 100.


Steve, you found out the hard way. Sorry to hear that. Timing has sweet spots for each combination. For WGT a lot of our team guys were running 0 motor timing and full boost at the birds. This setup renders 30 degrees of timing total. Not a bad place to be with a 17.5.

You don't usually want to be over 40 degrees EVER between motor timing and boost. This is where you will see too much heat and no performance gain at all.

Try the above "birds" setup. I'm sure you will like it.
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:43 AM   #2422
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
SPC: Flip your throttle to reverse. I always recomend the epa's be set equal to each other ie, 140 and 140 or 100 and 100.


Steve, you found out the hard way. Sorry to hear that. Timing has sweet spots for each combination. For WGT a lot of our team guys were running 0 motor timing and full boost at the birds. This setup renders 30 degrees of timing total. Not a bad place to be with a 17.5.

You don't usually want to be over 40 degrees EVER between motor timing and boost. This is where you will see too much heat and no performance gain at all.

Try the above "birds" setup. I'm sure you will like it.
Randy were they running 13.5 in the gt class at birds so is what im asking would you run the same settings for 13.5 thanks
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:55 AM   #2423
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When I got home from the birds I tried that same setup on my 13.5 and it has worked very well
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:01 AM   #2424
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When I got home from the birds I tried that same setup on my 13.5 and it has worked very well
ok are you running it in a gt car or 12th scale thanks
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:02 AM   #2425
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Could anybody point me to an article or website that can explain motor timing?

Here's my situation. I have a Tekin RS speedo and Redline 17.5. I had been running it a 1/12 (4 cell car). The motor timing had been adjusted by a fellow tekin driver, so I did not know, nor did I mess with it. I went ahead and adjusted the timing via the boost mode in the software. Usually I had it cranked up and geared accordingly with no heat issues.

Fast forward- I put all my electronics into a 1/10 WGT pan car running 7.4 lipo. I didn't mess with anything except gearing. Made a few runs, temp was good, so i cranked up the boost (software). I ended up torching my 17.5 (off track at about 225 deg-F). Found out later that the combination of motor timing and boost timing was way too much.

So to be more specific with the question: I assumed that I could crank up the timing and then gear accordingly, and it should give me the most power right? Evidently that's not how it works. I'm learning that there is a fine line with this timing stuff, therefore I need to find a write up somewhere on exactly how to use motor/software timing.

Thanks again for any help.

Steve
Every one's still learning about what the different timing settings do so there's no real place to find a good explanation yet.

I am finding that the voltage that you're running has a big effect on the timing needed. You can't normally use the same settings for different voltage packs with the same motor. Less voltage seems to like more timing and more voltage seems to like less timing.

I run full motor timing and full boost with single cell LiPo and you just can't do that with 4 cell or 2 cell LiPo.
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:49 AM   #2426
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I run full motor timing and full boost with single cell LiPo and you just can't do that with 4 cell or 2 cell LiPo.
That should NOT be good. That is 50deg at least of outside timing.... add the timing built into the construction and you are way over 60deg total. 60deg is a physical limit because we commutate every 60deg in a 2 pole 3 slot motor. You are no longer just advanced timing, you are completely in the wrong phase and no load currents are off the chart.

The rule of 30 to 40 max total timing, boost plus motor timing, is still valid.

We are doing a lot of 1S testing on our track right now. Actually a kick to race our 2S 17.5 setups in TC with a 1S and not other changes except adding a receiver pack. Dog slow and tight wheel to wheel racing that makes you roll the corners smoothly. A real beginner stock speed. I will check this extreme setup, but working or not I doubt it is the best or a good idea. However I bet the no load wheel speed in the pits is screamin... ala spx. I am so curious now I guess I head to the scope and take a look.
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:08 PM   #2427
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Was wondering what a good profile for 13.5 in my Tc5r? currently have a 66 tooth spur on it right now and i think a 34 tooth pinion. Will be racing on asphalt this summer. track size is 100X75 i think not for sure>
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:03 PM   #2428
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Yodace,

Try the 0 motor timing full boost. Find the right gearing by either asking a few locals or testing and checking motor temps.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:38 PM   #2429
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ok are you running it in a gt car or 12th scale thanks
1/12th
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:53 PM   #2430
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1/12th
ok thanks im going to run the 13.5 in my gt car that is why i asked
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