Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Hello Everyone. Im having issues on my sons losi 22 bugy and my associated sc10. Im running a Teking RsPro and son a RS. Buggy has a 17.5 and im running a 7.5 motor. Both Tekins are running on the latest version software.
Problem is... when i try to adjust the slipper clutch Im getting cogging from the motor... like a stutering sound. Im holding down both tires, tighting the nut until I get a lift on the fronts. It goes from a slipping sound to eventually a cogging sound and no lift.
I replaced my sensor wire, motor and slipper pads and same thing. Only conclusion i can think of is our ESC. Buggy and SC run great, they only make that cogging sound when adjust the clutch.
Im not very familiar with how to setup the Tekin with the hotwire. Ive pretty much just set it up with defaults and as for timing I have it down to minimum. Which throttle profile should I run? Maybe its a setup im running thats causing the problem?
Problem is... when i try to adjust the slipper clutch Im getting cogging from the motor... like a stutering sound. Im holding down both tires, tighting the nut until I get a lift on the fronts. It goes from a slipping sound to eventually a cogging sound and no lift.
I replaced my sensor wire, motor and slipper pads and same thing. Only conclusion i can think of is our ESC. Buggy and SC run great, they only make that cogging sound when adjust the clutch.
Im not very familiar with how to setup the Tekin with the hotwire. Ive pretty much just set it up with defaults and as for timing I have it down to minimum. Which throttle profile should I run? Maybe its a setup im running thats causing the problem?
Are you running a lot of endbell timing?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Hello Everyone. Im having issues on my sons losi 22 bugy and my associated sc10. Im running a Teking RsPro and son a RS. Buggy has a 17.5 and im running a 7.5 motor. Both Tekins are running on the latest version software.
Problem is... when i try to adjust the slipper clutch Im getting cogging from the motor... like a stutering sound. Im holding down both tires, tighting the nut until I get a lift on the fronts. It goes from a slipping sound to eventually a cogging sound and no lift.
I replaced my sensor wire, motor and slipper pads and same thing. Only conclusion i can think of is our ESC. Buggy and SC run great, they only make that cogging sound when adjust the clutch.
Im not very familiar with how to setup the Tekin with the hotwire. Ive pretty much just set it up with defaults and as for timing I have it down to minimum. Which throttle profile should I run? Maybe its a setup im running thats causing the problem?
Problem is... when i try to adjust the slipper clutch Im getting cogging from the motor... like a stutering sound. Im holding down both tires, tighting the nut until I get a lift on the fronts. It goes from a slipping sound to eventually a cogging sound and no lift.
I replaced my sensor wire, motor and slipper pads and same thing. Only conclusion i can think of is our ESC. Buggy and SC run great, they only make that cogging sound when adjust the clutch.
Im not very familiar with how to setup the Tekin with the hotwire. Ive pretty much just set it up with defaults and as for timing I have it down to minimum. Which throttle profile should I run? Maybe its a setup im running thats causing the problem?
The Tekin website has a nice Hotwire page that explains all of the settings in detail.
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire_RS.html
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Under the setup tab in the HotWire program make sure that the check box for "sensored" is checked to be sure that you are running in "sensored" mode. If not, the motor may cog at low RPM. "Dual" mode is supposed to provide motor sensing until a certain RPM is reached and then switch to sensorless. I think the Tekin speedos are set to "Dual" by default. "Sensored" would be better.
The Tekin website has a nice Hotwire page that explains all of the settings in detail.
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire_RS.html
The Tekin website has a nice Hotwire page that explains all of the settings in detail.
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire_RS.html
@mysupratoy94 There's answers to this in the RS offroad thread
But the guys are right...you're basically "banging" the sensors while it's attempting to go into sensorless drive. Swapping over to sensored mode will correct the issue.
But the guys are right...you're basically "banging" the sensors while it's attempting to go into sensorless drive. Swapping over to sensored mode will correct the issue.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Sorry guys, I did a search for Tekin Rs and this thread came up. Thought it would be the right spot for Tekin questions. Ill check that thread out though. I have received some great tips here so im going to try all those recomendations when I get home. Thanks
Tech Rookie
Shattered rotor
Hi Guys. Just after some advice. I have run off-road electric for a few years now but have started to do a bit of on-road as the club has both types of track. Anyway I just got myself a redline 4.5t to run in my Serpent 411 with a RS pro, as the 17.5 class has died and everyone is now running Modified. It was so fast, i couldnt believe it! Anyway i only ran 4 races before I had some pinion/spur drama's and ended up destroying the spur gear when the pinion loosened and moved on the shaft. I got a new spur and have just fitted it but found the motor wouldnt turn and felt really weird, so I took the motor out and ive found the rotor has shattered inside the stator! The motor was geared 7.4:1 and I think it was running about 40deg boost with turbo 13 and the newest software, motor timing was 12deg. Temps had been only about 40-50C (110-130F) after a run. The track is quite long as it was built for 1/8 nitro. Any Ideas why this may have happened? Did it rev too high or was the rotor maybe a dodgy part? Also does anyone know if i can replace the rotor with one out of a 17.5 redline? I know the stock motor has a 12.5mm rotor and the 4.5t a 13mm, will it still work? and should i do this given what happened to the other rotor?
cheers
cheers
Hi Guys. Just after some advice. I have run off-road electric for a few years now but have started to do a bit of on-road as the club has both types of track. Anyway I just got myself a redline 4.5t to run in my Serpent 411 with a RS pro, as the 17.5 class has died and everyone is now running Modified. It was so fast, i couldnt believe it! Anyway i only ran 4 races before I had some pinion/spur drama's and ended up destroying the spur gear when the pinion loosened and moved on the shaft. I got a new spur and have just fitted it but found the motor wouldnt turn and felt really weird, so I took the motor out and ive found the rotor has shattered inside the stator! The motor was geared 7.4:1 and I think it was running about 40deg boost with turbo 13 and the newest software, motor timing was 12deg. Temps had been only about 40-50C (110-130F) after a run. The track is quite long as it was built for 1/8 nitro. Any Ideas why this may have happened? Did it rev too high or was the rotor maybe a dodgy part? Also does anyone know if i can replace the rotor with one out of a 17.5 redline? I know the stock motor has a 12.5mm rotor and the 4.5t a 13mm, will it still work? and should i do this given what happened to the other rotor?
cheers
cheers
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Hi Guys. Just after some advice. I have run off-road electric for a few years now but have started to do a bit of on-road as the club has both types of track. Anyway I just got myself a redline 4.5t to run in my Serpent 411 with a RS pro, as the 17.5 class has died and everyone is now running Modified. It was so fast, i couldnt believe it! Anyway i only ran 4 races before I had some pinion/spur drama's and ended up destroying the spur gear when the pinion loosened and moved on the shaft. I got a new spur and have just fitted it but found the motor wouldnt turn and felt really weird, so I took the motor out and ive found the rotor has shattered inside the stator! The motor was geared 7.4:1 and I think it was running about 40deg boost with turbo 13 and the newest software, motor timing was 12deg. Temps had been only about 40-50C (110-130F) after a run. The track is quite long as it was built for 1/8 nitro. Any Ideas why this may have happened? Did it rev too high or was the rotor maybe a dodgy part? Also does anyone know if i can replace the rotor with one out of a 17.5 redline? I know the stock motor has a 12.5mm rotor and the 4.5t a 13mm, will it still work? and should i do this given what happened to the other rotor?
cheers
cheers
the smaller rotor should handle the higher RPM that you are hitting on such a large track better. If you wish to continue to run mod, I would suggest getting a couple of different motors. Perhaps a 5.5t and a 6.5t in order to figure out the best combination.
Tech Rookie
Yeh you're right about that everything on the car is taking a beating compared to 17.5 class!
Do you think my setup was over reving the motor though for this to happen, it was only the 1st day id run it?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
When in sensored mode, you will want to set the timing advanced slider all the way to 100 as the speedo will default to this setting should the sensor circuit fail for some reason. It's the first slider on the timing page.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Very simple setup and works well.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I'm running a 17.5 motor on F104, how do you guys determine the Boost at End RPM? I see a lot of settings at 20016. Is it usually the limit? Also, what is the "Advanced" button for as it is disabled?
Last edited by ogreasurada; 09-01-2012 at 02:06 AM.
Well preparing to send in my smoked tekin. Can't believe I finally get scammed on Rctech by buying a non working tekin.