Tekin RS ESC sensored
Super Moderator
iTrader: (62)
So I have a RS pro (v223 FW) that sometimes will not go into reverse. the ESC is set-up with the reverse delay, and the ESC lights will ramp up when trigger is pushed in reverse, but no action from the motor. It is intermittent, sometimes works, sometimes not. I've recalibrated with the same result. I tried the reverse with no delay, and it worked everytime, although I do not want to run it like that. Using airtronics tx/rx (FHSS3)
Any suggestions on what to look for/change?
Any suggestions on what to look for/change?
When you come to that abrupt stop, Do not instantly tap reverse. Give it about 1 full second, and it will work everytime. When you hit reverse before the delay is over, it starts the delay over again. (I think)...Hope that helps and make's sense.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Thanks for the suggestion, but I've let in sit in neutral for up to 5 seconds, and it still won't reverse (sometimes)
What is your neutral width set to? (check it in Hotwire) Try making it a little wider (bigger value).
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
We MUST see a solid neutral signal for one second before reverse will work. Any deviation from neutral will reset the timer.
Randy,
I've been scouring the Tekin website and this forum for hours now and I think I finally understand the Hotwire. I still do have a few questions if you don't mind and can you correct my writing below if it's not correct or unclear?
So when I choose the Timing Profile to be:
1 = stock "blinky" with 0 degrees timing on the ESC. But there is timing available on the motor can. So for my Tekin 17.5 motor, it looks like each notch is 4 degrees with a maximum of 24 degrees timing. Does this mean with my "blinky" setup, I actually have 24 degrees of timing?
2 = 15 degrees in ESC. So if there is 15 degrees in the ESC and 24 degrees in the motor can, does this now mean that I have 39 degrees of timing?
3 = 25 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 49 degrees timing?
4 = 35 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 59 degrees timing?
5 = 45 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 69 degrees timing?
C1 when run in DUAL MODE, I can set the timing from 0 to 100. The boost and turbo and not available in DUAL MODE. Again, if I set this timing to 100 and the motor can has 24, do I now have 124 degrees timing?
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE the ESC ignores whatever timing is set in the DUAL MODE. I can set timing to be from 0 to 55 degrees and control at what motor rpm I want the timing to start. How does it know what my maximum RPM is? I'v put different motors on it and it seems that the max rpm is always 20016 rpm? Again, does whatever I set this to add to the timing of the motor can?
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE allows me to even add more timing "Turbo" from 0 to 20 additional degrees on top of whatever I set from 0 to 55 in the "Boost" section. Instead of motor rpm being the trigger for this to take effect, it's the length of time I have my finger on "maximum" throttle. Presumably, I keep my finger on maximum throttle when entering a long straightaway. The "Turbo Ramp" setting will control how gentle the turbo is added. Presumably, if the setting is at 3 and adding 20 more degrees of turbo, this "jolt" could make RWD cars spin or fishtail. Again, if the motor is set at 24, the Boost set at 55, and the Turbo set at 20, I could have 99 degrees of timing at full throttle and speed at the straighway.
C2 is the same as C1 but can be configured for a different motor.
Thus, in sensored mode, you can only get 75 degrees of timing max (plus whatever you have on the motor can). If the sensor cable falls off which effectively puts you into DUAL MODE, then whatever setting you had in dual mode goes into effect.
So theoretically, since the DUAL MODE max timing degree is 100 degrees the DUAL MODE car could theoretically be faster due to being 1 degree higher in timing than SENSORED MODE.
Last question on timing, is there a "maximum" amount of timing brushless motors are capable of? Based on my logic above, it seem that Tekin motors at 24 degrees and maxed DUAL MODE at 100, gives 124 degrees timing total. I know that operating it above 180 degrees in temperature would damage the motor. So I'm wondering if there's a damaging timing as well.
Regarding the throttle curve profile, I usually run at the most aggressive 5 setting. I read somewhere that v212 5 setting is the same as v223 5 setting. Is this true? I question it since the 223 throttle curve picture looks a bit more tame than the throttle curve picture for the 212 setting (and as it's shown in the manual that came in the box of the ESC).
Sorry for all the questions! I still haven't fooled around with Active Braking since I'm still not sure what it's all about except for "harder braking when the car is at top speed". With a 17.5 Tekin motor, I believe I already lock up the brakes when set at 50%. So I'm not seeing the scenario where Active Braking would help?
Thanks in advance for the help!
p.s. - since the Hotwire seems to be dictated by the Timing Profile setting, why not just have 7 check boxes for the Timing Profile (1-5, C1, C2) and then expose/hide all the relevant settings for brake, throttle, boost, turbo, reverse, etc.. at the same time? I find it a pain to toggle back and forth in between tabs trying to remember what each of those setting were. I work for a "major" software company one of many things we do is "user interface experience". Since I've been a fan of Tekin for 25 years, I'd love to put in any helpful suggestions that I can to keep you successful (I was heartbroken when Tekin was "lost" for a while). Also, the color choices makes it very difficult to read. PM me if your interested and I can even draw up a mock up if you'd like.
I've been scouring the Tekin website and this forum for hours now and I think I finally understand the Hotwire. I still do have a few questions if you don't mind and can you correct my writing below if it's not correct or unclear?
So when I choose the Timing Profile to be:
1 = stock "blinky" with 0 degrees timing on the ESC. But there is timing available on the motor can. So for my Tekin 17.5 motor, it looks like each notch is 4 degrees with a maximum of 24 degrees timing. Does this mean with my "blinky" setup, I actually have 24 degrees of timing?
2 = 15 degrees in ESC. So if there is 15 degrees in the ESC and 24 degrees in the motor can, does this now mean that I have 39 degrees of timing?
3 = 25 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 49 degrees timing?
4 = 35 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 59 degrees timing?
5 = 45 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 69 degrees timing?
C1 when run in DUAL MODE, I can set the timing from 0 to 100. The boost and turbo and not available in DUAL MODE. Again, if I set this timing to 100 and the motor can has 24, do I now have 124 degrees timing?
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE the ESC ignores whatever timing is set in the DUAL MODE. I can set timing to be from 0 to 55 degrees and control at what motor rpm I want the timing to start. How does it know what my maximum RPM is? I'v put different motors on it and it seems that the max rpm is always 20016 rpm? Again, does whatever I set this to add to the timing of the motor can?
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE allows me to even add more timing "Turbo" from 0 to 20 additional degrees on top of whatever I set from 0 to 55 in the "Boost" section. Instead of motor rpm being the trigger for this to take effect, it's the length of time I have my finger on "maximum" throttle. Presumably, I keep my finger on maximum throttle when entering a long straightaway. The "Turbo Ramp" setting will control how gentle the turbo is added. Presumably, if the setting is at 3 and adding 20 more degrees of turbo, this "jolt" could make RWD cars spin or fishtail. Again, if the motor is set at 24, the Boost set at 55, and the Turbo set at 20, I could have 99 degrees of timing at full throttle and speed at the straighway.
C2 is the same as C1 but can be configured for a different motor.
Thus, in sensored mode, you can only get 75 degrees of timing max (plus whatever you have on the motor can). If the sensor cable falls off which effectively puts you into DUAL MODE, then whatever setting you had in dual mode goes into effect.
So theoretically, since the DUAL MODE max timing degree is 100 degrees the DUAL MODE car could theoretically be faster due to being 1 degree higher in timing than SENSORED MODE.
Last question on timing, is there a "maximum" amount of timing brushless motors are capable of? Based on my logic above, it seem that Tekin motors at 24 degrees and maxed DUAL MODE at 100, gives 124 degrees timing total. I know that operating it above 180 degrees in temperature would damage the motor. So I'm wondering if there's a damaging timing as well.
Regarding the throttle curve profile, I usually run at the most aggressive 5 setting. I read somewhere that v212 5 setting is the same as v223 5 setting. Is this true? I question it since the 223 throttle curve picture looks a bit more tame than the throttle curve picture for the 212 setting (and as it's shown in the manual that came in the box of the ESC).
Sorry for all the questions! I still haven't fooled around with Active Braking since I'm still not sure what it's all about except for "harder braking when the car is at top speed". With a 17.5 Tekin motor, I believe I already lock up the brakes when set at 50%. So I'm not seeing the scenario where Active Braking would help?
Thanks in advance for the help!
p.s. - since the Hotwire seems to be dictated by the Timing Profile setting, why not just have 7 check boxes for the Timing Profile (1-5, C1, C2) and then expose/hide all the relevant settings for brake, throttle, boost, turbo, reverse, etc.. at the same time? I find it a pain to toggle back and forth in between tabs trying to remember what each of those setting were. I work for a "major" software company one of many things we do is "user interface experience". Since I've been a fan of Tekin for 25 years, I'd love to put in any helpful suggestions that I can to keep you successful (I was heartbroken when Tekin was "lost" for a while). Also, the color choices makes it very difficult to read. PM me if your interested and I can even draw up a mock up if you'd like.
p.s. - since the Hotwire seems to be dictated by the Timing Profile setting, why not just have 7 check boxes for the Timing Profile (1-5, C1, C2) and then expose/hide all the relevant settings for brake, throttle, boost, turbo, reverse, etc.. at the same time? I find it a pain to toggle back and forth in between tabs trying to remember what each of those setting were. I work for a "major" software company one of many things we do is "user interface experience". Since I've been a fan of Tekin for 25 years, I'd love to put in any helpful suggestions that I can to keep you successful (I was heartbroken when Tekin was "lost" for a while). Also, the color choices makes it very difficult to read. PM me if your interested and I can even draw up a mock up if you'd like.
Or, Tekin could make a simple programming box like the HobbyWing one.
Randy,
I've been scouring the Tekin website and this forum for hours now and I think I finally understand the Hotwire. I still do have a few questions if you don't mind and can you correct my writing below if it's not correct or unclear?
So when I choose the Timing Profile to be:
1 = stock "blinky" with 0 degrees timing on the ESC. But there is timing available on the motor can. So for my Tekin 17.5 motor, it looks like each notch is 4 degrees with a maximum of 24 degrees timing. Does this mean with my "blinky" setup, I actually have 24 degrees of timing?Correct
2 = 15 degrees in ESC. So if there is 15 degrees in the ESC and 24 degrees in the motor can, does this now mean that I have 39 degrees of timing?Also correct.
3 = 25 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 49 degrees timing?yes
4 = 35 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 59 degrees timing?yes
5 = 45 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 69 degrees timing?yes
C1 when run in DUAL MODE, I can set the timing from 0 to 100. The boost and turbo and not available in DUAL MODE. Again, if I set this timing to 100 and the motor can has 24, do I now have 124 degrees timing?No, dual mode timing is a percentage of 30 degrees total. So at 100 you only get 30. Motor timing is null in dual mode.
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE the ESC ignores whatever timing is set in the DUAL MODE. I can set timing to be from 0 to 55 degrees and control at what motor rpm I want the timing to start. How does it know what my maximum RPM is? I'v put different motors on it and it seems that the max rpm is always 20016 rpm? Again, does whatever I set this to add to the timing of the motor can?It's not "max" rpm rather it's "end rpm." This is user controlled for tracks with varying lengths and layouts.
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE allows me to even add more timing "Turbo" from 0 to 20 additional degrees on top of whatever I set from 0 to 55 in the "Boost" section. Instead of motor rpm being the trigger for this to take effect, it's the length of time I have my finger on "maximum" throttle. Presumably, I keep my finger on maximum throttle when entering a long straightaway. The "Turbo Ramp" setting will control how gentle the turbo is added. Presumably, if the setting is at 3 and adding 20 more degrees of turbo, this "jolt" could make RWD cars spin or fishtail. Again, if the motor is set at 24, the Boost set at 55, and the Turbo set at 20, I could have 99 degrees of timing at full throttle and speed at the straighway.Yes and that much timing is bad.
C2 is the same as C1 but can be configured for a different motor.Correct OR have a different timing boost/rpm level(s)
Thus, in sensored mode, you can only get 75 degrees of timing max (plus whatever you have on the motor can). If the sensor cable falls off which effectively puts you into DUAL MODE, then whatever setting you had in dual mode goes into effect.Yes!
So theoretically, since the DUAL MODE max timing degree is 100 degrees the DUAL MODE car could theoretically be faster due to being 1 degree higher in timing than SENSORED MODE.Incorrect. Again timing in dual mode is a percentage, not actual timing.
Last question on timing, is there a "maximum" amount of timing brushless motors are capable of? Yes it's 60 degrees before a mis-commutation will occur
Based on my logic above, it seem that Tekin motors at 24 degrees and maxed DUAL MODE at 100, gives 124 degrees timing total. I know that operating it above 180 degrees in temperature would damage the motor. So I'm wondering if there's a damaging timing as well.Yes, at or near 60 can and will damage a motor if the gearing is not spot on. The further timing is pushed the narrower the "correct" timing window is.
Regarding the throttle curve profile, I usually run at the most aggressive 5 setting. I read somewhere that v212 5 setting is the same as v223 5 setting. Is this true? I question it since the 223 throttle curve picture looks a bit more tame than the throttle curve picture for the 212 setting (and as it's shown in the manual that came in the box of the ESC).Not exactly. 212 TP 5 is more like 223 TP 3
Sorry for all the questions! I still haven't fooled around with Active Braking since I'm still not sure what it's all about except for "harder braking when the car is at top speed". With a 17.5 Tekin motor, I believe I already lock up the brakes when set at 50%. So I'm not seeing the scenario where Active Braking would help?It's meant for extreme conditions for example 17.5 booted on a track with a 250ft straight.
Thanks in advance for the help!
p.s. - since the Hotwire seems to be dictated by the Timing Profile setting, why not just have 7 check boxes for the Timing Profile (1-5, C1, C2) and then expose/hide all the relevant settings for brake, throttle, boost, turbo, reverse, etc.. at the same time? I find it a pain to toggle back and forth in between tabs trying to remember what each of those setting were. I work for a "major" software company one of many things we do is "user interface experience". Since I've been a fan of Tekin for 25 years, I'd love to put in any helpful suggestions that I can to keep you successful (I was heartbroken when Tekin was "lost" for a while). Also, the color choices makes it very difficult to read. PM me if your interested and I can even draw up a mock up if you'd like.
I've been scouring the Tekin website and this forum for hours now and I think I finally understand the Hotwire. I still do have a few questions if you don't mind and can you correct my writing below if it's not correct or unclear?
So when I choose the Timing Profile to be:
1 = stock "blinky" with 0 degrees timing on the ESC. But there is timing available on the motor can. So for my Tekin 17.5 motor, it looks like each notch is 4 degrees with a maximum of 24 degrees timing. Does this mean with my "blinky" setup, I actually have 24 degrees of timing?Correct
2 = 15 degrees in ESC. So if there is 15 degrees in the ESC and 24 degrees in the motor can, does this now mean that I have 39 degrees of timing?Also correct.
3 = 25 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 49 degrees timing?yes
4 = 35 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 59 degrees timing?yes
5 = 45 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 69 degrees timing?yes
C1 when run in DUAL MODE, I can set the timing from 0 to 100. The boost and turbo and not available in DUAL MODE. Again, if I set this timing to 100 and the motor can has 24, do I now have 124 degrees timing?No, dual mode timing is a percentage of 30 degrees total. So at 100 you only get 30. Motor timing is null in dual mode.
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE the ESC ignores whatever timing is set in the DUAL MODE. I can set timing to be from 0 to 55 degrees and control at what motor rpm I want the timing to start. How does it know what my maximum RPM is? I'v put different motors on it and it seems that the max rpm is always 20016 rpm? Again, does whatever I set this to add to the timing of the motor can?It's not "max" rpm rather it's "end rpm." This is user controlled for tracks with varying lengths and layouts.
C1 when run in SENSORED MODE allows me to even add more timing "Turbo" from 0 to 20 additional degrees on top of whatever I set from 0 to 55 in the "Boost" section. Instead of motor rpm being the trigger for this to take effect, it's the length of time I have my finger on "maximum" throttle. Presumably, I keep my finger on maximum throttle when entering a long straightaway. The "Turbo Ramp" setting will control how gentle the turbo is added. Presumably, if the setting is at 3 and adding 20 more degrees of turbo, this "jolt" could make RWD cars spin or fishtail. Again, if the motor is set at 24, the Boost set at 55, and the Turbo set at 20, I could have 99 degrees of timing at full throttle and speed at the straighway.Yes and that much timing is bad.
C2 is the same as C1 but can be configured for a different motor.Correct OR have a different timing boost/rpm level(s)
Thus, in sensored mode, you can only get 75 degrees of timing max (plus whatever you have on the motor can). If the sensor cable falls off which effectively puts you into DUAL MODE, then whatever setting you had in dual mode goes into effect.Yes!
So theoretically, since the DUAL MODE max timing degree is 100 degrees the DUAL MODE car could theoretically be faster due to being 1 degree higher in timing than SENSORED MODE.Incorrect. Again timing in dual mode is a percentage, not actual timing.
Last question on timing, is there a "maximum" amount of timing brushless motors are capable of? Yes it's 60 degrees before a mis-commutation will occur
Based on my logic above, it seem that Tekin motors at 24 degrees and maxed DUAL MODE at 100, gives 124 degrees timing total. I know that operating it above 180 degrees in temperature would damage the motor. So I'm wondering if there's a damaging timing as well.Yes, at or near 60 can and will damage a motor if the gearing is not spot on. The further timing is pushed the narrower the "correct" timing window is.
Regarding the throttle curve profile, I usually run at the most aggressive 5 setting. I read somewhere that v212 5 setting is the same as v223 5 setting. Is this true? I question it since the 223 throttle curve picture looks a bit more tame than the throttle curve picture for the 212 setting (and as it's shown in the manual that came in the box of the ESC).Not exactly. 212 TP 5 is more like 223 TP 3
Sorry for all the questions! I still haven't fooled around with Active Braking since I'm still not sure what it's all about except for "harder braking when the car is at top speed". With a 17.5 Tekin motor, I believe I already lock up the brakes when set at 50%. So I'm not seeing the scenario where Active Braking would help?It's meant for extreme conditions for example 17.5 booted on a track with a 250ft straight.
Thanks in advance for the help!
p.s. - since the Hotwire seems to be dictated by the Timing Profile setting, why not just have 7 check boxes for the Timing Profile (1-5, C1, C2) and then expose/hide all the relevant settings for brake, throttle, boost, turbo, reverse, etc.. at the same time? I find it a pain to toggle back and forth in between tabs trying to remember what each of those setting were. I work for a "major" software company one of many things we do is "user interface experience". Since I've been a fan of Tekin for 25 years, I'd love to put in any helpful suggestions that I can to keep you successful (I was heartbroken when Tekin was "lost" for a while). Also, the color choices makes it very difficult to read. PM me if your interested and I can even draw up a mock up if you'd like.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Greetings,
What is the difference between Timing profile 1 (blinky mode?) and checking the spec Mode lockout?
cheers
What is the difference between Timing profile 1 (blinky mode?) and checking the spec Mode lockout?
cheers
They are both blinky mode, but the spec mode lockout prevents changing from that profile except via Hotwire. This prevents someone from switching out of blinky mode after going through tech without it being really obvious.
Randy, THANKS very much for the clarifications! If alright, I have some followup so I don't blow up my motors!
Where does the 30 degrees total get set? I can't find it anywhere.
So if anything over 60 degrees of timing is "bad", then that means that if I have the timing on the motor can maxed out at 24 degrees and I set the ESC to Timing Profile #5, I get a total of 69 degrees. So I suppose I shouldn't do that and maybe just set the motor can to around 12 degrees which would give me a total of 12 + 45 = 57 degrees of timing.
And finally, if I want to "save" my motors, in C1 or C2, I should limit my timing to a max of 36 degrees if I keep my motor timing to 24 degrees (36 + 24 = 60). And if I set the Timing Advance to 100% (= 30 degrees max) in case the sensor wire falls off, I'm still safe.
...C1 when run in DUAL MODE, I can set the timing from 0 to 100. The boost and turbo and not available in DUAL MODE. Again, if I set this timing to 100 and the motor can has 24, do I now have 124 degrees timing?No, dual mode timing is a percentage of 30 degrees total. So at 100 you only get 30. Motor timing is null in dual mode....
....5 = 45 in ESC, with Tekin motor set at 24 = 69 degrees timing?yes
...Last question on timing, is there a "maximum" amount of timing brushless motors are capable of? Yes it's 60 degrees before a mis-commutation will occur...
Based on my logic above, it seem that Tekin motors at 24 degrees and maxed DUAL MODE at 100, gives 124 degrees timing total. I know that operating it above 180 degrees in temperature would damage the motor. So I'm wondering if there's a damaging timing as well.Yes, at or near 60 can and will damage a motor if the gearing is not spot on. The further timing is pushed the narrower the "correct" timing window is..
...Last question on timing, is there a "maximum" amount of timing brushless motors are capable of? Yes it's 60 degrees before a mis-commutation will occur...
Based on my logic above, it seem that Tekin motors at 24 degrees and maxed DUAL MODE at 100, gives 124 degrees timing total. I know that operating it above 180 degrees in temperature would damage the motor. So I'm wondering if there's a damaging timing as well.Yes, at or near 60 can and will damage a motor if the gearing is not spot on. The further timing is pushed the narrower the "correct" timing window is..
And finally, if I want to "save" my motors, in C1 or C2, I should limit my timing to a max of 36 degrees if I keep my motor timing to 24 degrees (36 + 24 = 60). And if I set the Timing Advance to 100% (= 30 degrees max) in case the sensor wire falls off, I'm still safe.
To be honest the only time I max out motor timing is if I'm running blinky mode.
100 is the percentage of 30 degrees. That is the maximum that can be applied while running sensorless or D2 dual mode which is sensored but sensorless timing/drive.
The "60" isn't a magical number. People will often have more than this in their setup BUT they're not getting there on the track. If you do manage to actually give the motor 60 degrees it WILL not last long at all.
As with any form of racing dancing with the "edge" is up to you.
100 is the percentage of 30 degrees. That is the maximum that can be applied while running sensorless or D2 dual mode which is sensored but sensorless timing/drive.
The "60" isn't a magical number. People will often have more than this in their setup BUT they're not getting there on the track. If you do manage to actually give the motor 60 degrees it WILL not last long at all.
As with any form of racing dancing with the "edge" is up to you.
Randy, can you post the pics of your setting? Coz its really clear when you post the pics of that setting. So all will understand it. Please bro...