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Old 01-29-2009, 02:52 PM   #2251
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I have the Tekin RS Pro. I have adjusted the brakes to the max amount (I think. All the way to the right last led light). But it still will roll to a stop. I had the LRP TC and it brakes stopped instantly. Should the brakes be working better than a roll to a stop or is that normal with tekin?
The brakes in dual mode are relatively low...to get LRP TC like brakes you will need to switch to sensored only mode via the hotwire.
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Old 01-29-2009, 03:05 PM   #2252
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TRIPS : Your idea sounds good but I'm not sure of the programming logistic or space available. Personally I would not use the info. If you trying to compare your motor to my motor for instance timing is only part, we'd also have to check rotor strength and inductance and driving style, otherwise timing comparison would only show a partial picture and for reasons of gearing not any more precise as a whole than the 3 degree variance.

Ken,

I agree it wouldn't be all that useful, and there are too many other variables as you mention to make any direct comparisons between motors based on timing alone.

For me, it's just a touch of obsessive/compulsive tendency that keeps me wanting to know. In my case, knowing the exact timing I'm getting would be good for better sleep at night... and probably little else.

D
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Old 01-29-2009, 03:55 PM   #2253
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For me, it's just a touch of obsessive/compulsive tendency that keeps me wanting to know. In my case, knowing the exact timing I'm getting would be good for better sleep at night... and probably little else.D
I got to admit that sounds a lot like me. I'd like to know exactly what the timing is, and I tend to over analyze most things and ask why/why not. Usually, its useless info but I'd rather have info I don't need than not have info I do need.
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Old 01-29-2009, 04:38 PM   #2254
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No, 12 degrees is what he sensors are actually at in many locked timing motors (eg novak) so you still have to add the ~15 of pre-read.
BTW the novaks have adustable timing. lossen thed screws on the back plate then the ring ( on a 13.5 is orange, 10.5 blue ect.) twists.

heres a pic of the ring out of the motor:
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...andbearing.jpg
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:50 PM   #2255
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There seem to be quite a few unused LEDs on the hotwire?
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:50 PM   #2256
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Randy you have email.
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:57 PM   #2257
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BTW the novaks have adustable timing. lossen thed screws on the back plate then the ring ( on a 13.5 is orange, 10.5 blue ect.) twists.

heres a pic of the ring out of the motor:
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...andbearing.jpg
I know you can adjust them, but it isn't really beneficial to if you have a tekin with boost. First, there are no marks to tell you what you are at. Second, you are twisting the whole endbell which flexes the internal motor wires unlike other adjustable motors that only spin the sensor harness.
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Old 01-29-2009, 11:44 PM   #2258
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Default RS Setup sheets

We have a new setup sheet for the RS and RS Pro available for download to help out keeping track of your settings when you don't have hotwire available. The PDF is setup to allow you to print 2 sheets side x side on one sheet of paper.

download pdf setup sheet
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Old 01-30-2009, 02:44 AM   #2259
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I know you can adjust them, but it isn't really beneficial to if you have a tekin with boost. First, there are no marks to tell you what you are at. Second, you are twisting the whole endbell which flexes the internal motor wires unlike other adjustable motors that only spin the sensor harness.
im not worried about flexing the wires, the way it was done. plus you can just calculate the timing like we did before for the lrps.

from what i understand boost is only at the top end anyway and it wont go as far as motor timing and software timing. i usually don't recommend more than 35 but there are instances where it can be needed
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Old 01-30-2009, 04:24 AM   #2260
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Originally Posted by mxzhonkey View Post
im not worried about flexing the wires, the way it was done. plus you can just calculate the timing like we did before for the lrps.

from what i understand boost is only at the top end anyway and it wont go as far as motor timing and software timing. i usually don't recommend more than 35 but there are instances where it can be needed
....BOOST IS SOFTWARE TIMING AND IS ADDED TO THE ENTIRE RPM RANGE OF THE MOTOR WHILE IN SENSORED ONLY MODE. Total additional timing is 0*-30* above and beyond what is achievable with the motor, and it is precisely adjustable in 1* increments.

If your running hybrid mode (you really only should be for winds under 10.5, the TIMING only comes into play when the unit switches from sensored to sensorless which is determined by rpm. NO I don't know what rpm.
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:42 AM   #2261
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Quick question. Is "push" in the hotwire only for brushed motors?
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:54 AM   #2262
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Default Hotwire tethering

Is the Hotwire tethered to one speed control and one pc, or can I borrow someone else's and use on my pc and my speed controller and not mess up the other guys settings?
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:59 AM   #2263
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Default messed up settings

If you borrow a pals ESc and change the settings they would be your settings and not his.
His would be lost as settings are not stored either in Esc or PC
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:03 AM   #2264
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If you borrow a pals ESc and change the settings they would be your settings and not his.
His would be lost as settings are not stored either in Esc or PC
I'm only borrowing the hotwire for my pc and esc.
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:22 AM   #2265
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Originally Posted by Adim_X View Post
Quick question. Is "push" in the hotwire only for brushed motors?
As I understand it, "Push Control" is basicaly applying 'creep' in a brushed motor only during slowdown , to allow it to roll to a stop like a brushless rather than just have the magnets suck the armature to a stop
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