Tekin RS ESC sensored

I know this is an onroad thread but this is the best tekin thread I can find 
I am going to try a tekin in offroad again this weekend and was curious with the latest update are people finding that profile 3 is the most linear or smoothest feel? Or will I need to make a custom one?
I usually run an 8.5 in my buggy with an sxx but want to try the latest tekin software and see if I like it.

I am going to try a tekin in offroad again this weekend and was curious with the latest update are people finding that profile 3 is the most linear or smoothest feel? Or will I need to make a custom one?
I usually run an 8.5 in my buggy with an sxx but want to try the latest tekin software and see if I like it.

Randy, I currently running WGT 1s 13.5 blinky with the 212 software (the last version before the latest one). I have been running conseistant laptimes, and my question is if I upgrade to the latest and greatest version, will it benefit me at all? Is it any smoother? Or should I stick with if it isn't broke, don't fix it?


Randy, I currently running WGT 1s 13.5 blinky with the 212 software (the last version before the latest one). I have been running conseistant laptimes, and my question is if I upgrade to the latest and greatest version, will it benefit me at all? Is it any smoother? Or should I stick with if it isn't broke, don't fix it? 


does anyone no how you turn off the lockout mode?
Tech Master
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I'm a beginner to this brushless motor system, seems like their is a lot of information out there regarding SC and Motors. Everyone always points you into a direction that maybe you are not quite ready for it. I own 2 Tekin RS Pro's I use one in my Losi 22 the other in my TOP. Both motors are Thunder Power, on my buggy I run the 9.5, ok it's a bit much for it and like most hobby stores they want to sell you what they have rather then tell you the truth. My TOP has 17.5 yes I got the top later. The only reason I went with Tekin SC is because the buggy turn out so well. Sometimes I have to reset the SC to the transmitter. But for most part it works well. With my TOP I'm having and issue yesterday at our local Hobby Store race. I ran good with practice and 2 qualifiers. But when it came time for race, the first 2 laps seem ok, then the Thunder Power on the strait away it lost all top end no power, I took the motor apart ones back to the house, couldn't find anything wrong. I discovered that there was an update to the SC so I updated it. Seems ok know but I will not know until I put it on the track. But know the motor continues to motor forward even after I let up on the throttle. When I use the brake to stop movement it stops. What settings have I goof up on? Thank you for any input.

thank you bpalmer.

Randy, I currently running WGT 1s 13.5 blinky with the 212 software (the last version before the latest one). I have been running conseistant laptimes, and my question is if I upgrade to the latest and greatest version, will it benefit me at all? Is it any smoother? Or should I stick with if it isn't broke, don't fix it? 


I just tried to update my RS Pro to 223, but it the Hotwire application seemed to get confused and hang mid-update. I left it for a few minutes to see if it would resolve, but eventually I had to kill it in Task Manager. Now I can't connect via Hotwire at all, and the ESC does not run. There is one middle light when connected to Hotwire, and zero lights or chimes when I power it up. I've tried three different PC's, radio calibration, and the factory reset to no effect. Any other things to try?
I have an RS that I updated to 223 some time ago, and I use the Hotwire to change settings all the time and it still works. This was the first time connecting/updating the RS Pro and the update seems to have killed it
I have an RS that I updated to 223 some time ago, and I use the Hotwire to change settings all the time and it still works. This was the first time connecting/updating the RS Pro and the update seems to have killed it

Thanks,
Steve
Tech Adept

Hi,
I run 1/10th touring cars mainly on mid sized carpet tracks. Ive always run 13.5 boosted and am now switching over to 17.5 blinky. Roughly how many teeth in pinions do i need to go up by in comparison?
I run 1/10th touring cars mainly on mid sized carpet tracks. Ive always run 13.5 boosted and am now switching over to 17.5 blinky. Roughly how many teeth in pinions do i need to go up by in comparison?

Do this first please:
Hook up ONLY the hotwire to the pc, launch the software, hit the help button, what version is listed? It should be 8.4.1 Is it?
Tech Adept

Im using the lrp x12 in 13.5 boosted and im goin to an lrp x12 17.5 blinky.
I was just wondering roughly on the same track how many pinions you would go up by between the two classes, some people have said around 8 or 9?
I was just wondering roughly on the same track how many pinions you would go up by between the two classes, some people have said around 8 or 9?

I checked the support email account, it's all up to date answer wise. So check your spam folder for a response, just in case.
Do this first please:
Hook up ONLY the hotwire to the pc, launch the software, hit the help button, what version is listed? It should be 8.4.1 Is it?
Do this first please:
Hook up ONLY the hotwire to the pc, launch the software, hit the help button, what version is listed? It should be 8.4.1 Is it?
Checked my spam folder, and it only has penis enlargements. Should I try the email again?