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Old 04-09-2012, 09:27 PM   #22471
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How many caps on the esc: any less than two will be a disaster. Also you will need a fan blowing on your solder posts , and at least one Rx capacitor with 65c lipo packs... What's your FDR???? Over 9.0FDR I guess... Is there a fan on the motor???? Waxing the bodyshell is also a must. Remember, you're at the limit here, and you might need to turn the dual level from 80% to 60% ... I can't wait to build my CRC GENX10 monster 2.5t RS pro , but I am planning to use four esc capacitors, two RX capacitors, 10AWG wires, ceramic Bearings, and Tp 5300 65c pack..... Personally I think 2wd is better with a 2.5t than 4wd, which I would limit to 3.5t motors with timing on the top end.....Good luck....
My fdr is 10.24 I'll try a 15 tooth to bring my fdr to 11.6. Currently Im just running one cap on the motor. I'll try adding one or two more cap and see how it goes.

Just curious how will running a cap to the rx help with temps? I thought this was just to prevent glitching or brownouts?

Can a battery effect higher temps on the esc? I'm using Trak Power 6200mah 50C. Do I need something higher than 50C?
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:04 PM   #22472
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There should be no hesitation, sounds like you're missing something. Post your setup, the more info the better.
Blinky 212

Neutral width is 10
Throttle Profile 5
Brake is 100
Drag brake is 5
Motor is Reedy Sonic with 35 deg of timing

No expo set at all in the radio
1 capcitor

14 gauge black wire with white writing

Battery is a Reedy 65c
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:50 AM   #22473
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Thanks bertrandsv87.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:03 AM   #22474
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Blinky 212

Neutral width is 10
Throttle Profile 5
Brake is 100
Drag brake is 5
Motor is Reedy Sonic with 35 deg of timing

No expo set at all in the radio
1 capcitor

14 gauge black wire with white writing

Battery is a Reedy 65c
Reedy what turn? TC or pan car? Where is the rest of your setup? Min throttle? timing rpm's?
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:55 PM   #22475
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Blinky 212

Neutral width is 10
Throttle Profile 5
Brake is 100
Drag brake is 5
Motor is Reedy Sonic with 35 deg of timing

No expo set at all in the radio
1 capcitor

14 gauge black wire with white writing

Battery is a Reedy 65c
is your issue w/ standing starts? or just out of the corner acceleration? any diff slippage?

i'd make sure to check your capacitor. tekin 212 normally works like a 'light switch' -- power is on and off with not much of a middle band. this is thankfully changed with 223!

did you make sure to re-calibrate your radio end points?

take a look at running throttle profile 3. you'll generate less heat.. so you can run more gear

also - drag brake! come on! come to the dark side, turn off drag brake and use push brake (and reduce the amount of brake throw in your speedo so you just slow down enough to make the corner).
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:56 PM   #22476
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Reedy what turn? TC or pan car? Where is the rest of your setup? Min throttle? timing rpm's?
Art makes fun of pan cars. He is a TC guy for life!
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:17 PM   #22477
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Reedy what turn? TC or pan car? Where is the rest of your setup? Min throttle? timing rpm's?
It says "Blinky".
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:24 PM   #22478
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It says "Blinky".
Yeah and those adjustments are still active, thanks. Last I checked I thought I had it sorted out
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:28 PM   #22479
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Mrslowz, you meant you were running only one cap on the esc,, not the motor.... Also 10.26FDR and 11.6FDR might cause some motor overrevving issues, which will overheat the esc quickly. You need to find the 2.5t sweet spot, which I think should be around 9.6FDR to 9.8FDR . Temp your motor and esc frequently , and time your runs: nothing over 6minutes please... As far as your 50c packs are concerned, I would say you're good if you can do 6+minutes without hitting the cutoff.... Also the Rx caps will make sure you're esc's bec stays steady: anything that helps the esc should in turn help your 2.5t system to perform like a dream...
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:36 PM   #22480
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By the way Myslowz, if you are running the tc6, I would suggest you keep applying dry Teflon to the surface areas that might make contact with the spinning belts, so the rubber on the belts don't grab onto anything, causing more friction... I remember seeing rubber markings on the top decks of many tc6's running mod, and thermalling with 6.5t boosted...
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:00 PM   #22481
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Mrslowz, you meant you were running only one cap on the esc,, not the motor.... Also 10.26FDR and 11.6FDR might cause some motor overrevving issues, which will overheat the esc quickly. You need to find the 2.5t sweet spot, which I think should be around 9.6FDR to 9.8FDR . Temp your motor and esc frequently , and time your runs: nothing over 6minutes please... As far as your 50c packs are concerned, I would say you're good if you can do 6+minutes without hitting the cutoff.... Also the Rx caps will make sure you're esc's bec stays steady: anything that helps the esc should in turn help your 2.5t system to perform like a dream...
Lol, ya your right..., don't know why I wrote cap on the motor. As far as gear ratios go, won't running a lower FDR like 9.8 as oppose to a higher FDR cause the ESC to run even hotter? I thought that I needed to use a smaller pinion (increase my FDR) rather than a larger pinion (decrease my FDR)? I'll make sure to buy a rx cap the next time I go to my hobby store. Thanks for taking your time to answer my questions.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:06 PM   #22482
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By the way Myslowz, if you are running the tc6, I would suggest you keep applying dry Teflon to the surface areas that might make contact with the spinning belts, so the rubber on the belts don't grab onto anything, causing more friction... I remember seeing rubber markings on the top decks of many tc6's running mod, and thermalling with 6.5t boosted...
Never thought of that, I'll take a closer look at the car for marks the next time I run it. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:20 PM   #22483
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Running a smaller pinion reduces motor/esc heat to a point, within the sweet spot only: if you too far beyond the sweet spot, then all you get is heat, motor heat when overgeared,and esc heat when undergeared... So far, run mod tc's , 4.5t motors seem to like 7.1FDR to 7.8FDR(Novak velocity); 3.5t motors like 8.4FDR to 9.3 FDR( Novak velocity) on big tracks, so I am somewhat guessing a bit that the 2.5t would like 9.6FDR up but not too far past 9.8FDR....Testing is the only way to know for sure, and I must also note that I am running a tc4 shaft drive instead of belt drive...If you can pull it off, you will have the fastest car on any track for sure, but I doubt that it will be faster than a 3.5t with decent top end timing...
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:29 PM   #22484
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My interest here is to finally find a solution to running a 2.5t motor in both a tc6 and a pan type crc genx10 , and ultimately find the limit of acceleration of an Rc vehicle in a racing environment... I wish you success Mr Myslowz , and please don't hesitate to post some videos of you passing all these slow 6.5turns out there...Cheers...
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:40 PM   #22485
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Yeah and those adjustments are still active, thanks. Last I checked I thought I had it sorted out
The issue is from a standing start and as mike pointed out it is touring car. Motor is a 17.5 Reedy. Although in this case motor is irrelevant as it does the same thing with a revtech, duo3, and duo 2 motors.

Drive mode sensored only
Motor direction normal
Throttle profile 5
Current limit off
Throttle minimum 10
Drag brake 5
Brake strength 100
Reverse speed 100
Neutral width 10
Push control off
Brake minimum 10
Start rpm 5443
End rpm 20016
Turbo delay .5
Turbo ramp 1
Turbo 0
Boost 0


If there is a way to adjust the rpm range it is not in my version, or at least I don't see that option.

Also I have two tekins and they both exhibit similar reactions to immediate throttle input, both on the track and on the bench. I can physically see the hesitation from throttle input to car reaction. This problem only exists on my tekins...LRP and Speed passion do not do this.
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