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Old 02-17-2012, 12:11 PM   #22036
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
120ft isn't all that long really. I'm sure you'll be fine. As far as what motors give better braking power the lower the turn the better the brakes.
What about rotors? Does a high-torque rotor tend to give more braking?

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Old 02-17-2012, 12:42 PM   #22037
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Yes it will.

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Old 02-17-2012, 12:42 PM   #22038
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I completely agree with your highlit topics . The braking is fine, they're very strong and their stopping power is impressive on the track here and there.

I also run 1/12 and WGT and found the brakes way too strong in 212 and after downloading 222 I almost had to dial down the brakes to near zero or get rammed.
AreCee, it looks as though your brakes are just fine, and you're not having any problems with yours.

We could go on like this forever, but perhaps we should take Randy's advice and "move forward".
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:59 PM   #22039
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AreCee, it looks as though your brakes are just fine, and you're not having any problems with yours.

We could go on like this forever, but perhaps we should take Randy's advice and "move forward".
Just assuming your making fun of my grammar because i know it's not very well
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:40 PM   #22040
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Not you, not poking fun. It's an epidemic across every forum I use from people who have English (or American!) as their first language. You type it and spell it any way you like - we all need to live and let live.

At work, some of the things I do and say play similar havoc with the fundamental Laws of Physics and Mechanics, and the guys that know give me similar stick!! We are all good at something, and not good at everything.

You go on asking your questions EG, because what you find out increases all our knowledge.
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:28 PM   #22041
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I stopped the TC rat-race several years ago when the prices hit $400+ so I have little experience with modern TCs boosted or not.

You're correct that 1/12 scale and 1/10 pan cars are light and we only use brakes to avoid a collision and rarely ever apply them hard to turn.

No, no one is making fun of you but of the whole forum community for using lazy forum speak. I'm old school from way before computers and smartphones were used to write. Pen and paper writing made us pay attention to what we put down so others could understand our thoughts. Seriously, out of the four languages I speak English can be the most confusing.

It's all good and a never ending source of amusement.

Last edited by AreCee; 02-17-2012 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:09 PM   #22042
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You're correct that 1/12 scale and 1/10 pan cars are light and we only use brakes to avoid a collision and rarely ever apply them hard to turn.
Don't you wish we could go back to the days of wiper board speedos?

"a never ending source of amusement." You got that right.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:07 PM   #22043
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Originally Posted by lidebt2 View Post
Don't you wish we could go back to the days of wiper board speedos?

"a never ending source of amusement." You got that right.
You know, it is still possible to buy Parma resistors and microswitches, and brushed motors too!

Trev
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:10 PM   #22044
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You know, it is still possible to buy Parma resistors and microswitches, and brushed motors too!

Trev
Now that's before my time :P i've seen 1 working on a rc car before. when i first saw it i was very confused. I thought the guy just took a slot car handle thing apart to use a a speedo. never occurred that's how they used to be till he told me
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:16 PM   #22045
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So when 222 was available for download I did.
However, I still have 212 on my netbook and in my speedo's.
I'm going to race tomorrow. Question is should I update and go to 222 for smooth or stay with 212 in case I have an unwanted sensor issue?
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:56 PM   #22046
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use 222. if you don't like it you can always go back. 212 is still avalable in the new firmware. I think you will like it its much better in every way.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:17 PM   #22047
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
So when 222 was available for download I did.
However, I still have 212 on my netbook and in my speedo's.
I'm going to race tomorrow. Question is should I update and go to 222 for smooth or stay with 212 in case I have an unwanted sensor issue?
What class cars you running and motors? if thiers no hard braking spots from high speeds definitely use 222
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:25 AM   #22048
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Stop bickering over it. Some guys wanted 212's brake power back and we can do that easily. This reason along with the issue that we managed to not turn back on sensorless mode was reason enough for us to remove 222 from the site.

Brakes along with every other thing on a race car is driver dependent. I don't panic brake my car at the end of the straight for example. Someone who waits until the last minute to out brake another driver may not like the amount of brake power. This is usually only an issue on highly boosted 17.5 setups. 17.5's are horrible brake force generators to begin with. If you were using a 10.5 or even a mod this wouldn't be an issue at all.

Moving forward guys....
Randy
I'm happy you guys are fixing the sensorless issue. In my club main last night my sensor wire actually broke and the motor was then dead. It was completely my fault, I knew about the issue and neglected to put the old software back on
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:51 AM   #22049
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Default Stuttering at various RPM - RS Pro/Ballistic

I have a TLR 22, geared 30/76, running indoor on a small turf track. Novak Ballistic 13.5 with endbell timing at 15. My RS Pro, programmed with 212, stutters a lot. Here are ranged I have been tinkering with: timing advance is from 15-30, boost 30-50, turbo off to 15, starting rpm 3k, 5k, 8k.

First, what is the timing advance control on the left? How is it different from boost?

Second, if I set the timing advance higher than 15, I get a lot of stutter, sometimes right from the outset of rotation, but usually at some-point in the rpm range.

Maybe this is a question for a novak thread, but I strongly suspect it's a timing issue of some sort. Can the ESC tell me it's not sensing right?

I'm going to disassemble the motor, clean it with compressed air, and try another stator that I have to see if that helps.

Since I got the esc, there's been an intermittent a 0.5 delay at throttle coming on. What would cause that?
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:54 PM   #22050
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Originally Posted by mlprater View Post
I have a TLR 22, geared 30/76, running indoor on a small turf track. Novak Ballistic 13.5 with endbell timing at 15. My RS Pro, programmed with 212, stutters a lot. Here are ranged I have been tinkering with: timing advance is from 15-30, boost 30-50, turbo off to 15, starting rpm 3k, 5k, 8k.

First, what is the timing advance control on the left? How is it different from boost?

Second, if I set the timing advance higher than 15, I get a lot of stutter, sometimes right from the outset of rotation, but usually at some-point in the rpm range.

Maybe this is a question for a novak thread, but I strongly suspect it's a timing issue of some sort. Can the ESC tell me it's not sensing right?

I'm going to disassemble the motor, clean it with compressed air, and try another stator that I have to see if that helps.

Since I got the esc, there's been an intermittent a 0.5 delay at throttle coming on. What would cause that?
Tried a new receiver?
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