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Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored

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Old 02-16-2012, 09:05 AM
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Everyone needs to take deep breath, have a cup of coffee(what I'm doing right now) and relax.

We felt that it was far better to remove the software due to the issue. The "feature" that an RS or RS Pro can finish a race when the sensor harness comes unplugged or the sensor system is compromised during a run and still allowing the racer to finish his/her race is a big one in our eyes.

The alpha test group in Tekin is testing the corrected software now for performance and function. 212 will be posted on the site for download until the corrected update software(223) is posted.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:07 AM
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Not to muddy the waters any but:

I downloaded '222' and ran it in my 'stock' [non-boosted] 17.5 TC Saturday
althou certianly not the fastest at our track I am mid-pack at best

I noticed a definite better feel for throttle & brakes [even drag brakes felt better]

I believe TEKIN is on the right track,

Also my Thankx to Randy and the TEAM at Tekin for their 'on-line chat'
as a Hobby SHop owner it is a GREAT asset to have their wisdom & experience on hand at a moments notice.
Thankx, Bill



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Old 02-16-2012, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Wall Banger View Post
News flash 222 is not Roar approved and if it was not for cry babies 222 would still be up.

Tekin is trying to correct a mistake and anyone still complains. One member has over 40 post about the brakes. You win
I'm not the only member. pretty much everyone running tc boosted had this problem btw. i was just the only one to post about it, and their were a good 20+ people running tekin in boosted in our local club alone.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:58 AM
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For offroad the 222 brakes are dialed! Big improvement.
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
I'm not the only member. pretty much everyone running tc boosted had this problem btw. i was just the only one to post about it, and their were a good 20+ people running tekin in boosted in our local club alone.
I had zero issues with brakes in boosted TC at the snowbirds with 222.

I personally thing the brakes are one of the most improved aspects of this new software. They dont just lock up the wheels and make the car slide or not work at all. The come on smooth and slow the car down in a controlable manner. IMO if these are not enough brakes for someone they are driving the car incorrectly and using too much brakes.

And everyone else that was running it had no issues either. I gave my exact setup to Hayato (former 2wd world champ and runner up at the last ISTC worlds) and he was super happy with it. Happy enough to run me over from behind at the start of the main.

We ran it in modified and boosted on Saturday and again zero issues. Brakes could strip the spur gear if we turned it up all the way. But I choose to run 100 percent brakes on the speedo and 60 on the endpoints on my radio and that is a perfect amount for me. I cant imagine needing 100 percent in any circumstances.

Last edited by L.Fairtrace; 02-16-2012 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
There's no real reason to shrink wrap the posts. They're not likely ever going to come in contact with each ohter. It won't ruin the esc, worst case it runs hotter than non soldered posts. This mind you would only be noticed if you had the posts facing in the direction of air flow in the first place(which most don't).
Thanks for the fast response Randy. It's good to know that I'm more than likely no going to hurt the little guy

The reason I've got them shrink wrapped is that it's not the posts coming in contact I'm worried about, right on top of the posts are the barrels (female ends) of the batter wires, they're pretty close together being that they're 3.5mm - 4mm outside diamete. The LiPo's I got have wires rather than built in female bullets so I attached female bullets on the ends of the wires and males bullet ends on the ESC posts. rather than plugging an ESC wire into the battery, I'm plugging a battery wire into the ESC... Hope that clarifies the clearance issue. Thanks again for the quick response
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Happy enough to run me over from behind at the start of the main.
Thats awesome!

EA
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:11 AM
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Randy...is there any way to tell with out hooking the ESC up to a PC to see if someone is using 222 over 212? Do the LEDs light up in a different way with 222? We have a series race in a week and we use ROAR rules so I just wanted to be able to tell before the FEAR hits the streets.....Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Randy...is there any way to tell with out hooking the ESC up to a PC to see if someone is using 222 over 212? Do the LEDs light up in a different way with 222? We have a series race in a week and we use ROAR rules so I just wanted to be able to tell before the FEAR hits the streets.....Thanks.
Kevin,

There are two flashing sequences in 222 from what I understood. One is a quick set method (Profile 1) that flashes the same as previous 212 software. The other is a locked out method using a hotwire for big races where the middle 3 leds flash.

So to answer your question no there is not without hooking it up...at least not that I know of from all the testing I did with it. Randy can correct me if I am wrong though.

EA
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Kevin,

There are two flashing sequences in 222 from what I understood. One is a quick set method (Profile 1) that flashes the same as previous 212 software. The other is a locked out method using a hotwire for big races where the middle 3 leds flash.

So to answer your question no there is not without hooking it up...at least not that I know of from all the testing I did with it. Randy can correct me if I am wrong though.

EA
Suggestion for Tekin: Rather than just a steady blink, blink the version number.

You could blink N times for each digit with a pause in between, and a longer pause before repeating. Or maybe light up LED1 and blink the first digit, then light up LED2 and blink the second digit, etc, with some special blink before repeating.

Just throwing it out there.

-Mike
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:45 PM
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I kinda like the idea of a sensorless lockout for testing. Any chance of making that a selectable feature in the future?
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Randy...is there any way to tell with out hooking the ESC up to a PC to see if someone is using 222 over 212? Do the LEDs light up in a different way with 222? We have a series race in a week and we use ROAR rules so I just wanted to be able to tell before the FEAR hits the streets.....Thanks.
Sort of, If they're using 222 and in lockout blinky mode led's 345 will flash. If they're not in lock out but ARE in blinky it will blink 3 and 5 just like 212.

You can audibly hear the difference between 212 and 222 if you hit the brakes on the car. But physically, no difference other than the new lock out blinky mode.
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Sort of, If they're using 222 and in lockout blinky mode led's 345 will flash. If they're not in lock out but ARE in blinky it will blink 3 and 5 just like 212.

You can audibly hear the difference between 212 and 222 if you hit the brakes on the car. But physically, no difference other than the new lock out blinky mode.
Ok thanks Randy and EA for the info.....
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
I had zero issues with brakes in boosted TC at the snowbirds with 222.

I personally thing the brakes are one of the most improved aspects of this new software. They dont just lock up the wheels and make the car slide or not work at all. The come on smooth and slow the car down in a controlable manner. IMO if these are not enough brakes for someone they are driving the car incorrectly and using too much brakes.

And everyone else that was running it had no issues either. I gave my exact setup to Hayato (former 2wd world champ and runner up at the last ISTC worlds) and he was super happy with it. Happy enough to run me over from behind at the start of the main.

We ran it in modified and boosted on Saturday and again zero issues. Brakes could strip the spur gear if we turned it up all the way. But I choose to run 100 percent brakes on the speedo and 60 on the endpoints on my radio and that is a perfect amount for me. I cant imagine needing 100 percent in any circumstances.
Well i was running 100/100 17.5t 0 Deg timing and could not lock up the tires and the car just took forever to slow down. i was being underbroke considerably at the end of the straight into the chicane.

every other corner was fine. but it was just annoying to not have that extra braking power if i ever needed it. and that the fact i got hit at the end of the straight many times from having to break earlier. it was noticeable how much earlier i was slowing down hitting full breaks everytime..
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:00 PM
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Hey EskimoGangsta,

Not sure if this will help,But what kind of radio do yo have? maybe you need to Adj your EPA setting's on your Radio try maxing out the EPA setting as an experiment I wont hurt to try.

Hope this helps



Originally Posted by EskimoGangsta View Post
Well i was running 100/100 17.5t 0 Deg timing and could not lock up the tires and the car just took forever to slow down. i was being underbroke considerably at the end of the straight into the chicane.

every other corner was fine. but it was just annoying to not have that extra braking power if i ever needed it. and that the fact i got hit at the end of the straight many times from having to break earlier. it was noticeable how much earlier i was slowing down hitting full breaks everytime..
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