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Old 02-12-2012, 12:33 PM   #21886
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
I have been running a version of this software for about 2 months now and I have found the brakes to be more than adequate in blinky/boosted and mod

Last night we were messing around with Hanulecs car in Modified with a 4.0 and boost.

He set the rpm range at like 30k-70k I believe and the car was way driveable. With a little tweaking I think it could be great in modified too.

And again no issues with braking. With the brakes turned up all the way it would of stripped the spur gear.


I think one problem is people rely too heavy on the brakes. There are other ways to drive a car other than driving it into the apex and slamming the brakes.
Like you said i never use full brakes and usually have mine at 65% and still cant use full. but then with 222 i had 100/100 and i was being underbraked like no tomorrow on this super high traction track
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:49 PM   #21887
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ESC set to 80% with 17.5 boosted and the car has heaps of brakes. Have had to turn it down on the EPA to fine tune it... really like how smooth the car is now. Motor is a D3 FDR @ 6.0..
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:57 PM   #21888
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ESC set to 80% with 17.5 boosted and the car has heaps of brakes. Have had to turn it down on the EPA to fine tune it... really like how smooth the car is now. Motor is a D3 FDR @ 6.0..
It's really weird. On 212 i used 65% And had tones of brakes. 222 i just had nothing. I was on a super super high tac indoor carpet.

17.5 boosted D3 motor (only 8 race weekend on it) FDR @ 5.3 100% esc brakes and Transmitter set to 100% with the softest brakes i've ever had.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #21889
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Just loaded the new software on my windows 7 64 bit system with no problems. Anyone have a good setup for 17.5 boosted touring car on 120 foot straight on asphalt?
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:41 PM   #21890
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Has anyone had this problem before?

My tekin stopped working after a lightly hit a pipe. I brought into the pits and then it started getting really hot and smoking! It got so hot that one of the gold posts came off the esc.

Just my luck, I was starting to get the hang of running my buggy too. Fail.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:14 PM   #21891
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Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
This really sucks. The throttle is like an on/off switch. I should have just left the 212 in. So much for the trophy race!!!
I have 5 Tekins to reprogram back to 212. WTF
Did you put all of your same settings from 212 in? You should feel the difference between 212 and 222.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:29 PM   #21892
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Sometimes I wonder if I'm living in an alternate universe than some people on RCtech.

Yup. 222 is SO much smoother than 212. This is gonna keep me from buying any more blue product for a while.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:39 PM   #21893
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I'm not understanding the people saying the brakes are weaker with 222 than with 212. I put the same settings in as I had with 212, and the drag brake feels almost twice as strong and will the brakes at 100% the brakes will lock all for Durango wheels instantly!
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:56 PM   #21894
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Tried the v222 Software yesterday (TC, 10.5 Boosted, Outdoor asphalt) and provided the smoothest operation I've felt in an ESC. No problems with breaking power. Car was a tad slower with identical Timing Tab inputs (Boost, Turbo, etc) carry over from v212. Changed back to v212 to compete vs. use the day to test at points series race. Looking forward to a testing day to dial in the new software and enjoy it's new attributes. Are the timing settings identical to v212 incraments?
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:26 PM   #21895
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PROPS TO TEKIN!!!! Best version yet, 222 rocks.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:01 PM   #21896
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this may be a dumb Q. what is the differance between the EXE file and the ZIP file ? what one should I use for Windows 7
Thanks
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:43 PM   #21897
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I am using a Tekin RS in my 12th scale and would like to remove the power switch (since the one for my booster is the one that actually works, and also because the switch got destroyed when someone t-boned me). Is this as simple as cutting off the switch and soldering the wires together?
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:53 PM   #21898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I am using a Tekin RS in my 12th scale and would like to remove the power switch (since the one for my booster is the one that actually works, and also because the switch got destroyed when someone t-boned me). Is this as simple as cutting off the switch and soldering the wires together?
If you your booster switch to turn everything on, and don't use the LVC on your RS, it's as simple as cutting off the switch and NOT connecting them.

If you solder the wires together, the RS will be on whenever the battery is connected, even if it doesn't arm.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:02 PM   #21899
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this may be a dumb Q. what is the differance between the EXE file and the ZIP file ? what one should I use for Windows 7
Thanks
Exe is a ready to run file as the zip is compressed to save from dl so much. but after downloading you need to unzip it and run the exe file. it's fairly simple. both the same and the software is so small, if you have highspeed just dl exe
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:04 PM   #21900
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this may be a dumb Q. what is the differance between the EXE file and the ZIP file ? what one should I use for Windows 7
Thanks
I ran the .exe file and it didn't take long at all. I ran it in windows 7 64 bit.
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