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Old 12-23-2011, 03:37 AM   #21616
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
I haven't used a Novak Ballistic, and it has been some time since I've run Tekin, but this is what I would do:

Current limit: 100 / Off (No need to lower this for 17.5T)
Start RPM: 3k-5k
End RPM: 12k-15k
Boost: 50-55
Turbo: 10-15
Turbo delay: 0.15-0.2
Timing Advance: 100

I will much rather have more boost than more turbo. When you let off the throttle coming from full throttle, with high turbo it will feel like your car has a lot of drag brake. And in the in-field, if you hit full throttle, you can easily miss the apex.

With the timing on the boost instead, it should be a lot more smooth. And with the bigger range, it will be even smoother. And remember: Smooth is fast!

The turbo is mainly for the straight, so IMO no need for it to kick in as soon as you hit full throttle. Let the motor use it torque a little, and then use the turbo. So delay of 0.2 is fine on most tracks (IMO).

Timing advance should only kick in when the sensors are gone, but I have heard some people feeling a difference even when the sensors are functional. I have always used 100 though.
THX! Great I will test that!
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Old 12-25-2011, 11:28 AM   #21617
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Could someone please suggest a setup for 1s lipo 12th scale, on a tight road course, 17.5, with no timing rules?

I just dont understand what the timing advance slider is all about in the custom profiles????? The team driver setups do not list this setting????

Right now Im on tp2.

Thanks!
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:45 PM   #21618
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Originally Posted by Show871 View Post
Could someone please suggest a setup for 1s lipo 12th scale, on a tight road course, 17.5, with no timing rules?

I just dont understand what the timing advance slider is all about in the custom profiles????? The team driver setups do not list this setting????

Right now Im on tp2.

Thanks!
On the Setup tab set Timing Profile to 1. This puts the esc in blinky mode for no timing racing. The Timing tab settings will disappear. Everything else adjust like you would for a timing class.
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Old 12-25-2011, 03:47 PM   #21619
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Merry Christmas team Tekin!
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:55 AM   #21620
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Originally Posted by dark_luna View Post
THX! Great I will test that!
Let me know how it goes! :-)
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:55 AM   #21621
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Will the new software be available before DHI Cup in January?
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:26 AM   #21622
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Hello all, new to the forum and also new to the brushless system

I am currently running a 13.5 MMM SP motor on a tekin RS pro for 1/10 TC. Was wondering what would be a good starting gear ratio for 13.5 boosted.

Also is it true that I should not run anymore than 64 degrees total of timing advance? and is the ballend timing on the MMM calibrated to the software timing? ie. if I am running 11 degrees on the motor - then I shouldn't run more than 53 degrees on software

thanks for the help
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:26 AM   #21623
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Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
Hello all, new to the forum and also new to the brushless system

I am currently running a 13.5 MMM SP motor on a tekin RS pro for 1/10 TC. Was wondering what would be a good starting gear ratio for 13.5 boosted.

Also is it true that I should not run anymore than 64 degrees total of timing advance? and is the ballend timing on the MMM calibrated to the software timing? ie. if I am running 11 degrees on the motor - then I shouldn't run more than 53 degrees on software

thanks for the help
Start with 7.2-7.4. The tekin knows nothing about motors, so it's up to you (or someone else) to figure out what config works the best. Start conservatively, and temp often while you ramp up the timing. It's not difficult; just don't try for the hero setting right off the bat :-)

See the tekin tech support docs - there's info there on how to tune you speedo.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:23 AM   #21624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
Hello all, new to the forum and also new to the brushless system

I am currently running a 13.5 MMM SP motor on a tekin RS pro for 1/10 TC. Was wondering what would be a good starting gear ratio for 13.5 boosted.

Also is it true that I should not run anymore than 64 degrees total of timing advance? and is the ballend timing on the MMM calibrated to the software timing? ie. if I am running 11 degrees on the motor - then I shouldn't run more than 53 degrees on software

thanks for the help
These settings will get you in the ball park safely and from there you can go up if temps allow

Current limit: Off
Start RPM: 5k
End RPM: 18k
Boost: 50
Turbo: 12
Turbo delay: 0.1
Timing Advance: 100
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:55 PM   #21625
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Guys, what FDR to run with 11.5t? And what's a good and safe starting setup for 11.5? I'm running an Orion motor on medium size asphalt track.

Thanks
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:16 AM   #21626
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Originally Posted by Wilson Picaldy View Post
Guys, what FDR to run with 11.5t? And what's a good and safe starting setup for 11.5? I'm running an Orion motor on medium size asphalt track.

Thanks
Need a LOT more info than that. Dirt? Carpet? Asphalt? Drift? 4wd Sedan? 2wd buggy? 4wd SCT? Rubber tire? Foams?
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:36 AM   #21627
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Need a LOT more info than that. Dirt? Carpet? Asphalt? Drift? 4wd Sedan? 2wd buggy? 4wd SCT? Rubber tire? Foams?
I forgot to mention that, running 1/10 TC with rubber tire on medium size asphalt track with medium to high traction
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:30 PM   #21628
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Any tips on removing solder from the posts? Putting the RS in a new car so I have to re-do the wiring. Tried some solder wick but it is not doing a great job of getting off all the solder.
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:33 PM   #21629
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Any tips on removing solder from the posts? Putting the RS in a new car so I have to re-do the wiring. Tried some solder wick but it is not doing a great job of getting off all the solder.
Pick up a solder sucker from Radio Shack, or try wiping the posts on a wet sponge.
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:35 PM   #21630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan View Post
Any tips on removing solder from the posts? Putting the RS in a new car so I have to re-do the wiring. Tried some solder wick but it is not doing a great job of getting off all the solder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Pick up a solder sucker from Radio Shack, or try wiping the posts on a wet sponge.

Solder sucker works well for board type work, I wouldn't say it would be my first choice here tho. A damp sponge would work well tho.

A wick should work too. The only thing with the wick would be potentially overheating the post. To get the wick to work properly lay some wick on the post and heat thru the wick, when done right it should wick up the solder, when full lay a new piece of wick down and repeat.
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