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Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored

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Old 12-10-2011, 06:31 PM
  #21406  
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Had a mishap today when I was trying a new battery from another racer and not seeing that the battery terminals were reversed and plug in the speedo. The wire unsolder itself, so I resoldered it back on and the unit seems to be working. Would it be best to send it in to have it repaired or just run it till it quites?
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Friulimotosport View Post
Had a mishap today when I was trying a new battery from another racer and not seeing that the battery terminals were reversed and plug in the speedo. The wire unsolder itself, so I resoldered it back on and the unit seems to be working. Would it be best to send it in to have it repaired or just run it till it quites?
I've seen this happen before ... and I think you should be ok if the speedo powered back up. I would put on a new cap though to be safe. I believe that since the wire unsoldered itself, that took the brunt of the mistake. I think you'd be worse off if it didn't unsolder. I'd run it till it quits which I don't think it will.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:45 PM
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is the rs just for 1 cell use? whats the different between the rs and the rs pro? i want to get a new tekin esc to use in on road 13.5 boosted class with my cyclone tc
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:40 PM
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Both the RS and RS Pro can be used from 1s to 3s. Using 1s requires the use of a receiver pack or rx booster.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:08 AM
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so the difference basically is just the rs pro can handle lower turn motors than the rs?
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
so the difference basically is just the rs pro can handle lower turn motors than the rs?
You got it !!
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
my damn hobbywing just blew on me. you buy cheap you buy twice is so true. i am seriously considering a tekin RS pro, but whats puts me off all ESCs nowadays is the information on the website, they dont list everything i want to know. like on the tekin website, there is only 1 page showing the RS and RSpro together, with basic specs. i wished they would have one complete page for the RS, and another for the RS pro, with ALL the info on them, like info about boost and turbo also. What is the weight of the RS pro without wires ?
I run both RS pro and HW 120A and in fairness the HW is a very good speedo, then if you do not look after ANY speedo properly, it will blow.
Go to the HW thread and talk to Angelo about your speedo, he might be able to help.
Regarding a RS or RSpro, no problems to report, most of our racers use them here in variable timing and 10.5t, but next season the class is going blinky
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:12 PM
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Default rs pro problem

Having a strange issue with my pro with 1s/17.5 blinky.
The motor will randomly not get full throttle (although I am at 100% on the trigger) and the esc is blinking.
I have replaced the sensor wire with a known good one and the sensor board in the speed passion motor is a brand new green (+30) board.
1s
17.5 "blinky mode"profile.
Fully charged 5000 mh pack.
tq racing booster
Throttle epa set from 100 to 120% (just to try things out).
esc re flashed with 212 software. All parameters reset.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Any ideas?
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:30 PM
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Well I have just changed the settings to our RSpro to "Blinky" but not raced them yet, what is the proper sequence of lights on the speedo?

So far i got lots of fast centre lights flashing then every 3/4 seconds, light one (I think) flashes. Is this the right way?

Cheers
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
Having a strange issue with my pro with 1s/17.5 blinky.
The motor will randomly not get full throttle (although I am at 100% on the trigger) and the esc is blinking.
I have replaced the sensor wire with a known good one and the sensor board in the speed passion motor is a brand new green (+30) board.
1s
17.5 "blinky mode"profile.
Fully charged 5000 mh pack.
tq racing booster
Throttle epa set from 100 to 120% (just to try things out).
esc re flashed with 212 software. All parameters reset.


Any ideas?
Definitely looks like a sensor problem. I'd try these things in this order:

1) Another new sensor wire (even thought you tried another)
2) A completely different motor (even though you changed the sensor board)
3) Make sure all the pins on the sensor ports on the ESC are straight and that the plug opening is clean
4) If all else fails, the sensor on the ESC may have gone bad and you'll have to send it in for repair
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Definitely looks like a sensor problem. I'd try these things in this order:

1) Another new sensor wire (even thought you tried another)
2) A completely different motor (even though you changed the sensor board)
3) Make sure all the pins on the sensor ports on the ESC are straight and that the plug opening is clean
4) If all else fails, the sensor on the ESC may have gone bad and you'll have to send it in for repair
Tried this.
Nib sensor wire
Different rx/tx (3pks)
Different sensor board in the sp motor.
Re-float of all solder joints.
Cleaned sensor wire port on esc.
Not any good..

It's for sure a sensor problem as if I run it without the wire hooked up it will run at the same (lower) rpm as to when the issue occurs.

It will only occasionally do this.I had to cycle the throttle about 10 times before the vid. was shot. But once in a while it will happen when I 1st plug it in or when I go full brake (very random). When it happens the only way to get it unstuck is a quick stab of the brake or a reset of power.
Tried many epa settings on both the Airtr.and Futaba Tx's to no avail.

Only thing left is another motor..but I only have a old novak ss 21.5.
Guess I can give it a shot before I send out my esc.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:35 AM
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Did you try running the ESC with a recieverpack?
From what i have heard and read it could also be that the ESC won't get enough voltage and is switching back to sensorless mode

regards Roy
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Did you try running the ESC with a recieverpack?
From what i have heard and read it could also be that the ESC won't get enough voltage and is switching back to sensorless mode

regards Roy
Hmm, I did not.
Guess its worth a try.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
Tried this.
Nib sensor wire
Different rx/tx (3pks)
Different sensor board in the sp motor.
Re-float of all solder joints.
Cleaned sensor wire port on esc.
Not any good..

It's for sure a sensor problem as if I run it without the wire hooked up it will run at the same (lower) rpm as to when the issue occurs.

It will only occasionally do this.I had to cycle the throttle about 10 times before the vid. was shot. But once in a while it will happen when I 1st plug it in or when I go full brake (very random). When it happens the only way to get it unstuck is a quick stab of the brake or a reset of power.
Tried many epa settings on both the Airtr.and Futaba Tx's to no avail.

Only thing left is another motor..but I only have a old novak ss 21.5.
Guess I can give it a shot before I send out my esc.

Thanks for the help.
I have seen the sensor on the ESC go out before, but it usually isn't an intermittent problem like yours.

I forgot you are using a 1-cell. Try removing the booster/receiver pack and plugging in a 2-cell lipo to see if that fixes the problem.

Also, just as a disclaimer, I've seen a lot of motors blow up from free revving on the bench like that.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:30 AM
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Yeah you're losing the sensors off and on.

First thing is to try a 2s supply pack. This eliminates the possibility of the sensors not getting enough voltage under a load. Boosters or a rx pack that can't sustain the load will cause this issue.

Next is the motor since you've tried harness's,etc.

If you have even a single sensor going in and out this will be the result.
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