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Old 11-21-2011, 06:18 PM   #21331
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I have a problem with my RS and want to see if there is anything I can do. I was racing oval 13.5 1s on Saturday and bumped a wall. Now when I say bump I mean a slight bump nothing to bad. Right after the him my car shut down. After taking it over to the pit and playing around with it this is what I found.
When I turn it on the ESC lights up as should but there is no chime that all is good. I get no motor response at all but the lights are showing that all is well and ramp up on throttle and so solid with brake, but nothing happens. The servo works and volt booster shows that it is working. I also changed the motor and rx and still nothing. I am guessing my RS is gone but am hoping someone might know how to revive it.
BTW, I also tried to rebind and recalibrate my esc with no result.
I have the same problem when my receiver pack gets low. Try borrowing a charged receiver pack and plug it into the speedo. If it works again, the problem is with your booster. Somehow the voltage is still high enough to run your receiver but the Tekin is in low voltage protection mode. Another trick is to connect a 2S battery pack to the Tekin and it should work normally.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:28 PM   #21332
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hey guys, I have been having a problem and wanted to know if anybody had any ideas, I have been running a 6.5 with boost in 12th scale for about a week now and the positive battery lead keeps coming undone from the bullet plug. The confusion for me is this, the speed control itself isnt getting very hot, 3 LED's at the most i have gotten so far, today i switched the car back to 13.5 boosted and the battery stopped coming undone, but the speedo is getting unusually hot for a 13.5, like 4 LED's after a 6 minute run using Mike Dumas's setup from 2011 snowbirds. any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
I had the same problem in modified due to too much initial timing. the speedo and motor never really got all that hot but the wires still kept coming unsoldered. Is the same problem occurring with other battery packs? I ask this because I also had a pack that had a bad connection internally which caused the terminal to overheat. Thankfully I don't have these issues anymore.
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:57 PM   #21333
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Default Tekin RS Pro Setup for Touring Mod

Hi guys,
here is the Tekin RS Pro setup I used this weekend at the Australian Nationals in modified. It was very quick (clocked at 110kph with a speed gun), came of at a reasonable temperature and never missed a beat all 4 days.
In fact I had some people not believing I was using a Tekin combo until I showed them.
I used a standard Tekin Redline 4.5 motor with the standard 13mm rotor.
The track was an old gas track so was medium to large size. It had two straights, one being approx 70mtr and the other approx 40mtr.

Give it a try.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf WCMRC 20.11.11 Nationals Touring Mod Tekin Setup.PDF (283.2 KB, 226 views)
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:18 PM   #21334
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
I had the same problem in modified due to too much initial timing. the speedo and motor never really got all that hot but the wires still kept coming unsoldered. Is the same problem occurring with other battery packs? I ask this because I also had a pack that had a bad connection internally which caused the terminal to overheat. Thankfully I don't have these issues anymore.
Yes it happens with different packs, i tried three different ones. a 50c, 55c and a 65c and all did the same exact thing. I was also thinking that also, the next time i will be at the track for some test and tune is wednesday so i think im going to have to try all of these things until i stop having issues. I love the support on this thread, its really great! No sarcasm there. Its great to post on here and get help from about 7 different people. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:51 PM   #21335
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COLD AS ICE. If you find out what the problem is please post cause I'm having the same issue. It started with a 5.5 so I put a 13.5 in and same problem so I put thicker wires on and same problem all with no timing so I'm out of ideas.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:15 PM   #21336
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wires coming un soldered can also be the sign of a weak rotor in the motor you are using.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #21337
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wires coming un soldered can also be the sign of a weak rotor in the motor you are using.
Randy, I had that happen to me too but Doesn't that occur at the motor terminals rather than the battery when the rotor degausses? I may be wrong.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:16 PM   #21338
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Randy, I had that happen to me too but Doesn't that occur at the motor terminals rather than the battery when the rotor degausses? I may be wrong.
When you demagnetize a rotor the current has a near free pass through the windings. You are pulling very large currents at all times, so any solder joint is at risk.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:08 AM   #21339
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Hi,

I run 1s WGT 10.5 boosted. I have a tekin RS pro and a GM 10.5 motor.
Would there be any benefit to the speed controller to run 2 capacitors?
It currently comes off about 39C after a run, would adding a second cap let it run cooler?

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Old 11-23-2011, 06:12 AM   #21340
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Originally Posted by chris_blakey View Post
Hi,

I run 1s WGT 10.5 boosted. I have a tekin RS pro and a GM 10.5 motor.
Would there be any benefit to the speed controller to run 2 capacitors?
It currently comes off about 39C after a run, would adding a second cap let it run cooler?

Cheers
Chris
Maybe a little if any. Your temp is still on the cool side, start worrying when it reaches 51-52C.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:53 AM   #21341
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
Randy, I had that happen to me too but Doesn't that occur at the motor terminals rather than the battery when the rotor degausses? I may be wrong.
In general yes but I've seen the battery lead come off with a rotor around 1000 or so. It's something to consider.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:19 AM   #21342
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Due to the lower voltage of 1/12th is it possible to run mod with a regular rs?
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:37 AM   #21343
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Originally Posted by likeakid View Post
Due to the lower voltage of 1/12th is it possible to run mod with a regular rs?
Yes, many of us have been doing that for a while.
But not due to the lower voltage, which actually is not a benefit, it's more due to the lower loads of such a lightweight car.

Use TQ 13g wire with 2 capacitors, and you should be fine.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:01 PM   #21344
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Default TQ 16 gauge

Hey Guys,
Is using TQ 16 gauge wire for the connection from the battery to the esc good enough or should I go bigger?
Thanks and God Bless
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:02 PM   #21345
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Hey Guys,
Is using TQ 16 gauge wire for the connection from the battery to the esc good enough or should I go bigger?
Thanks and God Bless
What motor? For 17.5 and 13.5, it should be good enough.
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